Declan52

Is it not also to stop the build up of certain gases like radon gathering up underneath your floor. Obviously this will depend on the geological makeup of the area your building in.

That's a tidy bit of working out alright. It's still going to be free hand though which will take a fair bit of time to set out for a start then doing the actual building of the blocks.

Why did you not use 215mm joists as there is another 100mm left to the top of the timber you have bolted to the walls.

I have 18.7kwh today so far and it's still sitting at 450w now.

Can you not collect enough for a course or two so it can be bonded out properly so your openings are the correct distance for your bricks. You don't want the perps to be like a wavy line going up the wall.

What will the test results actually show. Will they show what you as a company want to show to provide sales of your product or is it a complete test incorporating all the questions that have been asked here. In the past some companies that sell a product that rely on independent test results don't fully test everything and leave out certain aspects so their product looks like the all singing all dancing answer to our prayers.

It's just how it's done.

Yep. The bars are to stop you going over the edge. The end plank for hammers and bricks falling on people's heads.

Put a plank on its edge. This will stop anything from dropping over the edge.

Can you connect up something temp to another outlet in a kitchen/utility room and test it just to eliminate the different circuits.

Not sure what you mean, can you put up a pic.

Is there a reducer on the shower head to limit the flow.

I bought a petrol mower from Screwfix and to put it bluntly it's a pile of crap. Paid extra to get the Honda version over the mountfield one. It comes with an automatic choke which is a wax plug which moves in and out depending on how warm or cold the engine is. Sometimes it heats up in secs others it could be 10 mins or sometimes it just chugs along choking itself out time after time until I crack up and put it away. The other thing is it will only run on bp ultimate petrol the most expensive in my town. Any other fuel and it just doesn't have the power to cut any length of grass. The mechanic who fixes mine says it's not a real honda but a chonda , a chinese made Honda copy type engine. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mountfield-sp53h-51cm-167cc-self-propelled-rotary-petrol-lawn-mower/976fy This is the newer model , mine is 2 years old and I leave the shed door open hoping some poor theif takes a liking to it but have had no luck so far.

If any thing should happen on your job and the accident involves the scaffolding the question that will be asked was who erected the scaffolding. Then it will be how competent where they as in are they a trained and qualified scaffolding person with all the up to date tickets. If you threw it up and never seen a scaffolding pole before you started the self build then your insurance will more than likely walk away leaving you in a world of shat. However if it's just going to be you on the scaffolding then most people, me included, just fire away. All your doing is rolling the dice and hope you don't get caught out.

Not many sets for sale and none of the usual scaffolding sites have any prices listed which doesn't usually bode well. Found these 2 entries on eBay. So you can get close to twice the amount for £1k less with kwikstage.

You just answered your own question. It's cheaper and more widely available.

You have to cut each block in half to get a curve anywhere near decent. Which is very time consuming. Building a radius with blocks can't be done with a line so having to cut each block plus build free hand you will be paying a massive premium to build in that shape. Then as @Russell griffiths also says how are you going to bend enough insulation around that shape so you get it to passiv standards.

Have you paid up fully for the windows. As in if you still have something left to pay them and assuming they are already made you could hopefully use this as a bit of leverage to get velfac to step in and sort you a new installation company out. The windows sitting in their factory will only be any good to you so with a bit of tears over the phone and some good will from them you might have a chance of coming out not to badly damaged.

Swap the twisted ones with either of the outside planks so your waking on good plank and all your materials are stacked nice and neat on the outside ones.

It's when you get blocks like yours that are 95mm but the concrete bricks they supply are 104mm that the fun starts.

One of these not do your job. https://www.roofingoutlet.co.uk/collections/slate-tile-vents/products/klober-profile-line-single-pantile-vent-all-colours

Would be cheaper and easier to put a room in the roof so you have 3 floors instead of the basement. The 3rd floor would have more useable space. Are you restricted with the height of your ridge??? What type of 100mm cavity wall insulation are you planning to use to meet building regs??

Like all wood it will twist in the sun.

But it's not squashy as you are spreading the weight of the concrete over a lot of sqm so the point load on any one area is small.

Has that not always been one of the salesman pitches in that It will heat up quicker. But does it heat up quicker because it's not made from sand and cement or because it will only be 50mm thick. And because it heats up quicker you turn your heating of quicker but it will also cool down quicker so you will turn your heating back on quicker. Any good screeder will pack the dry sand cement mix in against any ufh pipework when he is spreading it out so won't leave gaps around the pipes.