Russell griffiths

Unless you are tight on budget I would pile rather than a 3m trench, I went down 2.3 with a big extension and it was horrible, so messy sides collapsed, had to shore it all up, props and ply and mud every where the piles we have just done where done in a week with no mess and fuss. I would pile straightaway if over 2m.

Any reason you need to know this. My architect sent the drawings to the piling engineer, he designed the piles and then they got put in. Having known the loadings myself I don’t think anything would have changed.

I was on a course last weekend and they showed us this.

£120 that would buy some nice parts for an old Capri.

I have not been involved in the tree business for a good few years so I would clarify anything first but generally a generic e mail to the tree department, get a confirmation back to keep on record and start cutting. If the councils do not put the appropriate measures in place to stop these things then they have nobody to blame but themselves.

What permission is this? if you are not in a conservation area and the trees are not covered by a tree preservation order then no consent is required check the site has no other planning restrictions and your good to go.

Nope, just got a sample.

Morning i intend having downlights in my External soffit, so as I’m fitting facia and soffits at the moment I need to get some wiring in place first. Is the large area behind my facia classed as safe, and would you run the wire in a conduit or just clip it to the rafters. @ProDave @Onoff

Only in a friendly manner I must add.

I think you should use brass angle, it would be nice if you can keep a high lustre finish on it by polishing it weekly. Or you could do it like a normal person and just mortar them in and get on with the next job.

Have you looked at a product called rockpanel we are looking at it for a couple of elements of our place.

I haven’t decided on a board yet, but whatever it is will be taped and jointed and a fst applied look up level 5 finish on drywall, too many people over here think you need to skim to get a good finish, what utter rubbish do you think a $5 million house in the states has a poor finish because they don’t wet plaster.

You don’t need to plaster any of the plasterboard products @Dreadnaught if you don’t want to, my last house had no wet skim plaster and this one won’t either.

Told ya he who dares son.

I was sitting here trying to be quiet.

Just going back to your last thread about your roof, something I did that I didn’t see you do was actually dry, warm the roof I read that you checked with a moisture meter but when I did mine I actually used a large blowtorch and heated the ply until I could see all the moisture steaming off it, I got it so it was so warm to touch it was too hot to put a hand on it. I did this all over very quickly, then went over it again before I made a mix, then laid on the resin whilst the boards where warm, did mine in January with 4-5 hour dry windows in the weather.

Chicken.

Take those screws out and have a look he who dares Rodney

Nope, smash the granny out of it.

You need a series of weep holes above the cavity tray to eject the water

If that’s on ply, I would smash the be,Jesus out of it and lay down new ply. It will be a ball ache trying to get that adhesive off rip it all out and start a fresh will give you a better option to fix the ply down better instead of trying to get a few more fixings in without knowing where pipes are.

Have you seen the Aframes for sale on e bay. Ex holiday homes complete and on a site, need dismantling and removal £12,000 I did think of having a serious look as we will be putting up another couple of cabins in the next cool years, but an A frame would not be in keeping with my other cabins. TBH the one you linked to is barely more than a shed as @iSelfBuild said, I wouldn’t consider them fit for my holiday let’s let alone permanent residency my neighbour has a few cabins he lets out that where built to a standard that you could live in them, I looked at replacing mine with something similar to what he has, I was looking at about £100,000 to get one onto site and erected, then services on top, so £110,000 plus your plot plus planning plus landscaping.

900x1200 smooth slate on e bay £80 each.

Our local wood burning stove place sells big chunks of slate for hearths, would be easy to cut these to shape.

@Patrick you need some clarification on this, piercing the DPM is a big problem. In @nod pictures he hasn’t pierced the DPM, this is covered by the insulation, the black plastic you can see with the clips pierced through is a second layer called a slip layer, this is there to stop the screed getting between the insulation and lifting it up. You need to make it clear you you are not using block n beam but beam with insulation panels. What detail has the insulation block manufacturer recomended. And why use the insert insulation if it’s £3000 dearer than normal blocks.