Russell griffiths

dig all the polystyrene out and look at the pipe, you should be able to cut it lower if you need to. Choose your waste fitting. Pic just as an idea. Drop it on pipe and grab a straight edge and a spirit level go to tile shop and pick up half a dozen sample tiles get a bit of hard board or something to pretend to be your tanking adhesive and membrane if you are going to use one. Get on your old knackered knees and have a bit of a dummy up to see what falls you can get. This is all dependant on your floor finish or finish in the adjacent rooms, you may find if you put a 20mm thick timber in the bedroom then that will help you to loose any step.

G,day due to me having a brain that flits about like a demented wasp i have changed our internal layout, so a stud wall that would have been NON load bearing now needs to take an upstairs floor load. Im not worried about the loading the structural engineer is doing some sums on that as we speak, what I want to know is we have a block n beam floor with the obvious void underneath, so with the non load bearing version the wall would have been built of the top of the screed on top of insulation what I need to do now is build this stud wall directly of the block floor with no insulation below the sole plate do I lay a couple of courses of blocks to bring me up to height then the stud wall, or will I need to insulate the sole plate by using a load bearing insulated block like marmox being the sole plate is already of the ground what is the risk from condensation need to stop changing my mind.com.

What’s with the stud wall ? Are you lining out the inside with stud work.

I had a slight cock up with our last pour and forgot a beam pocket, so had to chip it out with a small breaker i was very surprised how hard and how long it took, absolutely solid, I did use c35 throughout though.

Work out your falls, you could get the area ground down to provide enough fall

IMHO Look at what you are building and pick a product for that job i have just finished my icf and chose nudura, now I have finished that bit I am very glad I didn’t choose one of the wood fibre/ cement type blocks. On my build it would have added lots of scaffolding costs, forklift costs, and a serious amount of heavy handling. As I said it’s job dependant, so don’t just look at the price.

As others have said, don’t get the kango out yet the fall only needs to be in the shower wet area, you don’t have the whole room on a fall look at some low level grates and work back from that. Worst ways you might have to chip out around the drain. Your title was funny, as I was playing with my new nail gun and had visions of you with a dirty big ring shank sticking out of your boot

I think we need to change our thoughts on rain, I think we will be getting more heavy rain, unlike the drizzle normally associated with England. A thing to look out for is how many outlets, normally never enough and the gutters start to struggle i think the norm used to be one outlet every 6m.

Well done, it is a nice feeling isn’t it.

We are going to slightly reduce the insulation in those areas to maintain the thickness of the screed above, ufh will be stapled down to insulation so will just follow the step down, with a little bit of fettling around the step in the insulation so as to avoid any kinking our en-suite are not very big so not a huge task. 2.7m x1.5m

That’s a better price. ??

My last place had 3 wet rooms, all fully tanked and tiled we poured the floor and left a set down in the slab of about 30/40 mm we then screeded this to the required falls then tanked then tiles. No step up or down from any room to the wet areas. My new place will be exactly the same. 3 en-suite all fully tanked and tiled.

Thanks chaps will start doing some testing.

I’m looking for a nice red/ brown cedar if that makes any sense.

I take it you don’t want a ceiling in the garage or is there another reason for not having trusses.

I take it you have calculated your water run off from the roof, I used to have a 5000ltr tank and could fill it in one night with a good shower. Get some pics up as soon as you start we have just put our last icf block in position, every item of clothing I own has expanding foam on it. Just about fed up with it now, ready for something new. Good luck, if your blocks are like my steel reinforcement, number 1 will be the last pallet you find.

evening. Im looking for recommendations for a timber stain, sealer, protection going on facia board so high shitty weather zone happy to re do it every couple of years i would like something that will soak in and protect the timber rather than a sit on top flake of type rubbish. Would be be happy with a stain for the colour, and then maybe a top coat for added protection. Anybody got any gooduns.

They do a purpose made rubber strip I just don’t want to spend £900 on it.

My mate just did his man cave in these white panels that are used inside caravans and motor homes and horse boxes 2.4 x1.2 white some sort of melamine type face, he just screwed them on with the plastic caps that cover the screws, little plastic joining strips. Expensive though

Top banana @A_L have not seen that site before.

Not worried about battens coming loose @Mr Punter will all be screwed down. Roof is metal sheets with a 50mm breather gap @ProDave even with a breather gap I’m anticipating a bit of condensation on the back of the sheets, which will drip onto my membrane, so I’m trying to put the best most watertight membrane on I can, the Swiss manufacturers recommend a nail strip under the counter batten, it is probably over kill but I would kick myself for scrimping on a detail and then have problems i would rather leave out a fancy tap in the kitchen to build a better roof.

Just added up all my batten length and it looks like I would need 700m @£1.20 a m i think i will put a line of cheap pu adhesive under them. Can get boxes of 12 tubes for £3.30 a tube. Belt n braces I think. Probably over doing it, but I do intend being buried in the back garden when I go so don’t want to be looking at a leaky roof as I lay in my box.

Morning all it has been suggested to me that under my counter batten I fit a foam strip to protect against any water penetration around nail and screw fixing holes. Having found some eye watering products I wondered if anybody has used anything cheaper. Ta.

Could you install an insulated cavity closer and then clad the reveal in something like a cement board, or plastic facia to match the colour of the door.???

I think he is probably stuck in 1980, if he suggests you render the out side in a sand and cement render, kill him quickly and bury the body in your footings. Im not familiar with stone walls but from what I do know I think it should be allowed to breath i would look for better clarification from a stone/lime pointing type body.