Russell griffiths

Cavity closer.

Who is it, somebody may have used them.

I just googled it and found lots of cemps for big developments, so we downloaded them and cut and pasted any bits relevant to our site. We then printed it and bound it with lots of pictures of the site, the council refused it. I reckon if I had of forged a companies logo and name they would have never known. Another £1200 I will never get back.

This is the second post this week saying you would like ally or ally clad but it’s too expensive. Have you had any quotes. I have just had all my windows for my place and after I had got the quotes for triple glazed ally clad I decided to take the quote to a local upvc window company. He looked at the quote and the sizes and said it probably wasn’t worth him quoting as I would only save 10-15% on the quote I had. You never know they may be cheaper than you think i had budgeted £40,000 for windows and they came in at £26,000 so cheaper than I expected.

Evening all, I have a mad idea knocking around in my head, I want to cast some some thin concrete panels to be used as a decorative concrete wall now I’m ok with all the shuttering and reinforcement no probs but anybody know what mix to use or where to find info. Finished product would be 25- 30mm thick. I like the the idea of something runny with fibres. Any thoughts.

You hang the joists from a pole plate, horizontal timber. Or you use the top cord of a metal web joist. Not a joist hanger in site.

Timber may become slippery composite decking would be easy enough to use a router and cut a groove for the strip lights.

Thanks all I will charge it up and have a play.

@Moonshine this could be difficult to describe a tony tray was something a bloke called tony came up with? basicaly you will have a vapour control layer on an inner wall surface to prevent moisture entering your wall. So you have built the ground floor and have nice flat walls, perfect for excepting your vcl, then you interrupt this nice flat wall by sticking the ends of all your floor joists into it, this makes it a complete bugger to install your vcl, you will need to tape around all the joist ends poking it in little corners, just imagine a total pain in the bum. So a tony tray is a strip of your chosen vcl that you install horizontaly around the building at joist level so it drops down into the room below and pokes up into the first floor rooms above, you leave it all hanging a bit loose with a few staples to hold it in place. Then when you install your joists you trap this membrane in place and fit your floor, you will be left with a bit of vcl hanging down and a bit poking up, when you come to install the rest of you vcl you can then tape it to the tony tray to bomplete your floor to ceiling vcl. Hope that made sense

Why would you take their word for it @Mostly Chilled, the drains should be clearly visible and cannot be backfilled until an inspection has taken place. Get your drawings and go and look, check with building control that they are happy, ask building control about this pipe they have missed and ask if they are happy with the amended layout. Its your house and your money, don’t except anything you are not 100% with.

Yep straight of the boards, makes it so much easier to board a large are instead of small rooms just look on the floor manufacturers details to look at noggins under the walls especially walls that run parallel with the joists so no joist directly under new wall. Check your leadings of these new walls in case one is carrying part of a roof load. Dont forget your vcl (Tony tray) before you joist it and board it out.

Frame ties and screw them to the plastic webbs.

Does this stick well to pvc cables. Or do I need a specific one for cables.

So I’ve just been given a brand new E300 label maker thingy anybody used one, got any tips for ease of use, or do I do myself a favour and chuck it in the garage as it will be one less thing to annoy me.

The sheet size on some of the roofs have been altered to purposely not be near a seam. Tbh the work is spot on, for a new development the work is very very good but it should be, they are a lot of money.

I’ve noticed a few people doing metal roofs with roof windows, and noticed all having a bit of a nightmare trimming around the windows. Over the road from me they are building loads of new houses all with metal roofs i have been keeping a keen eye on them to look at details and thought would share it in case anybody needs ideas. The photos are rubbish as I took them on my phone from 200m away what they have basically done is above the windows they have turned a sheet 90degrees and run it sideways as a big wide flashing, the sheets above the windows are trimmed down onto this horizontal sheet, probably with a fold that tucks under to prevent wind uplift. Hope that makes sense, if I haven’t explained properly and your interested I will go around with a proper camera.

We lived in oz and had some very funky shade sails, one set over the pool and another set over the front drive. Im going to put some stainless eyes in the wall at appropriate points so if I feel they are necessary I will install them in the spring/ summer and remove in the winter give them a good scrub and store away ready for next spring.

It’s not just the purchase price, every follow on trade will want loads of extra money to deal with that. Best left alone unless you have a mega budget.

Try and keep your two holes as far apart as you can so they don’t act together. I don’t think 15mm is going to hurt, try and do the hole in the centre not on the edge.

If you go concrete first floor you will need a crane to lift the panels in so your looking at £800++ just to get them in place, then you will need to work out how to run pipes and stuff either under or over your concrete floor. Metal web timber joists and you can run all services between them. Just a couple of things to think of that may alter the pricing.

Have done that, so mentioned to them that I consider their product to be worse than if I had bought seconds. They have asked me to come up with a figure I would be happy with.

Maybe compensation was the wrong word, a reduction in price on the item to save them coming and replacing them.

I’m thinking if they have to come and get it 1-1/2 drive, load it then 1-1/2 drive back that will cost them £200 in wasted time and wages.

I won’t need to cut any, going under rafters so full sheets apart from a couple of cuts on the ends.

I had no idea where to put this, so because it’s to do with insulation I chucked it here. So the other day i put a post post up about some pir insulation I had delivered that I wasn’t happy with, so to cut the story short I have to work out how much compo I want from the supplier and they will consider it. I will be thinking about this myself obviously but thought I would ask you lot in case you come up with some random idea that gets me enough to buy a small yacht. So the situation is i have 2.4 x1.2 sheets 70mm thick the edges are sunken back to the point I won’t use it, so the plan is to trim the sheets down. Work involved. Trim each sheet on both long lengths by 10-15mm as I see it labour, pay a man to cut these. Cost per sheet ??? disposal of debris, I will be left with debris I wouldn’t have had. Cost ??? smaller product, by cutting it down I no longer have a product 1.2 wide but 1180. Cost implications??? bit of a random thread but it is Friday night and she’s gone out so I’m bored. What you think. Will I get my yacht.