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Russell griffiths

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Everything posted by Russell griffiths

  1. Russell griffiths
    Grp roof on our current place, was trying to avoid doing this as I want to knock it down, but it decided to let go in a spectacular fashion on Boxing Day two years ago?? i did this with only the wife helping in very far from ideal conditions in January i think grp and all trims came to about £700.
  2. Russell griffiths
    Budget? £1500, new joists at 400mm 18 osb, torch on felt or my choice would be grp or corrugated steel sheets with no joins minimal fall needed, my last choice would be those bitumen sheets, keep them for the wood shed. Why can you not put a wall plate on top of walls with 150mm x50mm joists on top strapped down to internal wall face with steel strap, this way would create a 200mm deep facia that you could trim with the same metal trim and provide a nice finish.
  3. Russell griffiths
    As I’m working on my build with just me and a mate, and only 3days a week it is going to go up very slowly would you set it to just take a pic once an hour? or what do you think.
  4. Russell griffiths
    In the first pic these bars are not just pushed into the wet concrete, they are actually resin set into the foundation, and the concrete poured around them. Random placing of rebar was dictated by window openings and small pillars of wall between windows. Has your structural engineer not specifically asked for anything, i put 16mm bar at the sides of all openings and at 1200mm spaces, if a small pier 3-400mm I have 2 vertices as you can see in first pic. We have just just done our first pour at 2.7m above ffl and installed 12mm bar at 1m centres around the whole perimeter, but changed this out for 16 mm bar at window reveals for the second lift. Hope that makes sense.
  5. Russell griffiths
    @mvincentd could you not have a custom folded metal trim stuck down onto a cement board your pic didn’t actually show a door cill our last place had a vertical cement board under the cill that was rendered, we then had a horizontal cement board laid on a small fall, this was pushed under the door cill and on top of the waterproof pan, on top of the horizontal board was an exterior grade floor tile cut into a strip to match the width of the sticky out bit. No pics im afraid as my old laptop has gone boom. Can you take a pic and do a little sketch.
  6. Russell griffiths
    Without actually reading your links @recoveringacademic @newhome Can you put it into Luddite format for me what am I looking for ? Do they film all day and it gets compressed down, or am I after something that takes a still shot every 15-30-60 mins. Please avoid technical mumbo jumbo in your answers as you know I’m just a thicko cheers russ.
  7. Russell griffiths
    The fencing contractors by me are moaning that wooden tanalised posts aren’t lasting 5 years if it was my place and I was going to stay for 10 years it would be concrete posts.
  8. Russell griffiths
    I can just about work the camera on the phone so that’s a no.
  9. Russell griffiths
    I Thought I would do a little montage of pics, showing this summers progress.. another day on the sofa and I think I will go mad, I’ve been allowed to venture down to the garage for an hour, before I get summoned and told to be polite to more bloody relatives descending on us.
  10. Russell griffiths
    First point, do you need to go 7 foot, this is not standard and will mean buying non standard parts 9 foot posts are not standard and will cost more than 8 foots which are standard 6 foot feather edge boards are not standard, they are normally 5foot 6 inch to allow for a 6inch gravel board, or 5 foot to allow for a 1 foot concrete gravel board. I would go and find what is available and price it up, I would think going taller will add a reasonable amount to the overall cost. To build a good fence you should allow for a vertical short post that sits in the centre of the bay, this comes out from the ground and props up the lower arris rail, this prevents sagging, which will happen. I would soak the post bottoms in creasote, as the watery crap they use today is no comparison to the stuff your dad used
  11. Russell griffiths
    It will depend on any joins in the length of a sheet, if you can go from ridge to verge in one sheet then it shouldn’t be a problem.
  12. Russell griffiths
    I’m thinking of having a cement based board, made by a company called rockpanel, this will go on the vertical eps, then a layer of cement board on the horizontal eps with an exterior grade tile mounted on that to form an extra cill i had this on a previous house and it worked very well, unfortunately no photos as I have lost thousands when an old laptop bit the dust.
  13. Russell griffiths
    I think what he was inferring was the angle of the top of the eps, it should be cut at an angle down and out, all window rough openings should be like this as well this is to prevent any water Ingres from running inwards, everything should have a slight fall outwards, you then form a pan out of a waterproof membrane to fully seal up the opening.
  14. Russell griffiths
    If your somewhere remote it would probably pay to use materials that are available locally no point specifying something you can’t buy can you find some second hand double glazed windows and a door no point making a horrible environment just because it was cheap, window , door, pile of 4x2 , pallet of plywood, lots of rock wool insulation, electrics should be no problem for £3000
  15. Russell griffiths
    Hi, we are in Cirencester, building in icf, have a good company for topo, and lots of contacts for the tree clearance. Russ.
  16. Russell griffiths
    I would think you would need to bring out the bottom cord of the posi joist by 50mm to incorporate that 47mm wide channel then ply over the entire face and then plasterboard the thing you will need to pay attention to is the junction between the balcony glass and the angled piece going up the stairs, as bringing out the balcony bit will alter the size of the panes coming up the side of the stairs. You will need to pay attention to the quality of this work as the force exerted on the top of that glass as somebody leans on it will be fairly large.
  17. Russell griffiths
    I can’t see any building regs issue apart from the width.
  18. Russell griffiths
    Should this not have been done before the doors went in. I thought it would be standard practice to have a 5 degree slope on a cill with a cill pan installed and then seal window onto cill pan.
  19. Russell griffiths
    check that lot out,
  20. Russell griffiths
    Pictures.
  21. Russell griffiths
    Morning all I’m building in icf block, so main material is eps panels, I have a few gaps joins that I need to fill i have been using a standard gun grade low expansion foam supplied by the block manufacturers but I’m not happy with it, the surface of the foam is not very UV stable and becomes a bit dusty and brittle, I also don’t like the air bubbles in the foam. so is there a better product, I would be happy with no expansion just to be able to push into the gaps out of a gun or mix and push in with a spreading knife. What ya reckon peeps.
  22. Russell griffiths
    All the replies are slightly true but it all depends on what you are looking for in a batten a couple of years ago the standard was changed for battens and they had a new British standard number issued to make identifying them easier manufacturers started to put a dye in the preservative, however this didn’t stop ungraded battens getting dyed to make them look official if you want a batten that complies with the british standard you need to read the number on the side one of the reasons that they got a new British standard was worker safety, as roof trusses are now set at 600 centres this provides a large enough gap for a worker to fall through if the battens he was stood on failed, grading them and giving them a standard tried to prevent poor grade timber being used. As an employer who had a lad fall through a roof as a batten broke I looked into this a fair bit.
  23. Russell griffiths
    Cor blimey, my bloody head hurts now. Thanks all.
  24. Russell griffiths
    Morning all any body know how you convert the yank method of roof pitch to our degrees for example. The yanks would say it’s a 4/12 pitch, so it rises 4 inches in 12 inches of run so would 6/12 mean it rises 6 inches in 12 inches of run so I would think that is 45degrees is there an easy way to work this out, going yank to English, and English to yank i have 3 roofs all with different pitches so a 15 degree would be what ????? its probably dead simple to work out, but my little brain is so full of other minor crap I thought I would ask. Ta very much.
  25. Russell griffiths
    I would think that would be just your sips wall and roof panels and not a lot else, a 10x 15 house will cost you a lot more than that, you need to budget £1000 per m if you do it all yourself going upwards very quickly if you use a main contractor you can spend £2000 per m very easily
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