Russell griffiths

I think the problem is, many may say they know what to do but doing it correctly is a different matter I think it will be down to you or your project manager to learn the correct way and watch it’s done to your satisfaction.

What a ridiculous way to handle things. I might start doing my own MOT just tell the old bil I signed it off my self.

Do building control not do a frame inspection before first fix.

Have you applied for your blue badge, so you can park it at the builders merchants

Oh how I wish I had the budget for that.

In the grand scheme of things £13.00 for a tube won’t kill the house budget

Hadn’t considered stainless, any reason you didn’t choose zinc @Alexphd1

So I thought I would be using tata raised seam roofing but have started to look at other products, all raised seam but based on different base materials, has anybody got an opinion on the good and bad bits about the base material tata is a steel based product rein zinc is obviously zinc comax roofing is aluminium as i I see it steel can rust, zinc can corrode I have been told, aluminium won’t rust, but I’ve always had problems with aluminium when trying to paint it, special primer needed, would this be a problem with the coating system they use? the aluminium one actually comes with the longest guarantee out of all of them. Anybody have any thoughts.

Stuck in the bloody dark ages this country.

I don’t think you can compare the two really one is a metal standing seam, the other a corrugated fibre cement both made from a different raw material and both giving a different profile as for roof windows, when I went on the tata course a lot of time was spent talking about flashing kits for roof windows, so the metal system certainly lends itself very well to having windows installed in it with some carefull planning. If look at @JamesP roof he has done a stunning job of installing his roof windows, as for life span I think these products have moved on a lot in twenty years.

Ironmongery direct. £10.50 for 2.5kg.

40mmx3.75 available on e bay. Timco, a good make.

It is probably just one of those old fashioned things if I remember correctly, you needed 3 things to make an application valid site map reason for work paperwork signed

Here you go, forget the hand saw unless you just like hard work, or your like Fred dibnah and like doing stuff like in the olden days cordless grinder and buy a pipe chamfering tool. Get a can of silicon spray for the rubber seals, and a clean towel for your hands or you will be slipping around like a greasy pig.

why not do the sewer connection correctly, then come back at the correct fall in the correct direction for a meter or two, then build temporary inspection chamber and drop your caravan pipe in the top of this.

Why not whack a T junction on the back of the shed and have the poopy outlet going in one end and have the other going up the back of the shed to provide a vent at roof height of the shed.

You could also use a liquid dpm painted around the ends and on the flat surfaces,before you put down your sheet dpm

I have done literally thousands of tpo applications,and from memory I would say 90% had a hand drawn sketch as a map, not to any scale but must be to a standard that any numpty could locate the tree road at front properly labelled sketch of house access to view the tree rough boundaries it has been a few years since I was involved in this but it used to be a requirement to make an application valid.

See how much you have done between those two photos stop being so bloody doom and gloom all the time doing a bloody good job some blokes can’t even change a plug. Crack on son looks smashing ??

Oh it was definitely intentional

Run a soil pipe from the toilet on the surface of the ground with a reasonable fall on it towards the manhole, cut a piece of plywood to fit in the manhole lid, cut out a 110mm hole in the ply for the pipe to plop in to. Couple of blobs of concrete to hold the pipe in place have a join near the man hole so you can wriggle out the pipe and ply to remove any blockages you can chuck a bit of sticky clay around the edges of the ply to keep any smells down. Ours has running water, hand cleaner, soft paper and a mirror spent an hour this morning lagging the pipes as we had a harsh frost last night. Give it it a couple of extra flushes as you walk past just to keep it all flowing.

I would get two 45bends and fit them together with a short bit of pipe, you can then lay this on its side to do a mock up, measure how much height you need to get your new pipe in, then you can work out if you only need to cut into the floor 40-50 75mm, cut slice in floor to depth you need and chisel out, clean pipe and fit the new 45 bends. Sorted.

If that is a vanity unit, then why do you need to move that one ? just move the toilet one.

That’s bloody cheap. ??

Have you thought about going a bit bigger. A friend of mine rented a machinist workshop for a decade, when his lease ran out he looked at buying a unit, but instead got a good chunk of financing and bought a group of four units on a little industrial estate, he has one and he rents out the other three. His mortgage will be paid off in another ten years when he plans to retire, he is sitting on 2.5 million quids worth of property all paid for by his 3 tenants over the last 10 years.