Russell griffiths

Have you not got building regs sign off for this, surely it’s in the drawings that the structural engineer did. Not something you should be asking on a forum in my opinion.

Exactly that, I’ve left a void to have soil pipes hidden and stub stack, so toilet will sit in front of this false wall, so if I can stick the cistern in the void then I should be able to save 200mm, which is good here as it’s going to be the toilet that is for disabled access ??‍♂️?‍♂️

Spot on chaps ?? I didn’t really put a lot of thought into it, that’s exactly what I need.

We have funny water, I don’t know if you call it hard or limescale but our kettle fills up with stuff you would normally find in an underground cave. Im interested in protecting our water system in the house and stopping staining on things, the staining on taps I can live with it just means we need to clean more. The wife personally hates softened water as it does weird stuff to her shampoo and other girly stuff im more looking at the protection side of things, all ufh is in plastic and all pipework in house will be plastic it’s the cylinder and manifolds and ASHP I’m worried about, is there another way to protect stuff. Ta very much.

Now I personally hate them but due to space saving I need to fit a toilet with a hidden cistern, I know the name gerberit is one I see on here a lot can anybody point me at things to look at, do they all do the same job i would like the toilet to sit on the floor not wall mount, so just a back to wall pan needed any things to look out for.

This is my thoughts, I was going to go 28mm with 15mm t. Overkill or pukka

Anybody got any good prices on these lately, I’m after the metal version with the isolators on them. Cheers peeps.

Do more research. Felt would be my last choice. I did one evening, two hours and have found two likely products I will use. Have a look on you tube, Steve flat roofer, London, he does a lot of videos on failed roofs. I always like to look at stuff that doesn’t work. I have been on lots lots of office buildings in the past with old flat roofs done in felt and noticed how relatively light stuff has sunken into the surface over time, I have seen a 5 litre bucket sunken 6-8mm into the surface just by being up on the roof for 2-3 summers.

Evening, just planning out all my hot and cold points around the house. I plan to use a manifold distribution system and if I run a singular pipe to all points in the house I end up with 16 ports needed on the cold manifold, now I can reduce this by having a couple of toilets teed from a basin pipe, or is 16 a nice happy number and I should just carry on. I have a big long wall to put the manifold on so that’s not an issue.

our topo was £1200, half acre plot over 1000 points plotted, invaluable piece of information if you then use the same surveyor for setting out. Trees and hedges, as has been said, get the hedge removed now it is not bird nesting season, once you hit March you won’t be able to remove it regardless of if you have consent or not. If you haven’t removed it by March ensure you cover it in netting to prevent bird nesting or it could cost you 6 months before you can remove it again. Trees, if you like them ok, if not look at getting them removed early, check for TPO and conservation areas.

Bit late know, but I thought 19mm batten didn’t comply with latest building regs, structurally unsafe to walk on. .??.

Are you sure you need all them, who said you would, it’s an extension so you already have a house to measure from. Unless the land is very uneven surely it will be set out from the house with floor level finishing level with existing.

Yes rough as fook that was. By the time he did that base you could have installed an insulated slab. What video is this Amy bird in I had a good look @Onoff but couldn’t find her ?

You can get a single part product that sets with moisture in the air, it still has a mesh membrane, I intend using this on my porch, I used grp before, but not this time due to damp conditions.

I had to buy a whole pack of XPS 500 it was only £75 and did one 5m patio door and two single doors.

Why not use a clear preserver first on all sides before fitting.

How will you stop those feet sinking into a felt roof in hot weather definitely GRP.

Good god NO just fill it back in and get on to the next job.

If you think you will be building the internal stud walls then yes I would get one. On a different theme, if now your roof is going to take a bit longer make sure your trusses are stacked flat, they have a habit of going funny shapes. Can you not get a crew crew of two lads who do it all day long to chuck them up for you one weekend and let you finish off some fiddly bits. There is a Facebook site called timberframe jobs, it always has people advertising for crews.

Will you be putting on the roof battens ? will you be building the internal stud walls ? apart from those two jobs I wouldn’t bother, I cannot see your roof being overly heavy in the nail dept, if the trusses are all pre fabricated then it will be a lot of truss clips and bracing i like tools so I have just brought the new dewalt one, just depends if you can justify £450-600.

I ran 32mm mdpe water pipe in 80mm duct, it allowed for insulation around the pipe at the point it comes up through floor, you will pull 25mm in with your eyes closed. 110mm underslab, don’t run small 40-50mm under there.

Seen it done to build a swimming pool sprayed it on, high pressure 30-40mm hose, small stones in the mix one man spraying, one holding the hose behind him as it kicks a bit, then they let it go off for half an hour and scrape it back flat.

Why not put a drain in the plant room. It will cost pennies, and take an extra couple of hours that’s all, better to have it than to need it. I have just changed 20m of 32mm water pipe and pulled and pushed it through the duct, two man job but very straightforward, install all ducts with pull cords in them or get one of the tools BT for pulling cables through, since buying the cable pulling tool I no longer need to leave pull cords in as I can push the fibreglass rod 50m through a duct.

That spec looks like a poor loft conversion in the 90,s, it will be cold. Unless some serious internal insulation is done as well as good air sealing.

My other place was boarded with sheets that went from wall to wall no butt joins so a 4.7m long wall had a 4.8m sheet used, fitted across the wall so one tapered join at 1200 high. I used boards on my ceiling that where 1200x 6000 England is just not set up for this style of boarding. I think i had 3 butt joins in the whole house, you can buy a butt joining strip in America, it is a piece of OSB that you screw on a butt join, it is tapered so it bends the board inwards to allow jointing compound to fit in the recess.