Declan52

Mine came through as a high c think it was a 79. But I did no air pressure test so my result was put into the computer as 15 air changes per HR which means my house has no windows or doors!!! Makes no different to any one as in the long run it's just another tick in another box that you need to do.

You only use 6 X 9 inch block for pig houses. Can you not use soapbars instead like these https://stowellconcrete.co.uk/concrete-soap-bar-blocks/ All the walls you build should be plumb no matter where they are. Your only make more work for every one else who follows you and then you will get a bad name for untidy work. Your arms will get used to the lifting and your skin will soon toughen up. The motar should be the same as an ordinary block. Nice and creamy so you can tap the block down but not soft enough that it sinks.

My youngest does gymnastics at a fairly gd level so a simple walk across the room to turn the light out ends up being a roll and a flip and a loud bang when she lands. If some one would have given us the option of a floor separating us I would have bit your hand of. All kids are noisy so a bit of space will be a good thing.

How heavy is the sky light that you need to crane it in???

Nice With vodka and rum never tried it in a toliet though, to expensive for that use. As Peter says the cheapest nastiest coke you can buy.

Full fat coke a cola and wd 40. Let the coke sit in the pan and the acid in it eats away. Flush and repeat till only the hard bits left. Spray wd 40 and use a toliet brush to scrub it.

I think I have broke maybe half of the plug type things the bolts that hold the front panel on attach to. They are a very flimsy piece of metal with threads to hold the bolt that more or less just sit there in a plastic slot. It would have took very little effort or cost to change these to some sort of proper fixing method. I have a nut wedged into the slot that will take the bolt but if the plastic slot breaks then I'm probably going to have to use something as basic as a few luggage ratchet straps to keep the front cover on. It would be my only issue with it.

Kind of baffling why a supposedly innovative company like sunamp would partner up with another company who has such a bad reputation. It doesn't take much of an effort to Google them and find out the kind of tactics they use. It can only affect them in a bad way long term. How long before BBC watchdog are doing a sting on them.

On the programme four in the bed on wed the couple hosting ran a luxury out door experience type set up but was in mobile homes. They where finished to a very high standard with a hot tub and the rest . They mentioned the price they charge but I can't remember what it was though.

You could put in another length of the channel out from your existing run so it's a T shape to try to collect as much as you can. But I would try rodding that run first. If it clears then you will need to put a mesh basket to collect all the crap so it doesn't block it again. One of these things will do your job. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/aco-hexdrain-channel-drain-end-caps-outlet-accessories-pack.html

At the corners from bottom to the top so from ground floor to the roof. If it's a 2 storey then along where the joists are right round the building. What your trying to do is stop any fire from spreading. So it can't get up the cavity and into the roof or can't get from one side of the building to the other via the cavity.

Where does your channel drain to??? Looking at the pic the water is sitting over your channel so it isn't draining anywhere. Have you checked the end of the run in the channel to see if it's clogged with leaves and crap. If this is clean you might need to rod it to the nearest manhole as it might be blocked some where in between.

I used Kerr's as well. They have a few branches with your closet being in ballynahinch.

The guy on the video is using a float to rub it up. His looks a bit funny because he has been using it for about 30 years so it's well worn in. The other is just a large finishing trowel. Again it's got a great finish on it as it's been polishing floors for a long time. Your brand new trowel won't get it like that. If you have never worked with concrete liked this before your setting yourself up for a major fall. With wet concrete the time you have to work with it is tiny. One minute it's too wet the next it's too dry. Or its been sent out too wet and your there till 3am before you can touch it. I would price up using a dry screed mix. Much easier to work with than a wet mix. And don't underestimate how much work physically it is. You will need some guys just bringing the concrete in and raking it out while the main guy gets it level. If you think you can rake it out and then level it out you will be clean busted before you start the trowel bit. Most of the guys I know who do screeding have shoulders like Olympic weightlifters.

It will require a fair amount of work and cost but frees up the complete room. Price it up Put the boiler out beside the tank in a galvanized house like these. https://www.raygrahams.com/products/119149-galvanised-boiler-house.aspx Then it's only the feed and return you need to bring into the house. Under no circumstances would I ever ever put an oil burner inside a house. If it leaks your in deep deep shat.

The pillar will have to be engineered out. It will make a massive difference to how that room works. I would definitely try to move the boiler room. If you go something like this then it opens the space up more and will let much much natural light come in from the south facing Windows. So you end up with a L shape for the kitchen with the island as big as you can get but still have 1m min all round both sides the units are on. Or you could extend more units along the boiler room wall into a U shape and come across where the island is on my pic. Then you can have a wider worktop to allow a seating area. How many units and how big your island can be will depend on how much you can squeezee the boiler room. If you can get it to 2m wide this will give you 4.3m to play with. At present you have 3.5m which will just be enough to get an island in with enough space to walk round. If you leave 1m each side plus the kitchen unit that gives you a width of 2.6m so your island can only be 900mm wide. If you make the island wider then the space either side is reduced and will feel cramped. The stove could go where the green box is so it's easier to vent outside.

You use concrete as it can store heat very well but also you get the added bonus that you can walk on it. Water is a great material for storing heat but wouldn't be the best choice for a floor. The problem with using the term thermal mass as has been explained countless times is you can't measure it as there is no unit in science for doing so. So while everyone knows what you mean it's just not the correct term .

Yep but the lime helps this.

I built mine using lightweight blocks and mixed it all 3 to 1 . Why would you mix 6 to 1.

We could do a full lift on most houses, seven course of block and either the brick or block on the outside each day, so it was in our interests to use good motar as we had to build on top of it the next day. If you had used weak motar then no chance you could keep the wall above plum if the one below was still moving about.

In over 15 years of filling a mixer I just kept the mix the same strength. It was always 1 bag cement to 3 sand. Why would you want to skimp on a few bags of cement over the cost of a build.

I think if Jan put a price in for £5k she could get the job.

If you go for a brick finish the choice of cement and sand is very important. Each different colour of cement, grey Portland or white, mixed with the vast choice you have in sand colours will give you a multitude of options for your motar colour. Put it like this go through every option you can make, write it down then wait 2 weeks and go back and see what you have changed then go back in another 2 weeks and you will have changed more and another 2 weeks and so on and so on. That is one of the best things and quite possibly the worst thing about doing a self build. You can change everything that goes in to your build and you will change everything lots and lots of time because you can. Oh and you will definitely change your mind on the different types of screws and once it's finished you will have moved away from the screw you can turn with a butter knife type and the X one.

You will have a gap round the edge where you can squeezee it through.

Once the joists go in will you not put your flooring down though which will offer a bit of protection. A few sheets of dpm and some sand will help to cover it up and keep the floor protected if your not going for one of the waterproof type boards.