Russell griffiths

@Nickfromwales I would stop now, while you still have some credibility left. ???

I thought @D Walter was talking about a roof, do you need to go to such lengths for soundproofing of a floor

Not if it’s a roof, no services up there. All on the inside of the airtight layer in a service void.

Evening all i have had a couple of roof designs done by timber i joist companies, now both companies have specified that they have designed with these roof loads in mind. 0.8kn/m live load 0.6kn/m dead load do these loads look fairly standard, I spoke with one company and said I wanted the best they could offer and was willing to pay more to close the joist spacing up to provide a :better roof: two blokes looked at me like I was a nutter and said it far exceeded any spec needed and to stop worrying as it was all well inside deflection criteria. Anybody know what sort of load was specific to their roof for your information my roof is mono pitch at 15 degrees.

Have you bought them yet? i changed my easy joists to i joist to make insulation easier.

Just a thought should you not put this job on hold until you 100% sort out the joist cock up if for any reason you end up planting a plywood stiffener on to your short joists you may need to use a wider hanger to take the wider joist i would sort out one problem before you have to redo stuff.

Counter sink with a 40mm spade bit and fit a 40mm washer to spread the load you are only countersinking the ones in the way so might only be a hand full.

I’m sure that if they collect them and reconfigured the ends and re deliver you may only be out of pocket for a few hundred. Get it sorted. Move on. Onwards and upwards.

Looking at the original picture of the joist end I think they could be changed if you removed the solid blocking at the end and had larger blocking added then had them add new gang nail plates, and then a plywood stiffener to the side that should be adequate

These steps are the nuts

All I would add is buy good fittings plasson is my preferred supplier, thanks to @PeterW I think

Yep step ladder dont buy a crap diy version solid yellow fibreglass version, should spend at least £80 to get a good pair.

Is that a standard detail ? i thought the hanger worked by having full contact. Anybody.

Is that a photo angle thing, is the pole plate the same depth as the joist.

Only if you have money to burn. When you come to a window you cut a block, the off cut goes in the next row, if you cut it out after you will end up with lots of random sized pieces with no where to put them. Have you been to see any icf builds? Go and have a look, an hour on somebody’s site will answer a lot of questions we are in Gloucestershire and up at first floor level if your interested.

Agree with everyone Give that a wide berth. ???

Look up FOX blocks on YouTube, they seam to have more vids than anybody else. You can do it a few ways you put your pole plate,ledger board, rim joist, call it what you like, in position, screwed to the wall with temporary fixings, mark out your joist layout, work out where your fixing bolts go and drill holes in pole plate, remove pole plate and cut a large hole in your icf in the location of the bolts, fit a membrane of some description to the back of the timber, put timber back up with bolts projecting into the holes you cut, when you pour your concrete it will flow into the holes you cut and surround the bolts, it will end up with concrete pads projecting out to the back of the timber adding the support you wouldn’t get from the insulation layer. I will be doing mine in a months time, I will try and remember to take a few pics.

You would need to insure your concrete pour was accurate to within 3-5 mm over the length of the wall, or your joists would all be out of level, you would then need to cut every block you put on next to accommodate the joist in the way. I really don’t see what benefit this method would have over the standard fixing method of a pole plate bolted to the wall and joist hangers. The canadians and the yanks have been doing it like this for years, can’t see any reason to change it.

Larry Hunn, proper old school framer, I think if you stick to the correct framing process but add in some new cad design and some new better fasteners then timberframe can be a very good method.

Screws aren’t a no no, you just have to use a screw specific to the hanger. Look at the manufacturers spec. @recoveringacademic don’t try and reinvent the wheel mark the plate up with a hanger and a set square, and as nick said a piece of timber to act as a shelf, then just drop all the joists in after you could have fitted all the hangers while the pole plate was on the deck, but now it’s up just do as above. You will find it easier to swing the hammer without a joist in the way.

How about I contact him and ask for a bulk purchase price.

I will see if I can put a link up, but I’m a bit of a Luddite when it comes to the computer.

Evening. A lad near me is selling hundreds of second hand solar panels off a solar farm,the surface of the panels are all scratched and marked, he said they are all working at about 80% capacity. Now im not thinking of the house, but can anybody think of uses around the garden, 3-4 of them on the shed 1 to trickle charge the electric fence 1 to run a pond pump come on you boffins are they of any use.

I can see your point, if they messed up their contract and it’s full of holes then go for it however I will add this if you purchased knowing there was an uplift clause then you new full well the costs involved, you have then found a loophole because of some shoddy paperwork, is that really fair, what if the boot was on the other foot, what if you had put up the question : my purchaser doesn’t want to pay me my uplift money: What does your conscience tell you, do you believe in karma ?