Russell griffiths

6mm cement sheet, something from James hardy. I have used a smooth faced version before and it paints really well.

You won’t find a 215 solid, they are too heavy and I don’t think they even make them any more. You normally use a 100mm block laid on its side, two courses brings you back up to height. If you get the right blocks you can you can probably save a chunk of cash by having a full load, as you can use them in the block floor as well.

Why not put a small section of electric ufh in shower room and a heated towel rail, nothing worse than a damp towel or a cold floor when getting out of the shower. The rest can be added if needed as long as you install extra power points, an oil filled rad on a timer should keep it warm enough.

Why are you thinking of permitted development? get planning and building regs for what you want, don’t build something that doesn’t fit your purpose just because you can get it under permitted development. How big is the building there already, I cannot see any reason you can’t replace it.

I would go and find a local planning consultant, best £4000 I’ve ever spent. They will know every loophole and local planning policy off by heart.

It is like a closed cell structure rather than the rice crispy type. Dries to a firm rubbery texture instead of dry and crispy.

I’m just fitting my windows so I thought I would share this info. If you are after a better quality low expansion foam look at the products made by ILBRUCK I’m using their FM330 and it is on another level compared to the normal crap. Same price as all all the other brands if you buy a box. Thats all.

Are they insulated? i would avoid too much contact with the metal in the pozi joist, I know they have rounded edges but I would still try and avoid contact in case of vibration and wear on the plastic.

Can you do me a favour and buy a broom. ?????

I suppose this all depends on your budget, and what you want to end up with. If you repair what you have there it will always be a bit of a compromise. If you want a nice workshop with heating good light and a flat floor you would be better off flattening that and starting again. I see no reason why you won’t get consent to replace it with a better built and better looking building.

Is this what you mean.

Be very carful with the community infrastructure levy, if this is not going to be a self build for yourself. Have a good read before you even put a spade in the ground.

+1 to stick them down.

It’s a funny old world, when I got quotes for mine I thought transport would be expensive, so I looked for local firms. Then I read on here that I could have got them cheaper in Ireland including the transport, so I think the best thing is just send your plans off to two or three companies and see who you like. Concrete products are very cheap in Ireland.

How high is your water table, any chance if you leave it you might get water coming up, or that it won’t drain like it is if water table rises. If you answer no to both then why not leave it alone. I know someone who installed a shower in an outbuilding with no drain just a pipe out the wall into the field next door.

Have you tried IRONMONGERY DIRECT. or one of the other online screw suppliers,

I’m not sure if you realise but the cut does not need to be accurate as the cut face will not be seen, it is the end of the brick that will be laid as the face.

Go and hire a brick cutter with a sliding table popular make is a clipper, it will have a wooden bed inside a steel tray, you screw a piece of wood down so each brick sits at the correct distance, water sprays on the disc, you will cut hundreds of them in a day. Probably don’t need to cut all the way through, 1/3 through and tap with a hammer.

I have recently had my windows measured and the surveyor said that they now require 30mm above any large openings for sliding or bi fold doors as they are getting too many call backs due to the openings settling. We have left 15mm in the width, 7.5 mm both sides and 15mm in the height. These are for windows the company are fitting, I have allowed less for the ones I am fitting as I am happy with a tighter tolerance.

Picture.

Exactly, how can your engineer spec a floor without knowing which floor supplier you would like to use. I got 3 quotes and each one was different as the beam manufacturers have different sized moulds to make the size of beams they like, we had a 100mm wide beam as span was 5m, other companies only had a 50-75mm wide beam so needed to add more beams for the same span. It is ok using an engineer for this but if he specs a certain type of beam how does he know it fits with your budget, engineers spec to cover their backs not your wallet.

I went out for a drink with 2 very reputable builders last nigh, both fully booked for a year. They said they are pricing at £1500 a m at the moment, for shell only, so wind and watertight with first fix electrics and plumbing, second fix joinery. But no kitchen bathrooms, en-suite, tiling etc. They said they are getting asked for this more and more as people are finding prices out of their reach, so it gives them the opportunity to finish as and when they can.

Your engineer is an fool. have you been to the beam manufacturer to get the calcs done properly. As said earlier they will add in a couple of extra beams and alter the spacing down to 215 or one block at 440 then 215 then 440

All I can say is I fitted the mcalpine one and was reasonably impressed with it.

Not sure I like this idea, but not sure if I’m wrong. Doesnt your treatment plant work off natural bacteria breaking stuff down, where as a chemical toilet relies on chemicals to break stuff down, wouldn’t tipping these chemicals into a new treatment plant affect its performance. Anybody more knowledgeable out there.