Russell griffiths

Ironmongery direct. £10.50 for 2.5kg.

40mmx3.75 available on e bay. Timco, a good make.

It is probably just one of those old fashioned things if I remember correctly, you needed 3 things to make an application valid site map reason for work paperwork signed

Here you go, forget the hand saw unless you just like hard work, or your like Fred dibnah and like doing stuff like in the olden days cordless grinder and buy a pipe chamfering tool. Get a can of silicon spray for the rubber seals, and a clean towel for your hands or you will be slipping around like a greasy pig.

why not do the sewer connection correctly, then come back at the correct fall in the correct direction for a meter or two, then build temporary inspection chamber and drop your caravan pipe in the top of this.

Why not whack a T junction on the back of the shed and have the poopy outlet going in one end and have the other going up the back of the shed to provide a vent at roof height of the shed.

You could also use a liquid dpm painted around the ends and on the flat surfaces,before you put down your sheet dpm

I have done literally thousands of tpo applications,and from memory I would say 90% had a hand drawn sketch as a map, not to any scale but must be to a standard that any numpty could locate the tree road at front properly labelled sketch of house access to view the tree rough boundaries it has been a few years since I was involved in this but it used to be a requirement to make an application valid.

See how much you have done between those two photos stop being so bloody doom and gloom all the time doing a bloody good job some blokes can’t even change a plug. Crack on son looks smashing ??

Oh it was definitely intentional

Run a soil pipe from the toilet on the surface of the ground with a reasonable fall on it towards the manhole, cut a piece of plywood to fit in the manhole lid, cut out a 110mm hole in the ply for the pipe to plop in to. Couple of blobs of concrete to hold the pipe in place have a join near the man hole so you can wriggle out the pipe and ply to remove any blockages you can chuck a bit of sticky clay around the edges of the ply to keep any smells down. Ours has running water, hand cleaner, soft paper and a mirror spent an hour this morning lagging the pipes as we had a harsh frost last night. Give it it a couple of extra flushes as you walk past just to keep it all flowing.

I would get two 45bends and fit them together with a short bit of pipe, you can then lay this on its side to do a mock up, measure how much height you need to get your new pipe in, then you can work out if you only need to cut into the floor 40-50 75mm, cut slice in floor to depth you need and chisel out, clean pipe and fit the new 45 bends. Sorted.

If that is a vanity unit, then why do you need to move that one ? just move the toilet one.

That’s bloody cheap. ??

Have you thought about going a bit bigger. A friend of mine rented a machinist workshop for a decade, when his lease ran out he looked at buying a unit, but instead got a good chunk of financing and bought a group of four units on a little industrial estate, he has one and he rents out the other three. His mortgage will be paid off in another ten years when he plans to retire, he is sitting on 2.5 million quids worth of property all paid for by his 3 tenants over the last 10 years.

Ooh Er that sounds good @bissoejosh my beam is about 17 m long 140 wide depth to be confirmed it will be split into 3 pieces with the two joins sitting on 140x140 posts and both ends into the walls i had imagined a dirty big plate bolting it all together, but a hidden join would be nice also. A drawing would be most appreciated.

Hi @Mr Punter if you have a quick look at my first post you will see It has all been given to a local timber engineering company and they have done all the calcs and design. The problem is me being me I asked if it could be improved upon, this was deemed to be a strange request and both designers thought I was silly wanting to spend more money than was needed. They both said it met all design requirements and deflection criteria so why would I want it any stronger. Now if this was a floor I would without doubt be insisting that joist spacing be tightened up to 400 instead of 600 centres as I would want a bounce free floor, however being a roof is there any point in over engineering it, I can’t see me ever up there with 20 mates dancing to the latest chart topper. Confused as usual. I might send it to my structural engineer to look at, it’s just another £100 to add to his bill I would like to avoid.

Funny story about the local engineered timber company i walk in and talk to a bloke for half an hour, total tit didn’t like him at all so I thank him and move on thinking I won’t ever go back there. A month passes and I go to have a chat with a company a little bit further afield, as I walk in their office, guess who’s grinning at me from over his computer screen, yep mr arse hole. So it just dawned on me I can now go back to the first company as he doesn’t work there any more. ??

Don’t worry it’s all in my head in a big jumbled heap, I have designed these connectors a dozen times at 2.30 in the morning as I lay awake wondering how mad I must be to be doing this again, and thinking of my next project before this one even has a roof on.

This is on show in the main living room, so all sanded and varnished up.

Looking at @mvincentd post with his roof loadings if I give a run down of my roof buildup can anybody point me in the right direction as to the loading we should allow for in the design. Hope that makes sense. From the top down. Raised seam steel roof sheets 18mm osb 50x50batten 220x69 I joists 75mm service batten 19mm softwood ceiling i have left out vcl and roof membrane and insulation, also mvhr ducting in the service void. Any thoughts anybody.

I haven’t got building control sign off on this bit yet they have allowed me to submit a phased submission so I basically submit some drawings they approve them, I build it, I submit the next bit, they approve that bit and so on it sort of happened like this as I was keen to start work in the summer and didn’t have them all finished. Who was your supplier @joe90

I’m actually thinking of making them myself, but being rather busy I thought a nice stainless bracket would be nice. Achitect wording was GLUELAM CONNECTION BY OTHERS. i cant believe the local company who have absolutely hundreds of gluelam on the shelf don’t actually have any connection details.

Art noon, i have a fairly substantial gluelam beam going in the house to hold the roof up, this beam has 2 joins and 2 posts under the joins, has anybody found any good suppliers of joining plates i need to join the beams end to end with a post underneath the joins. The local gluelam supplier is less than helpful cheers russ.

Hi I have had a couple of different opinions what sort of slump did you specify with your icf pour. Two opinions one was 100mm the other 80mm. Any thoughts people. Cheers russ.