Russell griffiths

Lots on YouTube if you look up the manufacturers pages.

All of the board manufacturers make their own surface finish, some you spray on, some you put on with a roller. Most are aimed at commercial builds, where they want a good finish without skimming.

Reading through this lot the only thing I would add from a more hands on approach would be that if you use smaller boards make sure the team doing the jointing and finish knows this, if I turned up and you had used small sheets and there was double the joints it will cost you double the money to get it finished. I will be planning on using the biggest sheets I can find, if I can buy 4.8m in this country then that’s what I will use, I would rather pay for additional labour in fitting than having a joint every metre.

It has been many years since I was involved in this stuff and then we always used our consultant. But what I will add is it’s always wise to include that all excavation will be carried out by hand digging, no mechanical excavation. With regards timing they probably want to know that any heavy trades will have finished before the fencing is removed to carry out the hand digging. What they don’t want is you removing the fence building a parking area and then Fred the delivery driver unloads 20 packs of blocks on top, so it’s all about reassuring them that you are going to continue to provide protection even if you remove the fence.

I have no idea, it’s your house. ??

If you strip all the render off back to the frame you might want to add a sheathing board directly to the studs then your breather membrane.

Have you found all the inspection covers? have a real good go to find them all, this way you can see flow from one chamber to another as he sucks it out. Then as he drops the level you can flush the bog to see where the pipe enters the first chamber.

What ya asking me for. I know nuffin.

Start sucking you will soon find out, we have 3 on different properties i got one sucked out only to find huge slabs of concrete 1mx2m laying at funny angles in the bottom it turns out when they built the new one the couldn’t be bothered to remove the old one and just pushed it in the middle of the hole. I would suggest getting a man around with tanker and start sucking, you will soon get an idea as one chamber empties it will flow in from another, you will see if it is ground water coming in as it will obviously be a bit cleaner. One of mine will only drop 2 feet and then ground water pours in from the leech field flowing backwards, so we concentrate on sucking the solids from the bottom, get 1000ltres out and give up, if you carried on you would need to empty every lake within a few miles. Get sucking boy. ???believe me it won’t get better by ignoring it.

That is true, but he hasn’t he has a cess pit.

Why? they suck the shit out and you pay them bye bye shit, doesn’t need to be anymore complicated than that. Just google the closest one. I pay £100 for about 1200 L

Empty ours every year without fail even if it looks ok, just good insurance.

Conveyor belt, easy. C,mon try harder.

I fully agree with @Sensus if you build it as you have detailed I would expect your timberframe to start rotting out immediately and be beyond help within 5years. The other drawing shows a timberframe layout, if this is how it is planned to be constructed you need to go back to the drawing board and completely re design it, if you have drawn this up yourself say so, if you need a hand and we will point you in the right direction there are many knowledgeable people here who are happy to help. what you have there is a poor construction drawing for a shed.

Why not get a rubber one and cut the aluminium bit off and just use the rubber to pull down and sleeve over the lead upstand.

Have you not got a big rubber flange thingy with an aluminium outer that slides over the flue. This is what I have, I have never got around to actually fitting it down to the roof it is just slid on and pushed flat to the roof and it doesn’t leak even when not finished correctly. Do you have a pic

Get some prices for eps, I need a fair bit. 185m of 100mm

If that’s what you need just make them. 150mm eps make a hot knife and cut it out. Should be easy with your German background. Oh oh hold on I think I’ve seen you with a saw. All joking aside, that looks very straightforward to do. You could make them off site somewhere warm and dry and bring to site. I think you will find some insulation co will cut to desired shape. You could even just use two different thicknesses and glue together.

When I looked at mine I couldn’t understand why the infilled panels had to be a funny shape. Why can you not use 100mm thick eps 200 cut to 450wide to replace the blocks, then another layer of 100mm eps 200 on top glued down with a concrete topping for strength and rigidity. Dont know why they need to lap under the beams.

Oh sorry, where do you mean inside.

I don’t think things like this are in your remit to argue whos imdemnity insurance is it going on. Get it piled and sleep easy at night.

If you put pvc on your barn you will burn in Hell nope don’t do it must be wood to keep the look. You are pointing up using lime mortar and now want to use pvc. Nope don’t do it. ????

If you don’t know this you shouldn’t be doing the job I’m sure you where asking last week what the going rate was for 190mm blocks. Wrong forum mate, sorry.

Make sure the insulation is butted tight to each other as well no point having a 15mm gap and covering it with tape. And tape it to the wall vcl as well.

Ok cool will bite the bullet and see what they come up with.