Declan52

How are you putting the concrete into the trenchs , digger bucket, wheel barrow or pump?? Unless the steel is tied together if you tip a load of concrete into the trench it will tip the L bars over. Could you buy some lengths of 5mm bar and put a strip at the bottom and top so you end up with maybe a 2m long bit of steel cage that will be much quicker to drop in during the pour. The top length of 10mm can be reused if needs be. This is how I seen it being done on a ring beam.

If you know someone who would buy his house he would be there in a shot.

I have the sensio socket as well and I think it's great. My socket is in the middle of the island so all power leads are impossible to snag on which with young kids who run about like lunatics is a major advantage.

Spent most of my childhood summers in Newcastle at shannaghmore. Welcome and good luck.

Tobermore have their version but I got mine from Acheson and Glover as I had an account there from buying blocks from them. They have a display at their base in Dungannon. https://www.ag.uk.com/outside-rooms/products/garden-walling-products

My hob is on my island and I find it better as there is plenty of room to set ingredients beside you as you cook. Only con would maybe be extra work and planning getting the likes of cables and ducting to it but it's not much extra. All down to how you want your kitchen to work for you. My island is 2.2m *1m as I love cooking and baking so gives me plenty of room to make a mess. Also gives me a lovely area to sit round and chat when we are having a party.

I used a dry build type block to construct my retaining wall. The blocks are 450*300*150. You don't need a concrete founds just a good sound base of compacted hardcore. The way they lock together they lean back at approx 80 degrees. That complete wall is over 20m long and at its highest 1.4m and I done it all in a day. Cost wise I think it was approx £600 just got the main retaining wall. The smaller wall facing you on the picture used a smaller block as they aren't suitable for the height you need to go. For a block wall 1m high I would start with a course 450mm wide then 2 courses at 330mm then a 215mm and then your coping. The most important aspect of any retaining wall is how you get rid of the water that will pool behind it. You need a French drain type system with a fine gravel behind the wall.

I liked the IKEA one. Pretty basic but easy to use to get the basic layout how you want it.

It's a warm gathering of holy people.

Free drill or radio for any one. http://www.hotukdeals.com/freebies/free-milwaukee-radio-drill-sign-up-howdens-trade-account-2608892

Vertigo was bad that day.

Not sure why you tagged me in this Terry but I did get my site from my mum so did go through this kind of process. We got the land registry drawing and drew a line on the plan where we wanted the boundary and sent it off. The Solictor dealt with all the legal bits. Just make sure you include that you need access to connect into any services, gas, electric,water or sewage if you need to other wise when the time comes you could get held to ransom.

Just don't put them in like this.

Putty is easy to work with as well.

There is a guy lives near me does them splashbacks. You basically go onto https://m.shutterstock.com/search?q=chilli Pick a picture and he makes it into a splashback for you. We have been looking for a picture we both agree on and 6 months in we haven't found one.

Theres only one shade of beige, the colour of a geography teachers suit.

You move into a house that is maybe 90% of what you have always wanted a house to be to work for you and how you live. Or you buy a standard builders house and spend the next 20 years rearranging it to get to maybe 60% of what you want and then realise it just doesn't work so have to move again. That's why we self build.

Skimmed plaster board is airtight and would work but when it starts to crack then your relying on pollyfiila to keep the heat in.

Yeah don't listen to the beige brigade.

I would have hid a cryptic word in using shinny coins.

Seen it earlier on YouTube

Not really meant to burn anything with loads glue in it like plywood or worktop, I take it it's not solid oak worktop you are burning. MDF doesn't really burn due to the amount of glue and resins in it either unless the fire is at blast furnace setting. All the above glue is not good for your liner.

Don't have the bottom of the post touching the ground. I set mine on a bed of concrete then filled all round them so they are sealed all around. I think it your fence posts only last 5 years then you have been sold pure crap.

Twin turbo is what it stands for here.

Something about TT and TS and ground spikes and wires and other stuff that is way over my head.