Russell griffiths

Nope.

Do you have a drainage layout drawing its not that expensive all the pipe and fittings if you buy from an online retailer, but if he has priced it from travis Perkins as he thinks that’s what you would do it will cost a fortune. In an emergency I had to get a fitting from travis Perkins it was £24 the same part online was £8

This could be a silly observation, so bear with me if it had a round waste would it not have a fall to a centre point, so if you change to a linear waste will the pre formed falls not line up very well.

I will just add my thoughts i can see exactly why you want to. But the question have you felt a 500m roll or looked at the size of it, having just laid 260m of 32mm I can’t imagine what a 500m roll feels like, I would think 500m would be the max you would want to go and it will be a job for a couple of strong lads, not something to do with the wife on a Sunday arvo.

Hi @bigreadie I’m afraid I did all my Groundworks myself, however we did use a piling contractor SEVERN BORE PILING who I can highly recommend if that is what you end up doing. If you give us an indication of how much you can successfully do yourselves, and a brief idea of what you want to build and the level of finish i think there are a number on here who could give a good ball park figure for what it is going to cost you.

Those prices look ridiculous, I would do more research, a number of members on here have gone for a foundation and frame as a package. I remember a topic on here recently about insulated slabs and I believe the figures being chucked about where £120 per m so that should have your slab done for £17000 as long as no funny ground conditions for what it’s worth my footprint is double yours and my foundations up to finished floor came in at under £40000, that included piling and a very substantial ringbeam due to very poor ground. I would like to think at 140m you should get a foundation and frame package with a roof on it for £100,000 easily. My personal opinion I would look at something better than sips panels.

OMGG. Your first link was better you need to put up some pics to show us what you have preferably with a straight edge in the pic

Clear and precise answers from mr Harris as usual. ??

Depends if you want to pay too much cheapest quotes I got where around £1200, labc £700

Is @recoveringacademic implying we all need to diet.

Yep had a brief look, but the rental or purchase cost of the seeming tool is a bit off putting.

I think @scottishjohn you miss read my question, I can find loads of tools, that is not the problem what I asked was what tools anybody had found useful when they did their roof did they find that the left handed food whisk made purposely for stirring angel delight was the precise thing needed to form the left hand fold on the eaves over hang. Thats is what I’m after, I have loads of snips, just looking for something that was invaluable in the fitting of raised seam panels.

We used to use dial before you dig on jobs, would that show what people want to know, has been 15 years since I last used them, do they charge now ?

Pre made panels, looking for decent tin snips, duckbill pliers, and anything you found good for bending bottom hems and other bits and pieces.

If you have a good Groundworks team who are familiar with reinforced concrete then it seems like a no brainer asking them to use something they are not familiar with will rock the boat. And ICF is not cheap to buy, I would go traditional route then waterproof the outside and insulation on the inside.

Does anybody like the SIGA stuff it’s a bit pricey but I got to play with some the other day and it was very tough stuff.

I’m very happy changing my mind, I get to walk in the front door and work out at exactly 6 in the morning the sun is just coming over that tree, so the window reveal needs to be cut back another 200mm to get the best view as I’m having breakfast. im so glad I didn’t go for a passive slab with all the drains in place, as I have completely rotated our en-suite 180 degrees as it just felt to cramped. I can see a number of changes coming before I’m finished. ??

Whilst we are talking plasterboard, does anybody. Backblock their joins, you know the side joins that don’t fall on a timber.

I have used 2.4m 3.6m 4.8m 6.0m i cant understand if you have a 4m wide room we have to have a bloody join in it. Even in the wet rooms the cement board comes in 3m,go from floor to ceiling no joins in a 2.7m high room. And ive used boards 1.35m wide so you can put two boards horizontal for a 2.7m ceiling.

Hi. Anybody that has done there own raised seam roof, did you find a few tools that where essential funny shape pliers, tin snips. @JamesP @Alexphd1 Cheers.

Is it possible to buy sheets bigger than 2.4m, I do find the English sizes a bit pathetic to say the least, when are we going to catch up with the rest of the world.

Nope didn’t buy them in the end, just hired them i didn’t think you needed them with the blocks you are looking at.

dig all the polystyrene out and look at the pipe, you should be able to cut it lower if you need to. Choose your waste fitting. Pic just as an idea. Drop it on pipe and grab a straight edge and a spirit level go to tile shop and pick up half a dozen sample tiles get a bit of hard board or something to pretend to be your tanking adhesive and membrane if you are going to use one. Get on your old knackered knees and have a bit of a dummy up to see what falls you can get. This is all dependant on your floor finish or finish in the adjacent rooms, you may find if you put a 20mm thick timber in the bedroom then that will help you to loose any step.

G,day due to me having a brain that flits about like a demented wasp i have changed our internal layout, so a stud wall that would have been NON load bearing now needs to take an upstairs floor load. Im not worried about the loading the structural engineer is doing some sums on that as we speak, what I want to know is we have a block n beam floor with the obvious void underneath, so with the non load bearing version the wall would have been built of the top of the screed on top of insulation what I need to do now is build this stud wall directly of the block floor with no insulation below the sole plate do I lay a couple of courses of blocks to bring me up to height then the stud wall, or will I need to insulate the sole plate by using a load bearing insulated block like marmox being the sole plate is already of the ground what is the risk from condensation need to stop changing my mind.com.

What’s with the stud wall ? Are you lining out the inside with stud work.