Russell griffiths

I’m getting to the point when I need to start looking at all the stuff to go inside the house, yes I know I should have done this a year ago. Anyway let’s talk mvhr so I fully understand that standard extraction systems are going to take the warm air out of the house and waste it by blowing it outside and I understand the principle of using the warm air to heat the incoming fresh air. What i I am having problems with is getting a grip on how to get a good system to work with our lifestyle we don’t want to live in a sealed up Tupperware box, I have read so many comments on how quite there new house is and I fully agree now our windows are in its silent in side, so I know what that means come May- June the kitchen window will be open and also the back door, the door will be open to let the dogs run in and out and the windows will be open so the wife can hear the birds as she bakes a cake in the kitchen. So how do we make this situation work, i want. Good extraction from wet rooms good extraction from laundry room good extraction from kitchen extractor. Is there a system that will sit in very very low mode and boost up when you enter the bathroom, or a boost switch in the laundry for when the back door is shut. Do you think Hinks mvhr is right for us or do we look at alternatives, confused as usual i much prefer just digging holes.

I would look at second hand. I sold an ELU sliding mitre saw for £50, the bloke text ted me a week later to say thank you as he hadn’t realised at the time how good it was, I was just glad it wasn’t cluttering up the garage anymore.

Go and hire a positive placement nailer. I nailed in a couple of thousand nails in two days. Best £60 ever.

I have a 1000kg scissor lift on mine at the moment.

You could use it no different to any other house interior before final screed goes on just be aware of what you are loading onto it and keep well under its load capacity.

Seen the price of it. ?

They will have it in electronic format, they then put the data in to their total station (setting out machine) when they get to site the total station has all the measurements stored in it they stand in one position and shoot the measurements across the site. You could do the job and not even get a tape measure out of his tool box. My house has something like 11 external angles and 8 internal ones, it was all set out on this machine, not one tape measure or set square even on site.

Don’t they do a plastic box thing that is angled, so you mount the panel on the angled bit and put either concrete blocks or gravel on the flat bit to anchor it down.

You should have a SITE LAYOUT EXISTING. you should have. SITE LAYOUT PROPOSED. both of these would be needed for planning consent, you could not get planning without having the proposed site plan, so in effect you already have everything. It just either needs dimensions putting on it or some form of reference for location a drawing is not good enough to measure off. your architect will have all this information digitally, it will take him 2 minutes to add dimensions and forward it on to your contractor. Get on the phone and give him a big earful. He should have all your site plans in layers so he can add and remove layers depending on what you need to view.

Had quotes from weru and neuffer, both where dearer than internorm. The weru stuff is very nice, but is it 25% nicer.

If you are worried about u value of foam, then buy better foam i have just started using products by ILLBRUCK, 10 times better than the normal stuff. It’s got a tighter cell so drys to form a far more compact blob.

A couple of hours with a site surveying team should have all that sorted. Have you had a topo done ? if so talk to a surveying company, and send it all over to them you should have all this info on your drawings. It it just sounds like they want it transferred to site so they are not responsible for putting your house in the wrong position.

Thanks all, what I should add is my father in law is actually a retired electrician, however he’s been retired now for 10 years and lacks any current paperwork. So I would like to get him up to speed and then get somebody with the correct paperwork to come and do a few inspections as we go to make sure they are 100% happy, and then help with second fix and do all the fiddly bits. I will have a read up. Cheers.

You will definitely need to check on maximum allowable opening sizes for each make. We thought we would have 1800-900 top hung but found they where too heavy so had to reduce size to 1600-900. Have you remembered what I mentioned regarding ally clad upvc, in that the opening inside is white instead of anthracite, this was a deal breaker for us so didn’t go any further with internorm.

So today openreach where out in the street putting a new cable up the poles in front of our place, being a nosey bugger I went and asked what it was. Turns out it’s a new fibre cable. But only getting rolled out to business users. Ok that’s cool we will be running a business from the new house so not a problem does anybody have a business contract and what sort of costs are involved i do intend phoning BT but thought it would be good to have some info before I get told a load of bs. Cheers all.

You can buy a STITCHING kit it consists of stainless steel rod and epoxy glue, the proper way would be to tooth out every other brick and bond the new ones back in, however no matter how you try you won’t be able to poke the mortar in as well as it was previously i would go for a mix of chopping out and drilling and bonding in the rods with the epoxy. I would probably use a metal mesh over the join when rendering.

Can anybody point me in the right direction regarding the different methods of getting my electrical work passed. I want to avoid just having a company in to do the whole lot and would rather find somebody who will work with me so I can do some donkey work i would like to do the cable laying out, fit boxes and all menial tasks but before I speak to a couple of electricians I wanted to know the correct procedures. Thanks russ.

Get the little fitting for your screw gun so all screws go in nice and flush. And not over depth.

How would you feel if you were the customer from the previous job, your job is over running and your contractor says to you sorry we cannot do all the extras you want as we have to go and start another job. Unless you have worked in this industry I don’t think anybody can understand the stress placed on contractors. Chill out.

I have used i joists for a small section of upper floor as they came free when I ordered all my roof timbers i have considered cutting them out and throwing them on the fire, the trouble I’m having trying to get all my services running through them is untrue, by the time I’ve finished with ducts for mvhr pipes for water and cables for electric yhey will look like Swiss cheese. If you will have lots of services I would go with the metal web joists.

That’s it. Make sure you tie the laps well, in case they pop up as somebody stands in the middle.

Minimum cover to protect steel from corrosion, and to allow correct strength to be achieved. It can sit lower, but then you don’t want it to close to the underside, how thick is your slab. 100mm???

Those cabinet legs come in two pieces, you just yank the tube bit out and attack it with a hacksaw then push it back in. You can chop it down to about 75mm.

My I beams 225x 75 were double the price of solid timber, but the benefits could be well worth the extra cost. If you use 145 solid timber you have got to add extra insulation if you go with a wider I joist you can get more cheaper insulation in instead of the expensive pir. Lots of lots of sums to to do and at the end of the day you just have to make a choice.

As far as I’m aware your smallest I joist would be 195mm so a bit bigger than your solid timber, and these will be a pain to fit pir into