Russell griffiths

I would pull down probably half of the grade two listed buildings

Doesn’t that work out at £3,000 per m, must be one mighty flash extension.

That’s exactly what I have. Have you seen the price of it. ??

TBH i think what you have bought is just a large shed. I don’t think many things will improve the situation, so if you intend moving in a few years I would chuck it on and get on with life.

Looks spot on @magnethead questions. What make is the black dpm you have painted on ?? and what is the silicon type stuff you are using and how well does it stick. I’m finding it increasingly hard to find anything to stick to this icf.

I was going to ask this question some time but I may as well hi jack @pocster post what are the building regs regarding thermostatic mixer valves. Im sure my bc said they are not a requirement can anybody confirm what locations require thermostatic safety measures.

This really depends on what the garage is for are you limited by these sizes what is the external finish, I wouldn’t want any cladding, or timberframe coming down to the ground because of splash back. If the slab is thick you could build out to the edge to provide clearance from the ground, if not you could use a course of blocks or 2 courses of engineering bricks. How are you building the frame. I will be building a timber garage direct off a slab when the house is finished but it will be thicker at the edges to get it up off the ground and have a damp proof course under it so a few questions to answer to get a better finished product.

No waste of a day, it’s not really aimed at the end user, more companies getting contacts with other companies. Nothing there you cannot find in a glossy brochure or a quick look at the internet. If you have a free day the nec isn’t far away from you. But I was disappointed.

I haven’t I couldn’t see the point there is no way your ring beam is going to move up or down, I will fix stainless mesh over the hole around the pipes, but Im happy to be told this is wrong

Concrete lintel over the pipes no need for steel pipes will need to be fully supported on a weak dry mix of concrete do not support on blobs as the pipe will sag over time. Try to not end up with a beam directly on the mid span of a lintel if you can, unless it has enough block work on top to provide a good bearing.

Anybody going here this weekend we are going to spend Sunday looking at things we cannot afford.

Well if I had of costed it out as to what I thought it would be I was guessing £1500 so there’s obviously a bit of markup on it I did have a quote so I knew exactly what it would be, I just thought £2400 for a days work was a bit steep, I only did it for the warranty on the door, that’s why I fitted the windows myself dread to think what it would have been for another 17 windows.

I have all my windows on site that I have fitted myself but I didn’t fancy trying to fit the lift n slide door so I have had the window company fit this along with a large triangle shaped window above. 3 lads on site with a van and power tools arrive on site at 8am finished at 2pm. I supplied 2 additional men for lifting i supplied all scaffolding i supplied a powered hoist to lift up the high level window What did that cost then.

So just to update, I have had a 20% refund on the shrunken panels. Should ease my pain a bit when fitting them.

Yep, chamfer pipe ends and use the proper lumbricant, keep a rag handy or it will be like wrestling a greasy pig.

Probably about right, down in Gloucestershire we are going out at around £700-£800 for a team of two for a day.

I have the Canadian cedar and it is possible the dearest part of my build so far.

If your painting it then I would have thought the durability rating would be less important. I would look at Siberian larch.

i used this stuff @eandg SWIFTFORM its a bit more ore complicated than just having to pour some concrete. Theres a fair bit of jiggery pokery to get it all square and joined together at the corners, then you need to put the steel in and tie it all together. Then it looks like this ready for concrete.

Cavity closer.

Who is it, somebody may have used them.

I just googled it and found lots of cemps for big developments, so we downloaded them and cut and pasted any bits relevant to our site. We then printed it and bound it with lots of pictures of the site, the council refused it. I reckon if I had of forged a companies logo and name they would have never known. Another £1200 I will never get back.

This is the second post this week saying you would like ally or ally clad but it’s too expensive. Have you had any quotes. I have just had all my windows for my place and after I had got the quotes for triple glazed ally clad I decided to take the quote to a local upvc window company. He looked at the quote and the sizes and said it probably wasn’t worth him quoting as I would only save 10-15% on the quote I had. You never know they may be cheaper than you think i had budgeted £40,000 for windows and they came in at £26,000 so cheaper than I expected.

Evening all, I have a mad idea knocking around in my head, I want to cast some some thin concrete panels to be used as a decorative concrete wall now I’m ok with all the shuttering and reinforcement no probs but anybody know what mix to use or where to find info. Finished product would be 25- 30mm thick. I like the the idea of something runny with fibres. Any thoughts.

You hang the joists from a pole plate, horizontal timber. Or you use the top cord of a metal web joist. Not a joist hanger in site.