Russell griffiths

Our piles where cheaper than I expected approx £350 per pile 6-7m deep my ringbeam cost £7000 to complete but that was with me doing all the labour, but mines in excess of 100LM if you only have 41LM then that’s fairly small and should be only a few days work to do.

If you haven’t paid for it, who gives a shit, if it’s wrong and you are convinced you are right, tell them to pull it down and take the shit away if you are 100% convinced you are right stop work immediately and throw them off the site.

Go and see a good accountant.

We are only just discussing door location with the window co now, I believe because of the width of the frames they will sit towards the front edge of the wall, still needs clarification. As to waterproofing im afraid I won’t be doing anything unusual as I have an 1800mm roof overhang 45degree rain hardly gets near the front of the building

again not really what your doing but this is a 250x150 icf beam across the top of our doors. Like in my previous picture we are having an aluminium flashing to cover this on the outside

Have you had a structural engineer look at this i would be surprised if a 300x100 Chanel will span 5m and support all that glass and a door and a floor not the look your after, but this is what we are doing to hide the 300mm deep concrete beam above our doors.

For the sake of 5 minutes work I would cut a couple of blocks to stick in.

If you need to borrow a multi tool I have one here however I think the banging method will work.

When you put it back check if you are supposed to put blocking in the web of that joist.

Get an old wood chisel, 25mm wide put up against the head and hit with a hammer, pretend you are trying to actually chop the heads off but this won’t happen, what will happen is the nail will pull out a couple of mm so you can get a small crow bar or a pair of pinchers on to them, then yank out. Easy peasy.

For a nice raised strip between the gravel when the time comes. 3-5 rows of granite setts, you can raise each row 5mm higher than the previous to create a raised hump without the teeth clattering of a raised curb. Point them up nice and they will look the nuts

I would chuck a chunk of 18mm ply on top of the insulation, slide your bucket across the surface quickly and stab into the screed face, then lift sweep surface and repeat.

I wouldn’t do anything neat until you are 99%finished scratch a trench out with a mattock and fil with a strong concrete mix set 50-75mm high round of the top with a chunk of timber, rough up with a broom to make non slip, Roberts your mothers brother. Anything pretty you put there will get trashed by the first delivery wagon. On a a different note, are you going to get you hedge in soon, stick some rabbit gaurds around them and by the time you move in you will have a nice bushy hedge. Pennies to do in the grand scheme of things but worth thousands in getting it established early.

I would use my mini excavator, park on top of the screed and get your teeth under the edge and lift, flip all the bits on top of the screed and sweep the loose off the insulation.

Toughened on the inside, laminated outer pane.

Now then, now then.

Putting a joint in the wall is probably nearly as bad as admitting you liked jimmy savil. Dont do it.

Just call out two gas safe engineers and compare what they say, don’t even think of doing it yourself.

Just to clarify if a bloke called @Patrick pops by and offers to lend a hand, decline politely and walk away. ????

I installed a couple of vents like this in our old house last year, as we where suffering from serious condensation in the bedrooms. Breathing out at night, it worked really well last winter and the condensation halved over night, this year it is back with a vengeance, I think the mesh behind the vent may be blocked. They have worked really well, unless your friend is suffering from a bad draft I would leave them alone.

Why don’t you check with manufacturer, that does seem a lot. Every hole, that’s what they designed them for, that’s how they will be load tested. Are you using a jiffy hanger, the bendy ones, if so nail the full height of the joist and bend the top over and chop off with snips.

Have you collected the shed? if not I would collect it so you know what the base configuration looks like, lay the base on and make your decision based on that. The last thing you want to do is fit something and have to alter it.

No, second fix dewalt looks good not a lot of bad press.

The new house is having laminated glass on all windows.

No, why? thats what there designed for.