Russell griffiths

They will have it in electronic format, they then put the data in to their total station (setting out machine) when they get to site the total station has all the measurements stored in it they stand in one position and shoot the measurements across the site. You could do the job and not even get a tape measure out of his tool box. My house has something like 11 external angles and 8 internal ones, it was all set out on this machine, not one tape measure or set square even on site.

Don’t they do a plastic box thing that is angled, so you mount the panel on the angled bit and put either concrete blocks or gravel on the flat bit to anchor it down.

You should have a SITE LAYOUT EXISTING. you should have. SITE LAYOUT PROPOSED. both of these would be needed for planning consent, you could not get planning without having the proposed site plan, so in effect you already have everything. It just either needs dimensions putting on it or some form of reference for location a drawing is not good enough to measure off. your architect will have all this information digitally, it will take him 2 minutes to add dimensions and forward it on to your contractor. Get on the phone and give him a big earful. He should have all your site plans in layers so he can add and remove layers depending on what you need to view.

Had quotes from weru and neuffer, both where dearer than internorm. The weru stuff is very nice, but is it 25% nicer.

If you are worried about u value of foam, then buy better foam i have just started using products by ILLBRUCK, 10 times better than the normal stuff. It’s got a tighter cell so drys to form a far more compact blob.

A couple of hours with a site surveying team should have all that sorted. Have you had a topo done ? if so talk to a surveying company, and send it all over to them you should have all this info on your drawings. It it just sounds like they want it transferred to site so they are not responsible for putting your house in the wrong position.

Thanks all, what I should add is my father in law is actually a retired electrician, however he’s been retired now for 10 years and lacks any current paperwork. So I would like to get him up to speed and then get somebody with the correct paperwork to come and do a few inspections as we go to make sure they are 100% happy, and then help with second fix and do all the fiddly bits. I will have a read up. Cheers.

You will definitely need to check on maximum allowable opening sizes for each make. We thought we would have 1800-900 top hung but found they where too heavy so had to reduce size to 1600-900. Have you remembered what I mentioned regarding ally clad upvc, in that the opening inside is white instead of anthracite, this was a deal breaker for us so didn’t go any further with internorm.

So today openreach where out in the street putting a new cable up the poles in front of our place, being a nosey bugger I went and asked what it was. Turns out it’s a new fibre cable. But only getting rolled out to business users. Ok that’s cool we will be running a business from the new house so not a problem does anybody have a business contract and what sort of costs are involved i do intend phoning BT but thought it would be good to have some info before I get told a load of bs. Cheers all.

You can buy a STITCHING kit it consists of stainless steel rod and epoxy glue, the proper way would be to tooth out every other brick and bond the new ones back in, however no matter how you try you won’t be able to poke the mortar in as well as it was previously i would go for a mix of chopping out and drilling and bonding in the rods with the epoxy. I would probably use a metal mesh over the join when rendering.

Can anybody point me in the right direction regarding the different methods of getting my electrical work passed. I want to avoid just having a company in to do the whole lot and would rather find somebody who will work with me so I can do some donkey work i would like to do the cable laying out, fit boxes and all menial tasks but before I speak to a couple of electricians I wanted to know the correct procedures. Thanks russ.

Get the little fitting for your screw gun so all screws go in nice and flush. And not over depth.

How would you feel if you were the customer from the previous job, your job is over running and your contractor says to you sorry we cannot do all the extras you want as we have to go and start another job. Unless you have worked in this industry I don’t think anybody can understand the stress placed on contractors. Chill out.

I have used i joists for a small section of upper floor as they came free when I ordered all my roof timbers i have considered cutting them out and throwing them on the fire, the trouble I’m having trying to get all my services running through them is untrue, by the time I’ve finished with ducts for mvhr pipes for water and cables for electric yhey will look like Swiss cheese. If you will have lots of services I would go with the metal web joists.

That’s it. Make sure you tie the laps well, in case they pop up as somebody stands in the middle.

Minimum cover to protect steel from corrosion, and to allow correct strength to be achieved. It can sit lower, but then you don’t want it to close to the underside, how thick is your slab. 100mm???

Those cabinet legs come in two pieces, you just yank the tube bit out and attack it with a hacksaw then push it back in. You can chop it down to about 75mm.

My I beams 225x 75 were double the price of solid timber, but the benefits could be well worth the extra cost. If you use 145 solid timber you have got to add extra insulation if you go with a wider I joist you can get more cheaper insulation in instead of the expensive pir. Lots of lots of sums to to do and at the end of the day you just have to make a choice.

As far as I’m aware your smallest I joist would be 195mm so a bit bigger than your solid timber, and these will be a pain to fit pir into

Just to add my bit. my pipe runs have lots of ic I could remove half of them and use long sweeping bends WHY? I want to access every pipe directly inline with its final point why would I want to increase the rodding length from 7m to 14m i want a house that functions well and is easy to work on. If you are having a very posh drive and don’t want to see an ic then I can understand why you would want to reduce the number, but if you can hide them in garden areas I see no reason to reduce the number.

Depends on the sink has it got a pedestal? is it in a wall hung vanity? or is it just a wall hung sink with a fancy chrome waste. If the last one I would get the brochure for the sink and the waste, some wastes have an extending neck so can go up and down

I’m not sure if you are getting your terminology mixed up. An I STUD would be used vertically for building walls an I JOIST would be used for a floor or roof a METAL WEB JOIST will be used for floors. If you are using them as studs for the walls you can use a deeper stud 225-300mm this way you can fit in more insulation, you will not find many solid timber studs over 145mm so these require a way to get more insulation in so you normally end up fitting insulation over the studs to stop cold bridges.

It’s annoying isn’t it. We came across hundreds of trees that we felled that all had a metal bar in the centre, turned out somebody thought it would be a good idea to use a piece of 1/2 inch re bar as tree stakes when they planted them.

Griggs did a full design for my roof, not sure if they can do a whole structure.

I brought all my I beams from Griggs timber in Gloucestershire I’m in Cirencester