Declan52

You need a proper base for artificial grass. You will need some well compacted hardcore , depending on the soil that is there, you will need a min of 200mm. Then you screed 30mm sharp sand so it's perfectly level. Any tiny bump or dent will show up and look nasty. You then lay the weed membrane onto the sand and roll the grass out. For the edging you will need something to give it a fixing point. I used treated 2*2 bedded around the edge then used decking screws to fix the grass to the batten. I tried to use the large hook type but they where crap. You have to leave it sitting for a few days after you roll it out to let it settle and during that time wind got under it and lifted the whole thing up and threw it against my fence. So it really needs fixed securely as it's not cheap. The easy way to do is is to use something like a sleeper or a 150mm fence post as an edging. Scrape the top soil of then that will give you enough depth for the hardcore. Saves a fair bit of digging out. Also gives you something to screw your batten to and a nice straight edge to work to. You will need plenty of Stanley blades. Cutting the grass blunts a blade every 2m of your lucky. Think I went through about 50 blades doing mine. Once the blade is blunt it just tears it and you won't get a nice clean cut for a join or for the edge. A

I used clear stixall for the joins in my artificial grass and it's kept them in place for over a year now. It's very good stuff .

It's just a cold spot on that part of the wall. Damp will then form here from condensation and the paint will start to peel. If you have access to a thermal camera then you could see if there are gaps behind the plasterboard letting cold in without having to remove anything. Zinsser do a paint that will cover the patch but then your only covering the issue and it will return in a few years.

As has been pointed out above you can make a fair bit of savings if your prepared to do a lot of the work yourself. But and it's a big but be realistic in what jobs you could actually do. If you have no experience in joinery then don't be attempting to put the roof on. Unless your a plumber or spark then best leave these to the pros. Just by lifting the phone and using Google you can save money researching different material choices for example. If you get a professional to do any job they won't care where the materials come from as long as they are there when they are needed but you will as your paying the bill.

For doing a scratch coat then a plaster finish then yes plastering sand all day long. It gives a rougher and tougher surface to which the finish coat will key to. For an external render like a dash top coat then yes it's the better option. But for a coloured render it will depend on the type of sand. Silver and white sand is a very fine sand so it's more like motar when you mix it. You could put a scratch coat of plastering sand on then a silver sand on top but you run the risk of the grey colour scratch coat affecting the top colour.

You can use snowcrete with different colours of sand to give you different variations in the final colour. You can use everything from white sand to silver sand and a mild yellow sand. Each will give you a very different colour. But things like white and silver sand depending on where your building might be hard to come by and thus might be expensive to source.

I'm a bit further down your path but with talk talk. Some days WiFi is good others it's rank poor. After a few heated exchanges on there online chat they eventually sent me a new router. Result new router was great for about a week then has slowly went back to how the previous one performed. Next option is either install a system like Google WiFi or ubiquity. So first question is how easily is this to do as the constant ear ache from my kids about poor WiFi is dining me insane!!!

What is the wall holding back??? I used this type of dry walling system on mine. https://professional.ag.uk.com/products/retaining-walls/anchor-diamond It can go to 3m high and requires no concrete base and it's a DIY job. The blocks are about 20kg each so it's heavy work but definitely doable.

Have you any showing a larger section of a wall

Post the pics.

If you use d4 glue on the floor it expands and will give you your airtight seal on the joints. Depending on what you're walls are going to be you need to seal the gap you leave between the floor and the wall. You can use tape for this. For the ceiling you could do something as simple as double boarding it and tape and seal the first layer to the walls. It will also help as a sound and fire barrier.

Treat it like two separate envelopes. The issue will be how you deal with the areas with the purple arrows. For attic truss I cut small squares of pir insulation then foamed them in place However when you have services going in and out of the joists then it's very tricky so I used pir and cut out holes where electric cables or plumbing pipes where then taped round them onto the insulation to get it sealed up. It's not an easy job because of where it is. I had the ceiling below boarded out and first fix all done so I could use the ceiling and flooring to help form the squares with the joists.

But if you have a sweep in your edging like has been done here then your always going to end up with various different size cuts. Curves in brick paving also looks a lot nicer than a series of lines. It also shows how much time and effort that @nod and his wife put into this job. Look at the size of some of them cuts, there tiny. I know a lot of guys who would have just filled them gaps with sand and walked away. Hats off to both of you. Are you going to seal it up with anything or let it weather first???

How fast flow rate is the stream. You could dam it a few metres back and use a pump and long hose and divert the flow into the culvert. Then dig down and reroute it. Is it already underneath the stream where it crosses it???

Why not just move the sewer.

The heat from the engine is what gets you.

There is no clips in the world that will level them tiles out.

Turn it round so the dent faces the wall.

I think they have put the brackets in the wrong position for slates. If you put the brackets on the correct position the window is recessed low enough so the tiles don't kick. If you put the brackets at the other fixing points then the window sits higher for normal tiles. Watch these installation videos and see the difference. https://www.velux.co.uk/professional/tools/installer/installation-videos The good thing is if you take the sash out it can all be redone from the inside of the house so they don't need on to the roof again.

Some carefully placed black tape on your number plate might help.

Lay them out both ways and stand back and see what suits your eye best. Then ask the wife to have a look and then talk it over and then do it the way she wants.

Why not just buy a condenser dryer. Any excess heat that it gives of can be rerouted through a mhrv system so you get it back. Plus you aren't putting a hole in the fabric of your house.

Is the wet patch on the actual dormer or under the tiles on the main roof.

It's a 2 sec job with a grinder.

I went with 3g uPVC from Munster joinery (baskil windows in Ni) and there isn't much I can say about them. They keep the wind and rain out the very best and so far over 5 years in they have give me no grief. Cost wise I didn't get any prices for aluclad as at the time the options here where really only upvc or timber. Aluclad where only seen in the self build shows so i hadn't any real world experience of them so didn't give them much of a thought. Not sure how a mixture of different windows would look though, have you seen this done on any other house???