Russell griffiths

Just to add my bit. my pipe runs have lots of ic I could remove half of them and use long sweeping bends WHY? I want to access every pipe directly inline with its final point why would I want to increase the rodding length from 7m to 14m i want a house that functions well and is easy to work on. If you are having a very posh drive and don’t want to see an ic then I can understand why you would want to reduce the number, but if you can hide them in garden areas I see no reason to reduce the number.

Depends on the sink has it got a pedestal? is it in a wall hung vanity? or is it just a wall hung sink with a fancy chrome waste. If the last one I would get the brochure for the sink and the waste, some wastes have an extending neck so can go up and down

I’m not sure if you are getting your terminology mixed up. An I STUD would be used vertically for building walls an I JOIST would be used for a floor or roof a METAL WEB JOIST will be used for floors. If you are using them as studs for the walls you can use a deeper stud 225-300mm this way you can fit in more insulation, you will not find many solid timber studs over 145mm so these require a way to get more insulation in so you normally end up fitting insulation over the studs to stop cold bridges.

It’s annoying isn’t it. We came across hundreds of trees that we felled that all had a metal bar in the centre, turned out somebody thought it would be a good idea to use a piece of 1/2 inch re bar as tree stakes when they planted them.

Griggs did a full design for my roof, not sure if they can do a whole structure.

I brought all my I beams from Griggs timber in Gloucestershire I’m in Cirencester

I wonder if it’s had a silicon waterproof coating on it and now the paint is separating as it cannot sink in.

Fix it to the wall instead ??

Like this. There are other makes.

Do you know you don’t need to put that bit of timber up to fix those brackets to. You can get a little insert that you drill a hole in the block poke in insert and screw stud into it and insert expands in the block. I will shut up if you already know this.

I love the smell of napalm in the morning.

Look at different piling methods, if you go for a driven pile there will be no muck away with this as opposed to drilling a hole.

I have just fitted all my windows and it did take an age to get the right spec for each room, as far as I’m aware there is nothing to say that any window needs to open unless it is for fire escape purpose if you are using it for this purpose make sure you specify this to get the correct openings also check glass specifications in case you need toughened or laminated we have a bungalow and decided to go laminated all round as the extra cost was very little. We have 7016 outside and also inside. They look excellent. Be aware some internorm windows have a white section in the inner part that you see when they are open even if you have a colour inside and out. I think it was their upvc version.

Does that toilet not go out through the wall?? if it does how about a small stack outside.

I have a 1.5 tonne machine that is fairly high spec, so it has a zero swing counterweight, so it turns within its own footprint, it also has variable track width so it’s nice and stable for working but will squeeze through 900mm- 1m cannot remember exactly. I would get a man and machine, owner operator as he will be quick on it which will save money, just concentrate on shifting the stuff.

If it has fences down the sides you will want to screw plywood to protect them, or price in to replace them afterwards.

As long as it doesn’t slope up hill it will be fine get on with it will ya, I need you to come and guide me through all this cat 5-6 cabling stuff.

Oops so that means you haven’t done it. You have a hole to dig it’s 1m x1m x1m so you would expect to excavate 1msquared. If you imagine what you dig out is now loose and fluffy not compacted into a 1m block so it now has gaps full of air, your 1m hole has now produced 1.4m of spoil. This varies depending on soil type. As a safe margin if you think you will dig out 100m allow 40-50% for bulking.

Steady son, I thought I was the only non pc one on here.

Forget that silly loading dumper, only any good at loading materials, will be about as much use as a chocolate teapot for loading soil. They also track very slowly. After 400 loads you will be very unhappy. I would have 2 dumpers running the soil out and one digger, you will be surprised how much you can shift with a 1-5 ton machine. Have you calculated the soil bulking up as 100m is not a lot.

No good for soil as they have a weight limit.

You couldn’t make it up.

Instead of piles of dirt for collecting you could do what we had to do in London, put a couple of skips where the dirt is to go, then when the grab lorry comes get him to empty the skips, and just refill them. this solves lots of problems, it saves muck getting washed onto the highway, keeping it all tidy and neighbours a bit happier, then as you finish just get the loaded skips removed. You are probably better off getting multiple trades in to do each bit if you get one company in and your site looks like an agro job they will do one of two things, not quote or price it very high. With multiple trades the bit they will do probably won’t seem too bad so they will do it move on and be thankful that they didn’t get asked to price all of it.

Have a look at @pocster thread about internal soil pipe, I put a link up to the hangers.

Who did you get all your wet goods from. Nosey aren’t I. ??