Declan52

Trail pits are the first and cheapest stage. If as you say rock is shallow then you are laughing. Hire out a 3 T digger so you will be able to dig down to over 2.5m depending on the make of the digger. If it's something like mudstone then a 1.5t digger would struggle to dig it out. You will then be able to scrape some of the weathered rock for samples. Take a sample of the clay at each time it changes and scrape up the face with the teeth so you can get a good picture of the different soil types. Also record any water strikes. If rock is that shallow you won't need to go down the borehole route unless it's a peat bog sitting on top.

Have you had a look on the dell outlet. They change all the time. I am looking for one at the min but am holding out till next week in hope there are offers on them as well as laptops.

Dell are doing a basic laptop for £129 and an upgraded system for £199.

You have your own digger so that's digging it out sorted. Have you somewhere where you can put all the spoil or does it need took away. After that any roads etc getting dug up near you as that's the best stuff to use. Most companies pay to tip it so if you had a hole that needed filled then your on a winner. If not then buy in the stone, just a bullet you will have to bite. Hire a sit on roller for a day for the top compaction. The rest you will give it a squeeze when you track over it. should save you a few quid. Roughly 200 m3 is 400 tonne so it's not that much. 20 lorry loads. I think i put 12 loads of hardcore in my founds.

Get in contact with SSE again and ask for a breakdown in the costs and from there you will get a better idea of the savings that could be made. It's the road crossing that you will make any savings on. What type of road is it, as in is it a country lane or a dual carriageway??

Oh I would love a go on that!!! Must be close on 30t weight with all them attachments on the boom. When it comes to diggers size is most def everything.

Never seen piling like that before but my god that looks cool. Must be some size of a rig with a lot of torque to do that kind of job.

I first put a weak coat of pva on the floor just to keep the dust down and when I was ready, 2 months later, I used a primer.

How deep will depend on how high the outfeed from your digester sits and how much fall you need to get to the steam. Min of 1m I would reckon so the farmer can more or less do whatever he wants with the field with no risk of hitting your pipe.

Well done for keeping the fight going. If the council thinks you have got one over them will they not try to nail you over something else during the build.

That's why nick became a plumber.

I used the sika for the same setup and have had no problems two years down the line. Think I only paid £30 a tub though. It's seriously sticky stuff, you only have maybe at a push 1 min to get the board into place and make sure it's good other wise you will need a spade to get it off the concrete.

Take out the rubber seal in the duct so if in the billion to one chance it bursts water can escape.

Grip it with your nail pulling tool and wiggle it forward and back and it will snap or just buy the tin snips.

Can you set it up so the oil burner is the boss so you set it when it comes on, say early in the morning and the evening. That's how I work my stove instead of the stat dropping below set point calling for heat and making the stove fire up. Now if it calls for heat it takes what it needs from the thermal store and if it runs it cold so be it. We shower in the evening anyway so it doesn't bother me if the water is cold at lunch time. When it fires up in the morning that will be enough to heat the tank feed whatever zone needs it let it heat up and then depending on how many zones need heat there is usually enough to replenish the tank again. That burst of heat in the morning is for the vast amount of winter enough to keep the house toasty warm to the evening. We only really live in the sunroom and kitchen so it doesnt bother me if the living room or spare room is a degree lower.

Use the light on the boom of your digger!! My sister has one of them pir led solar lights. Not a bad light of it. http://www.screwfix.com/p/led-solar-light-with-pir-sensor-solar-led-floodlight-with-pir-granite-grey/98013

You may add a new ball to your site shopping list.

Not just hire a driving one out for a day or two. As you say it will only used for the heavy base and after that your Wacker will do what you need. Much better compaction with the sit on rollers also and more fun!!! Unless you are going to buy a caravan and take up tarmacing drives it's not something that gets used much on any site. http://www.jewson.co.uk/tool-hire/compaction/vibrating-compactors/products/2612/tandem-vibratory-roller/ £235 for a week and probably cheaper locally. Have never seen a trench getting wacked before drainage goes in. You can give it a good squeeze with the digger when you are digging it.

Not sure what you mean by a set of vibrating rolls. do you mean the like of this https://www.hss.com/hire/p/mini-vibrating-roller-petrol the Wacker you will use loads and as Dave says you might even get a few Bob back from hiring it out.

The problem happens more on new sites as the ground is disturbed that much so will take time to settle and sink. If the builder has used bricks under the pipe, complete madness in book, then when the ground sinks you end up with the brick indentations the pipe. This is where all the good stuff that gets flushed will settle and you end up with a blocked pipe. If I was going to dig up the area again I would take the bricks out and just keep an eye on it in the meantime.

Stick them on the wall and then caulk then finish with your paint colour you will have on the wall. Anybody who notices that shouldn't be lying down on your floor.

Check the depth of the pipe wall. Some are thicker than others. I always liked Brett Martin.

I think you are being more than reasonable with them. Just explain it like above that you have no intention of milking then but want a 2nd opinion and if that comes back all hunky dory then you will sign whatever needs signed. Just say that your house insurer is requiring it otherwise you can't get any future protection on that part of the house, as they can be a bit funny with flat roofs.

So it's not just here that plasterers don't like to bend or stretch.

Doesn't matter as much as you think on a masonry build as if it's brick then the windows or doors go where it suits the bond of the brick no matter what it says on the usually ripped, dirty and wet plan. Same goes with block but not just as bad as you can obviously cut a block to suit whatever size you need to get to.