Russell griffiths

My friend did it, when he fenced it hr used rusty angle iron as posts and put them in all wonky then put rusty chain link on it to pretend it had been there for years.

It’s funny the stupid things you think about, but it is bothering me the fact of having a stupid coloured house for a year before I clad it.

Ooh get you f####g show off.

Well one things for certain, its a pretty colour ??

Just trying to work out a way to sit the beams in without having to concrete just a small portion, as trying to avoid a dry joint in the concrete. I want to be able to concrete all the way up to ffl in one pour with the beams in place. C mon give us a pic, then I can work out if it’s worth the two hour drive.

How’s it going any pics im just trying to work out the best way to get this beam and block tied in to an icf wall.

You really have missed you vocation in life if NASA ever need another shuttle fixing type guy I would nominate you. I would have hacked it out with a blunt chisel and a club hammer ?⚒

It would cost exactly the same. If it had a washing machine discharge in to it, it would need 100mm underground pipe bedded in gravel and laid to the correct fall if it had a toilet discharge in to it exactly the same. You will still need to dig down to the level to find your main foul run so it doesn’t matter what you put down it it is the same spec. A foul drain. The only thing that isn’t a foul drain is rainwater.

So how much are they going to cost to re make ? would it be cheaper to alter the hole. Ive looked at it and I have a couple of ideas rattling around in my head to fix it.

That looks like good ground @Redoctober

On the topic of wooden huts ours was sitting on this lot. So after removing all that lot, I have just discovered another set of foundations which we have been told may have been from the conveyor belt on site ? so could be any sort of thickness, the last lot I removed was just over 400mm thick.

The red and blue battens are a grading system so it is easy to tell they comply with a certain British standard, you can still buy plain tanalised green battens, which will be fine for what you need and will be even cheaper.

Ooh er, that’s a big un

I suppose it’s the difference between your opinion of a finished slab and his. How is he planning on finishing it? does he care if you have to use 30 bags of self levelling compound on it before you fit your floor coverings as it will be a year later and he will just be a distant memory. I would want some some type of reassurance that his finish is good enough. If he has lots on it would be easy enough to show you some work he has recently done.

That would be a way to keep the population down @Ferdinand

How about a nice cobbled strip. 3 rows of blocks laid as a strip with a slight dish to act as a drain.

What you need to do is sit the hump into the surface not just on it, so dig a trench downwards and then fill it back up with the cold tar, this will use more materials but will in effect not have it just sitting on top can you not form a shallow drain in concrete by digging out a strip of drive and concreting back up to just under level with a slope left or right to catch the runoff and direct it to the side, you could paint it black if it looked a bit odd. Or it will probably fill with gravel that would still catch the run off and direct it away.

Is there a reason for the osb? Its a perfectly good product, but I would personally use a tongue and groove chipboard designed just for floors, you can get a product with a nice plastic coating that protects it when the plasterers are upstairs chucking crap everywhere. I don’t know what is available in France,

The problem you may find, imho, is your power floated floor , will not be perfectly level the guys doing it will be working to an acceptable tolerance this tolerance may be 5mm over a set length so in reality you perfectly flat floor may slope the wrong way?? without wanting to sound like a total t****r this is new technology to the average Neanderthal concrete gang over here and they are not very good at it. The only real way to get the falls you want is to set down the concrete floor. So in effect the floor level is lower by a certain amount and then this is then built up using a screed product to obtain the absolute spot on fall you need. If you you look at @Onoff thread on his bathroom he has just done the exact same job, providing a sloped area that falls straight to his drain. I spent many months in oz floor screeding, we used to set the concrete slab down by 35/50 mm and then screed up to that, you guys will need to make a former out of timber, although I have seen lads on here using a slab of insulation. I have been in a in a few places to fix cock ups, and when the shower was on the water ran out the bathroom door? water is a law unto itself it will get everywhere and anywhere. What are you thinking instead of tiles, one of the stick down vinyls, I have never seen one done that didn’t look like an old people’s home, joins in corners look rough and the amount of colours and styles is limited. Re think tiles. With regards layout they must need to know your toilet position so they can get these in place before the beam and block goes in, so that really should narrow down your shower location, when you know that you then need to decide if you want a central drain with all your TILES ?sloping to the centre or the drain in the wall like @Onoff or a linear drain running from side to side of the shower area. Easy innit.

I think a counter batten is beneficial in more ways than just moisture, plenty of airflow to dry out the boarding for the cost and time it takes to fit a counter batten I can’t see it being much cheaper to find chamfered battens

Are you making the whole frame on site ? if so stop messing about and go and get the big dewalt, build a cutting table with built in tape measure and length stops, i built our last place as stick built on site and you will need a dedicated cutting station for thousands of cuts.

If you buy a flip over like elu or dewalt you will also have a table saw, I sold my elu recently and it’s like I’ve had an arm removed. If you buy a second hand one you will sell it after at more or less what you pay for it. And just cut your i joist with a standard circular saw.

Still confused. If you have plasterboard and skim then isn’t that your fire proof layer. If it is because you are using timber shakes, then what are they saying the fire will start from outside and it is to stop the spread indoors. This is is hard to believe, you don’t live in Australia or California. Have you priced this cement board up? it generally comes in very small sheets so to cover a roof area could be very expensive. I think i would definitely look at some of the fire resistant osb.

https://mdfosb.com/en see if this works I’m a complete Luddite when it comes to computers