Declan52

Don't forget that if you put a diagonal from the cantilever edge to the post then your beefing up an already very strong beam so going out 1m is well within its capacity.

I have a mixture of carpet, porcelain tiles and engineered Oak on my floors. When the heating is on you can feel the warmth on your bare feet through the tiles and Oak flooring after around 90 mins. Carpet is totally different as it doesn't really warm up to your touch but you can still feel warmth. If you choose carpet then you must get the lowest tog rating for the carpet and under felt or you will block any heat from getting through. I actually prefer the engineered flooring under foot. It just feels nicer to walk on than my tiles.

No wetter than here. Have seen posts sitting in plastic milk cartons with some gravel in the bottom and a few holes to let out any rain used before. Closest I have seen to a condom type contraption.

The posts will be on the brackets you had shown above. I'm talking about the other to pads where the horizontal beams are resting. Your only looking them up of the pad enough to allow air to get underneath.

Something as simple as a few pieces of slate would do. Your only looking it to not be sitting in water on the pads.

Are you sure your measurement of 1.5m of hardcore is correct??? And type 1 for this as well???

A fence post is meant to be outside it's whole life. You could always give it another few coats of whatever woodstain you have/intend to use. I would notch them but that's just me. More work but better strength and looks better.

So each post only has to carry ¼ of a tonne. A 6*6 post will be more then enough to carry that weight and much much more. The compressive strength of timber is very high. Do you plan to notch the supports so your beams rest on the timber or are you using bolts to take the weight???

Is it not easier to use a 6*6 fence post for the up rights. All you building is a basic deck and what's normally used is 3*3 or 4*4 fence posts. But as yours is carrying weight on just two areas I would use 6*6 posts. They are strong, cheap and readily available and are treated already. Then bolt them to you pad stones using brackets like @Onoff has above. It's just a simple deck.

Clean it out every 2 fills. If it starts catching on the nozzel then you have no chance of getting it out nice and creamy.

Are we still discussing Pinterest or in general.

You can complain as you are paying for a particular service. If you feel it's not up to a high enough standard like the OP then you have every right to complain. If you choose to use an architect then that's up to you. I had to use one as I needed him to certify each stage was built to the regs to satisfy my mortgage company before they would release the next sum of money. I had it all designed out and detailed myself so it was really only his signature I needed.

Then you can't really complain about them then. If you don't want to have self builders using your services then you charge the full price to cover your time and then it's up to them if they can afford you. Or you do take this type of work on under the full knowledge that you will have to dedicate more time than the bill will cover inorder to get their cheque. You can't have it both ways.

But the volume house builders are much more experienced so they have already asked the stupid questions 3/4/5 developments ago. I'm sure if a self build client came to you to do their plans you add on an extra expense to cover yourself time wise as you know they will need their hand held more often than a developer. I had no issues with my architect and found him more than approachable when I needed him to answer any questions I had.

Nothing wrong with letting the rage out every now and then. So where do you stand now as in have you a complete set of plans or what details are you missing to complete them. And no way would I be paying any extra money to any one to do what you originally tasked them to do in the first place.

Sort of. People put everything from curry recipes to how to build a deck to fashion to cocktail mixes. It's picture based so will give you more than enough light bulb moments where you go yeah look at that and that and by God I would really eat and drink that.

It's probably the best free app out there that gives you access to a vast library of ideas from cooking to building stuff.

Are you making this shed/cabin from scratch or buying a pre made version ???

Why not??? Put them in like this on the pic. If your worried about the strength of beam 1&2 then double it up. Or put a diagonal brace like the purple line on the pic. The line down the middle are your noggins.

Yes the span will be less.

The joists will be in hangers so can't move anywhere. The twist nails are for attaching the hangers to beam a , then you drop beam b into the hanger and fix the rest of the twist nails into beam b.

If this discussion is to continue could you please refrain from bringing it into the realms of personal attacks on another member. You are free to post whatever you like with regards how you think this specific term should be used and measured but constant digs won't be tolerated any more.

I would be pricing the bricks up myself to make sure he isn't creaming a bit of the top.

The first TF homes will built around 2002 where a piss take. We built the founds all in one go , about 20 sets of semis, and the timber frame company came out and measured up each plot. Not one frame did they get right. Most where too small and every single one was out of square and plumb so by the time we got to the wallplate height on the 2nd story there was near enough no cavity that you had to either cut the lip of the catnic or the back of the soldier course over the windows to get them in. Even though we had bonded it out in the red brick every window and door wasn't brickwork measurements. Cill heights and widths where all wrong. The site joiners spent more time altering each frame than doing their own work. More recently the brother in law moved into a TF house built around 2010 that had zero insulation on the gable wall. He couldn't figure out why his house was so cold. And for some balance I have seen block and brick houses that would bring tears to your eyes. Houses brick bonded out so wrong that the perps have moved that much that they ended up with a brick extra across the front. Walls so out of plumb and I mean maybe 100mm from floor to ceiling that you side step going by as they look like they are going to topple over. Lead trays put in to high so you end up with a soaker near 2ft high going up a wall. It's scary some of the things you see when your working on building sites.

Your too honest. I definitely would have added a bit to cover all the running around trying to sort it out.