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About PeteTheSwede

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  1. PeteTheSwede

    Limiting floor temperature with smart heating controls

    So I went to the Grand Designs show at the NEC yesterday and spoke to all of the available UFH suppliers about this. A majority were a bit scared of setting up a wet UFH system under vinyl without a probe, and said that Amtico wouldn't honour the guarantee in this case. "What if the design parameters changed?". This does sound like a lack of confidence in their own ability to design the system, but that's what they said. A couple said it would be fine, particularly since the room I am putting it in is north facing. The consensus generally was to abandon Evohome and use one of the other zones systems available that do have a probe (polypipe do one). Even if these other systems don't have TRVs available (eg. Heatmiser) then the suggestion was the run the radiators off a manifold and control them that way. P
  2. PeteTheSwede

    Historic retrofilled foam cavity insulation - U value?

    Thanks - is that just for the 50mm of foam or the whole brick - foam -brick wall? I had read that pre-1970's retrofilled walls were unlikely to be better than 0.5 for the whole wall. Thanks again Peter
  3. Hi all My 1930s detached house has walls made of brick then a 50mm filled cavity and then brick again. The cavity has been filled with foam at some time in the past (don't know when or what with). I'm trying to work out the U value of the wall currently, so I can calculate the impact of adding external wall insulation. I've used various online calculators, but don't know what to choose for the foam. Can anyone suggest what the foam might actually be, assuming it was done some years ago? Extra points for suggesting an R or U value for 50mm 🙂 Thanks all Peter
  4. PeteTheSwede

    Limiting floor temperature with smart heating controls

    Evohome can control both radiators and UFH, but the thermostats are air temp sensing, yes. That's the issue I'm trying to resolve. The suggestion I had read elsewhere was that you might be able to put two thermostats "in series", in some sense. This might not be in a physical sense, but would mean that if either the air temp thermostat or the floor thermostat was triggered for that zone, then the heating would be cut. The Honeywell/Evohome website says this on the subject. "QUESTION / PROBLEM Describes the Question/Problem What floor probe is compatible with the evohome system for wet underfloor heating? ANSWER / SOLUTION Describes the answer or the required steps that resolve the issue A floor probe can be added to the evohome system for wet underfloor heating system but the manufacturer of the manifold can tell what type of probe floor is needed. "
  5. PeteTheSwede

    Limiting floor temperature with smart heating controls

    Thanks - at this point this is all theoretical and all has to be bought. Just trying to figure out a way of using Evohome (which I quite like) in this context.
  6. PeteTheSwede

    Limiting floor temperature with smart heating controls

    I did speak to technical support at Wunda this afternoon, and they suggested limiting the flow temperature, although they were talking about limiting it to between 35-40 degrees, as presumably the flow temperature doesn't translate directly to the temp of the floor covering. My concern would be whether limiting the floor temperature means I won't be able to heat the room sufficiently...
  7. Hi I'm looking at putting UFH into an extension as part of a major renovation, and also putting in something like Evohome or Tado for multizone heating control at the same time. I'm looking at putting amtico or similar in as the floor, which has a max floor temp of around 27/28 degrees. The issue seems to be that neither Evohome nor Tado have the ability to add floor probes in to measure the floor temp (as opposed to the air temp in that area) and therefore I'm concerned about cooking the floor. A bit of reading around suggests that you might be able to put an additional thermostat (such as this in series with the "smart" thermostat on the manifold, just to make sure the temp never goes above 27 degrees. Is this a workable approach? Has anyone else done this? If I have multiple UFH zones with vinyl floor, presumably I need a floor probe based thermostat for each zone? Thanks all Peter
  8. PeteTheSwede

    Laundry Chute thoughts?

    Thanks for the all the comments. The other half is keen on having all washing machines/dirty washing piled up in one room, and the only place we have space for that is the Utility room downstairs. Now that I think I am going to be able to do a straight vertical drop, I think you're right. The tube is more useful if you need to kink around corners and avoid snagging. A simple square plasterboard box with a fire proof access panel on the top will probably do. That's the kind of door the smartchute guys supply anyway.
  9. PeteTheSwede

    Laundry Chute thoughts?

    Washing machine and tumble dryer only fit in the utility sadly - no room upstairs. We are trying to contain clothes drying to the utility (using ceiling mounted drying rack). P
  10. PeteTheSwede

    Laundry Chute thoughts?

    The dirty washing currently gets lobbed down the stairs, and sits in a pile at the bottom. This way it can get thrown directly into a wash basket in the utility room... The airing cupboard is close to the bedrooms upstairs so is easy to get to. You obviously do sacrifice space in the airing cupboard, but that's only a 30cm square box in the airing cupboard, and still leaves enough of space i think. As for the utility room, I don't think it will take any more room than a pile of dirty washing would anyway.
  11. Hi all As part of a major renovation I'm thinking about including a laundry chute from the airing cupboard on the first floor into the ceiling of the utility room directly below. At this point the chute will empty into a laundry basket sitting on a worktop in the Utility. I've been looking at these guys The smart chute is a 25cm diameter flexible tube, and for £600 inc VAT they give you 2m of it, with a stainless steel to make the bit that sticks into the ceiling of the utility room a bit more attractive, and a 30 min fire rated door. The door isn't particularly attractive but it doesn't matter to me as it will be inside the airing cupboard. The chute needs to be boxed in in 9mm plasterboard for fire protection, up to 1m above the floor (to avoid small children climbing in) and can go through a 27cm hole in the floor. This currently seems doable but would be grateful if anyone had experience of this kind of thing and might point out something I've not considered. There's not much discussion on here about laundry chutes. Thanks in advance Peter
  12. PeteTheSwede

    3D Room planner

    I have been using, which is free, but I was paying to get it to output renders of what it would really look like. I have however just switched over to using Sketchup, which is more difficult but much more powerful. I've been using it in conjunction with a plugin called Enscape, which lets you see renders in realtime, and lets me put myself into the design using a virtual reality headset. Sketchup is free (download the Sketchup 2017 version - don't use the new online SketchupFree version, but enscape costs a monthly fee). Pete
  13. PeteTheSwede

    Cost of foul drainage vs non foul drainage

    ok thanks
  14. PeteTheSwede

    Cost of foul drainage vs non foul drainage

    Thanks all. Please excuse my ignorance. Not quite sure how I got the wrong end of that stick. Would it make a difference if we had a shower in with the toilet - would we need a different (larger) pipe? Thanks again Peter