Russell griffiths

check that lot out,

Pictures.

Morning all I’m building in icf block, so main material is eps panels, I have a few gaps joins that I need to fill i have been using a standard gun grade low expansion foam supplied by the block manufacturers but I’m not happy with it, the surface of the foam is not very UV stable and becomes a bit dusty and brittle, I also don’t like the air bubbles in the foam. so is there a better product, I would be happy with no expansion just to be able to push into the gaps out of a gun or mix and push in with a spreading knife. What ya reckon peeps.

All the replies are slightly true but it all depends on what you are looking for in a batten a couple of years ago the standard was changed for battens and they had a new British standard number issued to make identifying them easier manufacturers started to put a dye in the preservative, however this didn’t stop ungraded battens getting dyed to make them look official if you want a batten that complies with the british standard you need to read the number on the side one of the reasons that they got a new British standard was worker safety, as roof trusses are now set at 600 centres this provides a large enough gap for a worker to fall through if the battens he was stood on failed, grading them and giving them a standard tried to prevent poor grade timber being used. As an employer who had a lad fall through a roof as a batten broke I looked into this a fair bit.

Cor blimey, my bloody head hurts now. Thanks all.

Morning all any body know how you convert the yank method of roof pitch to our degrees for example. The yanks would say it’s a 4/12 pitch, so it rises 4 inches in 12 inches of run so would 6/12 mean it rises 6 inches in 12 inches of run so I would think that is 45degrees is there an easy way to work this out, going yank to English, and English to yank i have 3 roofs all with different pitches so a 15 degree would be what ????? its probably dead simple to work out, but my little brain is so full of other minor crap I thought I would ask. Ta very much.

I would think that would be just your sips wall and roof panels and not a lot else, a 10x 15 house will cost you a lot more than that, you need to budget £1000 per m if you do it all yourself going upwards very quickly if you use a main contractor you can spend £2000 per m very easily

Well done. I do exactly the same £10 a fortnight gets me 4 wheelie bins, nod nod wink wink say no more.

You will find all the landfill taxes have put prices up the only way to do it cheaper is to separate it well 1 small skip for bricks, rubble £175 ish large bulk skip for lightweight stuff, plastic,wood insulation £250 ish get a metal drum and burn all the timber off cuts, make it look like your using it to warm your hands, keep it very small and you won’t get complaints. I opened an an account with a skip co and save about £25 per skip but it’s still a fortune

Do you have a picture ? what sort of budget ? is this a hobby or a business ? i have had a number of shed within shed things ranging from heaven to be in to my current one that I cringe at the thought of going down to it. Give us a bit more of a feel for what you need and I will chuck in my pennies worth. Russ.

That’s the ones.

I did a roof like that years ago, but with solid timber so I think I would treat the I joists like solid timber install blocking to both sides of the i joist then install those funny washers with the spikes on between the solid timber and i joist and bolt together cant remember what the washers are called, but they are meant to stop rotating between the timber. I cannot see the difference between an antic truss and what you have drawn up.

For me it’s the fact they are straight and true in the longer lengths, they also stay straight once fixed i have been looking at 225x48 in 4.8 m lengths and although they look very nice the thought of twisting and getting ceiling cracks is something I want to avoid

That sketch is missing a bit of info, I’m thinking that the junction of the two timbers is sitting on top of a wall plate fixed down to your wall, so as has been said the jji joist will need end blocking to stiffen it up and take the load, I would then treat it as a solid timber, so your rafter will need a birdsmouth over the wallplate and then you can use heavy gauge construction screws to secure them both together or coach bolt through the web stiffeners and through the solid rafter, we used to use a funny washer with spikes on it to stop rotating forces you will also have a nailable hold down plate on the side of the i joist. Has this not been covered by the roof designer ? my roof design has all the truss clips and joist hangers marked on it. Who are you getting your ijoists off, I’m just getting quotes and there a bit pricey compared to solid timber.

You won’t have a problem with abrasion unless you leave the pipe in place for too long, fit it and concrete in a week or two and no problems. I belive you get better heat transfer and a quicker reaction time if the pipe is in the middle of the slab. Tbh, at the end of the day it will be down to your structural engineer to design your slab according to you soil survey and site conditions.

I did think of many ways, scaffold boards fixed on the floor with props on top ??? in the end I opted to leave out the ufh and install it on top in an additional screed it was just the way I chose to do it, I’m sure there’s a thousand other ways, i was just happy that with all those screws I knew I had no pipes to hit. And after pouring yesterday I can confirm that those props need to be very very secure.

I would like to add a point about icf and a slab that has underfloor heating pipes in it @willbish and @Big Neil i have just done a pour for my icf walls and found the propping system for the walls required over 120 holes to be drilled into my floor to hold the props up. Make sure you have thought of a way to hold these props up if you have pipes installed

A bit vague but has anybody got any figures for metal roof covering, per metre, looking at various types from the basic steel zincalume farm shed stuff to a raised seam zinc only had one quote back in so far for an aluminium raised seam, looks like a good product with a very good life span warranty on the coating trying to get a feel for realistic price verses the inflated Cotswold salmon colour cords and yellow sock brigade that they think I am. Cheers russ.

To chuck another angle at it, I have recently spoken to two small developers who are both changing the way they build as they can’t get the trades to build how they are used to, for example bricklayers are calling all the shots in the south east at the moment demanding the highest pay I have ever seen. Would it be wise to build in block if you can’t get blocklayers timberframe has many plus points as well as minus points, if you are on a tight time frame I wouldn’t dream of blocks, too many things to hold you up, trades and the weather also you need to look at following trades each build method is different you need to do your own research to iron out the little bits im an ex bricklayer and I’m building in icf.

Have found a few but they all look a bit naff.

My last place we installed LOOSE PIN hinges, I found building the house I had the doors off and on half a dozen times with painting and floor fitting i will be fitting them again on this place, but I’m struggling to find nice ones at the moment, once again will probably buy a product abroad

Can you not top hang them to save buying all the hangers.

In my opinion Cullen make some fantastic products. I believe you would only need a packer if the hanger and joist did not extend down past the bottom flange if you read their Manuel carefully you will see each product needs to be used in strict accordance with its intended use.

I think the problem is, many may say they know what to do but doing it correctly is a different matter I think it will be down to you or your project manager to learn the correct way and watch it’s done to your satisfaction.

What a ridiculous way to handle things. I might start doing my own MOT just tell the old bil I signed it off my self.