Russell griffiths

Would you like me to come and cut it for you. Tart.

Here you go geezer.

What are you building the rest of the place from, or what is existing icf would seem a bit strange just to build a dividing wall if the rest of the place is timberframe, and visa versa.

Thinking outside the box. Can you afford to not have the money in one lump. You could in effect supply the finance to buy your own plot of you, monthly mortgage payments to you instead of a lump sum.

Can you not get them to hire them and add it all to their bill , so zero rating it.

Watch out for the solar gain police to be along soon ??

Only one cable cool. Tbh I’m a bit disappointed, I came home imagining loads of Micky taking, especially from @AnonymousBosch, I had loads of good comebacks planned and not one bit of random p##s taking. You lot are far too nice.

@Nickfromwales garage could be twisted around a bit to get the roof facing the best way. At the moment this could be a year away.

I thought you lot @Jeremy Harris @ProDave Had answered this for me. Thank you. But it has now led to a new question which could be a bit silly so cut me some slack I’ve just got up. If I put the pv on the garage I need a cable to take the newly made electricity back to the Cu. Got that. Do I have a separate feed from the Cu to the garage to power the garage itself ? does the electric travel both ways down the cable. Or is a separate cable needed. oh god as I’m typing this I can imagine you all laughing at this. Im just thinking about water you couldn’t have water pushing both ways. Thats my justification for a silly question.

I thought most doors and windows where bespoke really there are lots of companies around specialising in large doors and windows it really depends on your spec. I have just had triple glazed ally clad doors and windows from a company called norrsken the big door weighed a smidge under half a tonne so not exactly small. I know of a few on here that have used them as well as loads of other companies. I dont think what you are after is particularly unusual.

You need to satisfy yourself that the new location is ok for example, if they have a drain run close to the house are you going to end up with inspection chambers in the middle of a nice path instead of hidden in the garden. Have a good think of why why it was drawn up the way it was and what implications it will have with a new layout. If you are not happy get it done as per the drawing simple as that.

I notice from your pdf that you have one roof ejecting water onto a lower roof, these are the areas you will need to look at carefully as the increased volume of water can overwhelm the lower gutter.

I base a lot of my views on what I have seen fail over the years. I would say that most flat roofs fail because of inadequate fall and water gathering i would say that most gutters fail because the water cannot get out quickly enough i would design it to get that water into the gutter as fast as possible, then get it out of the gutter and down a pipe as fast as possible. There used to be rules regarding one gutter outlet every so many metres, now I see a whole house roof going down two outlets one front one back. Completely different to your situation, but I have a massive roof area all at a low pitch and my first thought was get that water off that roof get it in a gutter and get it on the floor quick smart.

My eps blocks have been exposed for a year and a very persistent bird has pecked a 60mm diameter hole in the outside, I think discovering the concrete core really put a downer on his plans.

All ICF, if based on either eps or xps will susceptible to both rodents and any solvent based products. Get an eps icf block and chuck some acetone on it, it will melt away in front of your eyes. I don’t suppose that your suppliers thought to mention this as I thought it would be common knowledge. Its a bit like saying will my timberframe burn, yes it’s made of wood.

Have you a better pic, it looks to me that this is not a window in an original location, if you look at the brickwork you would not end up with a mortar joint up against the frame. Looking at the terrible silicon I think it has been patched up previously i think it is probably a job for the spring where you will need to cut out all the manky stuff and work out where it is getting in. It is probably just penetrating through the jamb around the frame is it solid brickwork ?

Brilliant answer dave, it hadn’t even crossed my mind to put all the junk in the garage, I was trying to envisage stuffing it all in the services cupboard. Will measure distance tomorrow.

I think wavin make a silent pipe as well.

I’m thinking of putting PV in at a later date, my main concern at the moment is actually having the cash to finish the house without things like PV so im thinking of a remote setup on the garage roof that will be built some time after we move into the house what I’m after is what sort of ducting to put in place from the garage back to the house. Is there a distance where where it gets unviable to have it remotely, I presume the further away the larger a cable is needed. Where do I run back into the house. To the consumer unit? Or to a place that has the space to store all the solar gubbins can the solar stuff be in a utility cupboard that houses the hot water tank and ufh manifold, but it doesn’t have the CU, that is in a cupboard just across the hall. Any thoughts @ProDave @Jeremy Harris

You can buy all these little details in raw form and then get a local welder to weld onto boring railings, can be a cheaper way of getting a bespoke look. I haven’t got a link but I was looking for fake rivet heads and found a site that produces all sorts of steel fancy bits.

It does come off with a rub of your finger so I did wonder about just using a dishwasher sponge and a little water in the gutter and go along and flush it all clean.

If you go oak will you not be mixing styles considerably. Oak is old style country trespa is sharp and modern just my first thoughts. I have only seen trespa on new contempory style houses. Happy to be shown otherwise.

Morning. Im looking for something that I can use to neutralise some very minor rust staining. I have aluminium gutters that are powder coated on the outside but raw aluminium on the inside. Drilling some holes in steel I unfortunately let some steel swarf fall into the gutter, I swept it out but obviously missed tiny particles that have now rusted leaving thousands of tiny tiny orange dots on the inside of the gutter, it will probably have no ill effect but I would like to try and rub it off or neutralise it in some way. The dots rub off easily with a vigorous rub with my finger. Any thoughts. Cheers. Russ.

Cost verses value. My main philosophy is that if I feel getting a better product is beneficial to the long term quality of the house then the cost is immaterial. Lets say you can spec a better floor and the price goes up £500, so what that is a tiny price to pay. I would rather spec the fabric of the building as best I can and buy a cheaper kitchen, you can upgrade kitchens and bathrooms, but that bouncy floor will annoy you till the day you move.

Thanks all, I thought it was more complicated than that.