Russell griffiths

You need to add a vapour control layer between the 40mm celotex and the batten this can be achieved many ways a vapour control membrane taped on with all joints taped and taped to walls or tape all joins in 40mm celotex with the aluminium tape and seal to walls. That second roof makeup is probably a million times better than the first with just a little bit of juggling.

IMHO that looks like a really stupid design so yo install bloody expensive insulation and then cut a hole in it for a light DUR. might as well leave the window open pull the 100mm celotex down and touch the 40 mm against it, then find a shallow light or increase the batten depth, how is she proposing to provide your airtight layer if your going to cut a sodding great hole in it. Sorry that’s rubbish. You can have the best insulation in the world, but if it’s leaky and gappy you might as well leave it out.

How deep are your rafters, as it said you must leave 25mm above celotex as for upgrading to 125 that’s something only you can decide, you need to weigh up cost versus benefit roof windows, triple glazed at the very least, fit the best you can afford as this will be a big heat loss area. As for fitting it’s no different then any other roof, rafters doubled up on each side, fit window fit celotex in between rafters fit celotex under rafters batten and plasterboard this will leave a slightly deeper looking reveal around the window due to the 40mm celotex and batten,

My planning cost me £14600 all in, about £4500 to the planning consultants in the grand scheme of life it was money well spent we built a model of the original, then added extensions that we could get under permitted development then built another model of the new proposed house we then asked for a site meeting the planning guy didn’t really have a lot to say and just said you had better stick an application in and we got it.

Well done, we went from 60m to 240m on a SSSI site took 16 months and a load of effort.

It sounds fairly straight forward do you have two types of roof, one standard with a cold loft area, the other with a vaulted section. You really need to show us a section drawing. In the standard cold loft area you will have 150mm of quilt between the joists and then 150mm laid at right angles across the top of the joists in the loft area. In your vaulted section you have 100mm of celotex in between the rafters ensureing you allow 25mm gap between the celotex and the membrane, then 40mm of celotex under the rafters. Does that make more sense or just as confusing. @wozza thinking about it, I bet you have a raised ceiling joist, that’s why you have the two different insulation types.

50m of 90mm mdpe £225 delivered.

It really bugs me when people comment on how much these tradesmen are charging how much do you lot earn a self employed bloke has to take every opportunity to earn as much as they possibly can. You need to step back and think of all the days they don’t earn anything not a penny wet days no work no pay chrismas holidays bank holidays the four weeks annual leave you all get no sick pay having to pay all your own pension contributions add that lot up and take it away from their daily charge and you will see that there is not a lot left £17 a metre for block work, how many m a day, take off tax,public liability insurance, tools, running a van,ppe in my time running my buisness i had a lot of young lads pass through my door, but today I would not encourage any of them to go self employed.

Scanda hause use an osb board that has holes drilled in it all over i have looked for it but it must be something they produce themselves.

Wouldn’t all your rooms get 200mm smaller ok in your case, as you have the land, but smaller sites wouldn’t want to lose that much floor area. Your suggestion really points towards ICF

I can’t work out who makes the prices up,

Like this.

i would put the membrane directly on top of the sarking boards and then your counter batten but it works both ways, many ways to skin a cat i just like the look of the membrane on top of the sarking with lapped and taped joins i had the siga rep down this week and we were talking about this very thing.

Two whys. Why do you think 9mm boards will be impermeable, they won’t why do you want an impermeable layer above your rafters. The only thing I can think of would be if you are having spray foam insulation so need a solid surface to spray against if not then on top of the rafters should be your vapour permeable layer, then your counter batten then battens.

Not really pros or cons is this your place ? how long you going to live there ? downstairs on a solid floor ? Why would you want a tray form it all in the screed and tile it level with the rest of the floor it will look 10 times more classy than a tray. Up stairs over a timber floor ? Depends if your brave enough to tank it all out and have a former, a lot more skill involved in making this leak proof. If in doubt put a tray in.

What sort of price have you been given for the trespa, I thought the bloke was joking when he told me.

Yep get it all gone, right now.

Who makes up these ridiculous rules.

Just from a curiosity point, can you tell me why you need one.

Hi will, in the grand scheme of things, an internal vapour control layer should cost about £3 per m could be money well spent.

I picked a system that I believe suited my build what is your outside finish going to be ? if it’s render then this may be ok, but if you are having any type of cladding how will you fix to this system? if you look at the pics in the brochure 99% of them are rendered.

I had the SIGA rep at my place today doing a demo on all the sealing tapes and membranes they sell you should be providing a weather proof tape to the outside and an air tight tape to the inside. Squirty foam just doesn’t cut it anymore and will make your triple glazed windows a complete waste of money if not sealed properly.

They look nice @DonGillies who’s windows are they. All i I would add is make sure you look at how you are going to air seal the frames, the days of sticking a bit of mastic in are long gone. Also so look at using a nice trim to finish the render against the frame, don’t just render up to the frame and smear a bit of mastic over it, well not unless you want it looking a bit moody.

Lovely bit of timber there.

I do like it when I ask a sensible question that others are interested in. I thought the electric mat on top of ufh pipes was going to get me a good flogging.