Russell griffiths

Has anybody been offered any free tickets, I didn’t think I wanted to go so have been ignoring e mails, i now fancy a day out and can’t find any freebies anybody help. Cheers russ.

OMG that looks horrible, what a bloody legend dealing with that.

Not on my bloody site there’s not as the seasons start to change I thought I would add my opinion on mud on site nope don’t want it, your trades will walk it through your new house, their van will drag it down the road, and it makes for an unhappy environment to work in. When I did the site scrape I extended it for 5-6 m in all directions from the hose footprint, I removed all topsoil and replaced it with recycled crushed hardcore and a blinding of local stone, the cost was 3 truckloads of crushed at £145 per load and 1load of stone at £165 the outcome is priceless not a drop of crud anywhere.

@epsilonGreedy not really the beams where 4.7 long the forks are spaced the furthest apart you can get them, let’s guess a metre, so they are sitting there very firmly, forklift bounces over a rut in the ground, er nope, all ruts levelled and filled with hardcore, as the saying goes smooth as a babies bum.

MORE THOUGHT. I don’t borrow equipment ever pay the farmer to come and do it, it’s his if it gets damaged it’s down to him, blowing up a diff or breaking a gearbox will hurt you in the wallet dept big time. Slinging under the forks. Why. It’s a forklift use it as it was designed look at the pic and you can see the beams are not in the final position. Why. Placing them exactly takes time, I paid our farmer for an hour of his time, he was crazy busy as it was harvest time, so he said he could help but only quickly. plonk the beams down to within 100mm of their final destination, send farmer Fred on his way clutching a pile of readies, move beams to final resting place by a gentle lever with a bit of 4x2 TOP TIP. Don’t put your damp course under them until the end, sliding them about will only scuff it and tear it one bloke can easily lift a beam end with a bit of timber as a lever, the other bloke fits dpc all nice and flat.

Just a silly topic if anybody is having to do this sort of thing themselves i had 16 tonnes of concrete floor beams to put in place at a distance of 15m from where we could get the closest lifting equipment, answer don’t build the front wall of the house and drive the forklift inside the house working your way out until all beams in place, once all in place finish off the last bit of wall. Pic one the forklift sitting in the back bedroom, pic 2 halfway, pic 3 just exiting the garage. All done.

Would you have a pic please @Simon Brooke

Hi I used to live not far away in Ruislip. Getting straight to the point, is it worth it??? i used to do a lot of work for developers and knocking down a perfectly good house to build another doesn’t work, most on here who have done it either took a ramshackle house and knocked it down or the plot it was on was worth more than the house, yours look neither, to good to knock down and the plot doesn’t warrant spending £250000 plus on top of what you have. With the house prices by you would you not be better giving it a lick of paint and selling and looking for the crap bungalow on the nice plot a little bit further outside the m25. Sorry to be blunt. Russ.

Ooooooh I like that, do you use the other barns, could they fall down????

Just what I was thinking. Cheers another product to go in the crap bin.

Has anybody used the insulated roof sheets, like the ones on big warehouses, I think kingspan make a lot of them. Having a bit of a rethink on our roof after just visiting a neighbour putting up a big barn. Cheers russ.

Have a look at the nudura vids on you tube, lots with real stone on the outside.

Fix them with exterior tile adhesive?????

Isn’t it funny , one mans trash is another mans treasure ive just bought 100 ton of crushed rock.

I intend to fit mat well into my tiled floor and fit tiles inside the mat well with a couple of blobs of silicon and grout, on sign of just pull out and fit the mat. I asked our bco about a covered area above the flat portion and he said he wasn’t fussed it was up to me if I put it in.

I’m looking for a peel n stick type membrane, below ground on my ICF walls, this is not a basement but just the small area from footings to ffl has anybody got any suggestions. Nudura my block maker do one, I’m just looking for price and performance comparisons @Triassic what did you end up using mate.

Shaping the eps will be simple, after playing with mine for a week you can chop it, cut it, screw it glue it, and if you cock it up just stick the cock up bit back in. Why don’t you come over and play with mine for an hour to get a feel for it. Now thats an an offer you don’t get every day.

Oh well backwards Britain strikes again there is a standard measurement in OZ of 140 mm to centre of pipe. Thats how they are all set out, toilet just slips straight on no flexible fittings or swan necks. Oh well we might catch up in the next 100 years. Cheers guys ??

Is there a standard spacing for a soil pipe to exit through the floor in relation to the distance from the finished wall surface, taking into account the pan connector. I havnt picked the toilet for this room yet and want to get the rough pipework through the floor. Does this make sense ? Standard closed couple toilet, fixed back to wall, 90degree pan connector, down to pipe sticking up through floor. Looking for distance to centre of pipe that sticks through the floor.

If you make sure you grip fill the bottom of the sole plate and grip fill the floor and squidg them together to break off any skinning over, you will need to chisel it up with a BFO hammer if you get it wrong.

I have grip filled loads of stud walls down, what are your floor coverings, as the ones I did where all held in place by the tiled floors either side.

They say a picture paints a 1000words thanks to you both @JSHarris @Ed Davies I owe you both a beer. ???

Thanks for all the response guys @JSHarris would there be any chance of a cross section sketch or a. Photo I am wondering how the 10 mm gap was created also @Ed Davies any chance of a sketch or photo thanks guys.

I have some funny gables, as the roof is mono pitch

I was thinking of getting 100 zonts and 50 zuckles, to make up 50 braces. As regards fixing to the floor I had thought of first fixing down a scaffold board using a fixing that only penetrates 40 mm into the slab and then fixing braces to that, just to lesson the amount of fixings going into the slab. As I have decided on block n beam floor I don’t have the problem with ufh any more as it will get installed later.