Russell griffiths

I didn’t submit any drawings from an architect everything was basically as you say prepared by others and just neatly put into a big document. Piling drawings and specification by piling co ringbeam layout, steel schedule, loadings by piling co. Wall spec from manufacturers wall reinforcement from structural engineer roof design by timberframe co condensation risk, by insulation co drainage by co that did our flood risk assessment. Sap assessment,, blah blah blah the list goes on, it’s all available to you just depends how complicated your house is and how much you want to get involved, if you don’t mind a couple of weeks of collecting files and formatting it. It all got packaged up, nothing to add by architect unless you have finicky details that you need to point out, but these really need giving to the guys on site, so you can get the technical details from manufacturers and print it off yourself. Building control will soon soon tell you what they are missing.

I don’t think anybody would price this by the m i would look at it in days, I would look and think day up to damp, mess about drilling, couple of days until we need a hop up, mess about with trestles could I do it in a week?NO so what about 7 days ?Maybe , so shall I put 10 on it to be on the safe side. Yep, that’s about how much thought your average bricky would put in, very little measuring. Just a stab at an estimate based on previous jobs and estimated pain in the arse factor.

I hate all this talk of so much a metre, your job is small and fiddly, if you put 10,000m in front of a co it might get their interest, 10 days work doesn’t really get you any discount. I would look at peters prices and add 30% as he seams to live in the cheapest part of England I’ve ever come across. How are you tying into the house, starter profiles being screwed on, who fits this? how much a m you paying for that ? lots of other stuff to take into account, you cannot just get a book out and say it’s so many m, what is the going rate for cutting up a gable, how are you getting the correct shape for the gable? do you have trusses there to work from, who is going to lift the truss up and fit in place so they can cut to it ? What about piers, your not building a single skin block wall 5m long without piers, how much did you allow for this??? thats probably a £15-18000 garage, so I don’t think it’s that bad really.

This is the add.

Solar panels for sale by me, are they suitable for a home install i think they are £10 a panel.

Not wanting to slag off your job. Why do people not paint the plantroom behind manifolds before they fit them. Baffles me.

It does depend It does depend, he might be sick of customers who either don’t know what they want or think they have got the stuff and haven’t a day job can turn into two with a bit of faffing about chucked in. Its ok expecting him to just grab some bits when he’s at the merchants, but you cannot physically get a job done if driving about. I can see his side of things.

Picture would help, pipe run all depends on the depth the original drain is at, you generally go through a foundation at the depth the pipe needs to be with a lintel over the top of it.

This does all depend on how he is getting paid, would you want to spend your time running around picking up parts if the customer was meant to have supplied it, your a bit quick to jump on the bloke without knowing the facts.

Tbh I have a very nice oil burner sitting here that I had fitted a year before we knocked the old place down. Nod nod wink wink.

Ok I will say it, if you had all this heating system put in for free why not chop the ASHP off and install an oil boiler. At least you have got all the rads and pipework installed.

@ZacP site is just down the road from me @PeterW a mountain goat with a spade is his best bet for footings. A crane is completely out of the question, it’s definitely a job for a lightweight hand movable solution its in an area that the clutch on my truck starts to break out in a sweat if I type the address in the sat nav. . But cracking views across the valley.

I think looking at your site the Lewis deck on posi joists is the way to go.

You need to allow for a suspended ceiling underneath the block n beam, the type of thing that is metal track work with plasterboard screwed to it, not ceiling tiles like an office. All services get hung underneath and then hidden, where as you poke the services through the posi joists. With such a small area you can choose whatever you want really but you won’t want to bring in a forklift for an hours job. You can step out the concrete in your block wall to sit joists on, or use a larger width block for lower down, then fill with concrete, then fit joists, then step back in to a standard block for upper storey. I wouldn't want to hang joists from a ledger board unless it is built into the wall rather than hung from the wall on bolts. Lots of vids on YouTube. Look at other manufacturers for ideas, some companies internet profile is terrible

I believe, equestrian buildings are hard to get consent to convert but agricultural is easier. Dont quote me on that, but I’m sure I’ve read it that way.

How is it effecting you ??

Do you actually have a thermometer in the rooms, put one in every room and take a few readings. Im in my new place in a t shirt with no heating whatsoever and the front door open, and it sits at 15-16 constantly. My father in law sits in my old place with the heating on at 23-24 and moans he is cold. Get some figures going.

Have you priced beam n block, I found it to be one thing I brought that surprised me how cheap it was. But you would need mechanical handling to get it in place. Have you looked at lewis deck on steel joists as opposed to timber, I think that’s how I would do it.

I have two floor sockets planned but I’m hoping to hide them, I am a hater of cables on show. I plan to do this, stupid or not I don’t really care it’s my place. I will have two side tables either end of a sofa on the table will be a lamp, the cord for the lamp will run down the leg of the table into a fake leather look box thing that sits between the legs of the table, the bottom of this box will be removed and will sit directly above a single 5amp floor socket, this socket will be connected to a wall switch.

If you have a team putting up the icf then you could just use that as no other trades involved, or you will need bricklayers t build them up in blockwork, if you have a contractor that does both then no problem. I have two internal load bearing walls of icf, so in effect have a house inside a house, the feel to this inner area is just silent as it’s isolated from the outside on two sides. I thought about it for weeks and weeks what to use and in the end got fed up of trying to work out the cost difference, in the grand scheme of things you either buy more icf or you pay a bricky. trying to work out if one is £500 cheaper I think is a waste of effort, there are some big cost differences that are glaringly obvious, these are the ones to concentrate on. Lewis deck with screed on top will be substantially more money than joists and chipboard flooring.

Yep, same as he said. Club hammer, long cold chisel, big right arm.

All good ideas, but if you want to do it properly your local concrete ready mix company will do a product called flowable fill, it’s a very weak mix that flows out the back of a redymix truck, used for filling voids and around pipes and stuff.

Get another design and quote and compare the two. If there attic trusses surely the load would be would be the same for any habitable space.

Have you had this done after plasterboard, I’m thinking of doing mine beforehand so I can remedy anything. Any thoughts.

Are you friendly with your neighbours? if so crack on, and wait for the flack, it may never come.