Russell griffiths

Funny story about the local engineered timber company i walk in and talk to a bloke for half an hour, total tit didn’t like him at all so I thank him and move on thinking I won’t ever go back there. A month passes and I go to have a chat with a company a little bit further afield, as I walk in their office, guess who’s grinning at me from over his computer screen, yep mr arse hole. So it just dawned on me I can now go back to the first company as he doesn’t work there any more. ??

Don’t worry it’s all in my head in a big jumbled heap, I have designed these connectors a dozen times at 2.30 in the morning as I lay awake wondering how mad I must be to be doing this again, and thinking of my next project before this one even has a roof on.

This is on show in the main living room, so all sanded and varnished up.

Looking at @mvincentd post with his roof loadings if I give a run down of my roof buildup can anybody point me in the right direction as to the loading we should allow for in the design. Hope that makes sense. From the top down. Raised seam steel roof sheets 18mm osb 50x50batten 220x69 I joists 75mm service batten 19mm softwood ceiling i have left out vcl and roof membrane and insulation, also mvhr ducting in the service void. Any thoughts anybody.

I haven’t got building control sign off on this bit yet they have allowed me to submit a phased submission so I basically submit some drawings they approve them, I build it, I submit the next bit, they approve that bit and so on it sort of happened like this as I was keen to start work in the summer and didn’t have them all finished. Who was your supplier @joe90

I’m actually thinking of making them myself, but being rather busy I thought a nice stainless bracket would be nice. Achitect wording was GLUELAM CONNECTION BY OTHERS. i cant believe the local company who have absolutely hundreds of gluelam on the shelf don’t actually have any connection details.

Art noon, i have a fairly substantial gluelam beam going in the house to hold the roof up, this beam has 2 joins and 2 posts under the joins, has anybody found any good suppliers of joining plates i need to join the beams end to end with a post underneath the joins. The local gluelam supplier is less than helpful cheers russ.

Hi I have had a couple of different opinions what sort of slump did you specify with your icf pour. Two opinions one was 100mm the other 80mm. Any thoughts people. Cheers russ.

@Nickfromwales I would stop now, while you still have some credibility left. ???

I thought @D Walter was talking about a roof, do you need to go to such lengths for soundproofing of a floor

Not if it’s a roof, no services up there. All on the inside of the airtight layer in a service void.

Evening all i have had a couple of roof designs done by timber i joist companies, now both companies have specified that they have designed with these roof loads in mind. 0.8kn/m live load 0.6kn/m dead load do these loads look fairly standard, I spoke with one company and said I wanted the best they could offer and was willing to pay more to close the joist spacing up to provide a :better roof: two blokes looked at me like I was a nutter and said it far exceeded any spec needed and to stop worrying as it was all well inside deflection criteria. Anybody know what sort of load was specific to their roof for your information my roof is mono pitch at 15 degrees.

Have you bought them yet? i changed my easy joists to i joist to make insulation easier.

Just a thought should you not put this job on hold until you 100% sort out the joist cock up if for any reason you end up planting a plywood stiffener on to your short joists you may need to use a wider hanger to take the wider joist i would sort out one problem before you have to redo stuff.

Counter sink with a 40mm spade bit and fit a 40mm washer to spread the load you are only countersinking the ones in the way so might only be a hand full.

I’m sure that if they collect them and reconfigured the ends and re deliver you may only be out of pocket for a few hundred. Get it sorted. Move on. Onwards and upwards.

Looking at the original picture of the joist end I think they could be changed if you removed the solid blocking at the end and had larger blocking added then had them add new gang nail plates, and then a plywood stiffener to the side that should be adequate

These steps are the nuts

All I would add is buy good fittings plasson is my preferred supplier, thanks to @PeterW I think

Yep step ladder dont buy a crap diy version solid yellow fibreglass version, should spend at least £80 to get a good pair.

Is that a standard detail ? i thought the hanger worked by having full contact. Anybody.

Is that a photo angle thing, is the pole plate the same depth as the joist.

Only if you have money to burn. When you come to a window you cut a block, the off cut goes in the next row, if you cut it out after you will end up with lots of random sized pieces with no where to put them. Have you been to see any icf builds? Go and have a look, an hour on somebody’s site will answer a lot of questions we are in Gloucestershire and up at first floor level if your interested.

Agree with everyone Give that a wide berth. ???

Look up FOX blocks on YouTube, they seam to have more vids than anybody else. You can do it a few ways you put your pole plate,ledger board, rim joist, call it what you like, in position, screwed to the wall with temporary fixings, mark out your joist layout, work out where your fixing bolts go and drill holes in pole plate, remove pole plate and cut a large hole in your icf in the location of the bolts, fit a membrane of some description to the back of the timber, put timber back up with bolts projecting into the holes you cut, when you pour your concrete it will flow into the holes you cut and surround the bolts, it will end up with concrete pads projecting out to the back of the timber adding the support you wouldn’t get from the insulation layer. I will be doing mine in a months time, I will try and remember to take a few pics.