Russell griffiths

If this is run in copper to outside, how do you finish it outside, and what should it drain into.

Wasn’t me honest guv.

@PeterW so are you basically saying if I have a wall with a door in it that has a 10mm gap underneath for the mvhr to work better the wall insulation becomes a waste of time, as sound transfer will be through the door itself as well as the gap under the door.

Morning can anybody point me at building regs for sound insulation between rooms in timber stud walls. If a wall is built using 88mm cls timber then I’m going to struggle to get 100mm in, so is 75mm sound slab enough walls will have 11mm osb both sides and then plasterboard, happy to upgrade plasterboard if it’s needed. What are the regs on ceilings between rooms I have 225mm deep joists so far more room in there.

So you basically did it a bit dodgy to save money and now you’ve found out it’s going to bite you on the arse. Its very simple to sort out but it’s going to cost you the money you think you saved the first time around at this time they don’t hang people for doing non building regs work, but they will if you let anybody sleep up in that room and there is an accident, then the poo will really hit the fan. I would either, get an architect around to draw up a list of everything that is wrong so you are prepared, or go straight to the council and tell them what you have done, there will be a few fees to pay for inspections, but at least you will have a building you can use. You can also choose to do nothing, but it will only be able to be used as a storage area whatever you do, do not rent it out.

So let’s say you don’t fancy taking it down why not buy a dozen 4m lengths of rsj dig a metre square hole next to each steel leg and put the rsj in, fill with concrete get a mobile welder out to weld some cross bracing in between the two chunks of steel so in effect you can completely undermine the whole barn dig out what you need, pour your preferred floor then cut off the temporary supports re bolting the steel legs back onto the new floor cut the temporary rsj down to ground level bobs your mothers brother.

I’m a bit baffled by a lot of this class Q stuff. Can you iron out a few things for me. I applied for full planning and had a site meeting with the planners, 3 months later we had planning, since that day I have not seen a single person from the planning dept. The next man on site was building control to inspect our foundations. So bear with me here. You get the foundation design you want passed by building control, you then take down the steel frame completely, excavate out pour the foundation you want and put the frame back up. I bet the building regs guy wouldn't give a hoot the frame wasn’t there. Am I missing something.

They look good, is the program easy to use, I’m a bit thick you see. I like diggers and nailing things together i noticed it said trial version, any pointers to getting this, do I need to tell a few porkies as I fill in registration forms or anything.

I fully understand that, but common sense will tell you that a leaky old cottage is not going to be heated by ASHP, not unless he has a big row of them.

As others have said, shore it up now before it comes down, get the outer leaf up. You wouldn't normally build higher than a lift, so basically as high as you can reach then the scaffold co come in, to go 3.5m you must be on some scaffolding of some sort. As it’s still up now I think you have dodged a bullet.

How about those concrete Lego blocks somebody did a wall recently in them, not very pretty but if it’s not that visible

@SteamyTea I don’t think there is any point in heat loss calcs, as you know the answer already. Stone built cottage on 3 sides, standard building regs extension on 4th side, house beside a stream in Wales even I can work that one out. Soloution big AGA.

I think my build will now slow down a bit if yours is done, it’s your funny little mishaps that keep me jolly, as I’m walking across those joists I often picture you stuck in the gap and feel all warm inside. Oh my life is pointless now. ?

As peter said, steel supplier does a mesh support that is shaped like a z, you can squish them down a bit if needed. I would also use mars bars wherever you can as the plastic spacers crush if stood on by a fat concreter.

I have a kubota 1-5 tonne machine, but I bought a high spec one so it punches well above its weight it has has a wide track base so is very stable, but the tracks retract in so it will fit through a 1m opening it has zero tail swing so I can work up against a wall without knocking it down i never use it without it impressing me, I have pulled things and pushed things that others have said I would never do.

Never, I have both, the excavator got used nearly every day for probably the first 8-10 weeks, the telehandler gets used for an hour a fortnight and now the shell is up it won’t be used again.

Look at a 3 tonne plus machine

Well done old boy amazing what you can achieve with only 8 fingers. ??

As Tony said, you buy a 600mm wide dpc and put this under the frame, leave it draping onto the block n beam, then later on you install the dpm and join the two with tape. Of more concern is what he has drawn to stop the sole plate getting cold, you mention a row of bricks, this should be improved to prevent the cold causing the sill to rot out.

Oh god, made a cock up read your post to quickly, i had assumed your insulation was a rockwool type fluffy bat when it is actually pir board. In that case I would change that duct to the oval stuff and chop it into the second layer of pir under the plasterboard. Having removed 50mm of insulation in a small strip will not make any difference to heat loss. Its the lack of vapour control that is the issue.

Having thought a bit more, you wouldn’t need to cut out the pir to fit the duct, just push the duct into the other insulation. I would still up the other insulation to 200mm and check what you are doing for a vapour control layer.

Can anybody explain how they get rockwool out from a cavity.

I’ve owned a number of diggers over the years but they have all been shiny and new. This time I needed an older one as it would only be for personal use, I found that there was a couple of sweet spots for pricing £10-12 grand will hold a great deal of money and you will sell them without losing a huge amount if you kept it for two years. £7-8 grand exactly the same as above still good and will have a good re sale below £5 grand was just trouble, getting old and tired, still loads of life but more problems starting to appear. I would stick to kubota, yanmar, hitachi you might find the re sale on the Chinese one is a lot less and you will take a big hit as the first owner. Remember the vat, you cannot claim this back unless you obviously buy it through a vat registered company.

I’m not 100% sold on your roof build up. 1.. I don’t believe you need to leave the 50mm void between insulation and your sarking board. As you have a ventilation gap above the boards. I’m happy to be told I’m wrong. 2. What is providing your vapour control layer ? so why not use standard pir under the rafters instead of insulated plaster in the area of the duct and bring the duct closer to the surface so it has full insulation behind it and only a strip of pir missing where the duct is.

Hammer and chisel, lots of damage. No more damage than 50 holes, if you screwed them on.