BotusBuild

Thanks Simon - the brightness does reduce when I switch it to pulse mode I have emailed their support and they have been responsive, but those responses have so far not given me confidence. I await next weeks follow up from them. Silver lining of the lockdown - I have some time to sort this out before needing to use the darn thing ?

Definitely clean - no fingerprints. Not been near a building site yet so very little chance of getting dirty!!

I got one of the Huepar 603CG laser and the LR-6RG receiver. Whatever I did, the receiver would not detect, so it went back and I got the LR-5RG receiver which arrived today and that doesn't seem to work either. Before anyone asks, yes, I did put the laser onto Pulse Mode as per the instructions. Reading reviews on eBay and Amazon, I am now seeing a lot of 1* reviews mentioning the exact same problem. Anyone else got the above models? Had any problems? I am hoping that it is not the laser unit itself that is a fault.

That looks great - well done

@ProDave - the branches of one tree were close to the overhead electrical cable in the picture, so I wanted to remove them in small pieces using a handheld saw. The ladder was tied to the tree and pegged to the ground to minimise the risks. Felling the other tree as a whole had the potential to take out two others at the same time. If I'd had the opportunity, it would have come down as you suggest. @Dave Jones - As you can in the pictures, a good 18" of trunk was left and my ground worker dug them out and has taken them away

Having eventually found our plot in episode one, and worked out where the plans had the house to be built we found that a walnut tree had to make way. A second tree, a horse chestnut was also badly diseases with a split trunk and as we didn't want that falling on the newly built house in the Autumn of 2019 (or Fall for our American cousins as I am writing this on Thanksgiving Day 2020) I headed off with equipment in hand to so some tree felling. First some photos of entrance to site (now wider!) and then some of the felling and of course the obligatory fire, and a beautiful sunset as my reward at the end of the first day

So, I have told this story to quite a few family members, friends and colleagues over the last few years, and thought I will record it here so that other new members might learn about the patience and surprises that can occur in this phase of the self build adventure ⛺ It all started when I was 14. I blame my stepfather. He made me dig ♠️ foundations by hand ?️ OK, it was only for an extension, but they didn't tell me about the concrete encased foul and storm water drains we would find. Digging to depths of 10ft by hand should have left severe scars to put me off this self build lark for life. But, hey, I got a new stereo ? for all of my hard graft [For you youngsters, a stereo was the way we played music ? back in the day]. Anyway, many years later, the wife and I are in the Lake District and see a barn ripe for conversion, and the timing must have been right - you know, the stars in alignment ⭐ ⭐, and the phase of the moon? augered well, or some other psychological/astronomical claptrap - and we both said "time to get out of the South East". Well, that was about 5 years ago, and we are still in the South East. Lesson 1 for all new south builders - Tip 1: patience my friends!! Tip 2 - unless you are lucky enough to have been handed a plot of land on which to build, start searching where the wife would like to start, followed closely by Tip 3: using subtle hints and prods in order to expand or direct the search appropriately, always with the mantra (Tip 4) "we need some money left over to build the damn thing!" (Note: some forum members may say that doing that doesn't make for enough of an adventure ? ), we started in the North Devon area, a place where my wife had spent time holidaying as a child with her family, which is as good a reason as any to choose a starting point. We (I) trawled the usual sites for plots (estate agents, land agents, auction sites etc.), we trawled the lanes and byways of North Devon on a number of visits, propping up the local hospitality businesses along the way, I got so bored at one point I went trawling (OK, sea fishing from a trawler ?️ but go with it, for the sake of the story!). Having searched for about 18 months and found nothing, I expanded the search outside N Devon and we started seeing results in East Devon and on the outskirts of Exmoor and Dartmoor. 6 months later and we were looking at plots in the South Hams (S Devon). We saw scrub covered plots, plots with dense woodland ? ? , people looking for a swift profit by selling their back gardens (soon avoided forever after seeing two such postage stamps ? ), old industrial sites, then we went to see two modern(ish) barn conversions and decided to make an offer (below asking price ? of course!). Herein lies a conundrum I have never quite got my head around - asking price £200,000, Offer £165,000, offer refused. OK Offer £175,000. Offer refused. I'll leave the offer there if you change you mind. 2 months later same property on the market for £170,000!!! Offer £150,000, then £160,000, both refused. 2 months later same property on market for £150,000 and marked as SOLD!! The only reason I can fathom is that they wanted someone particular to buy it. After I had calmed down, 6 months later (yes I had been really annoyed) we renewed our search and found an abandoned ex-SW Water above ground reservoir with FPP and amazing views. Problem, it was above our plot buying budget (refer to Tip 4) and the seller refused to move an inch on the price. So, the searches started again. This time, the wife was now quite pliable about the distance from where we currently live and the areas we should look. This is were I have to admit that I had seen a plot with FPP and plans I liked the look of probably about 9 months before the fluidly priced barn fiasco. And, the distance was about 1 mile less than to the old reservoir. So, off I trotted ?‍♂️ one day.....to CORNWALL. Another visit with the wife, a coffee ☕ with the sellers (neighbours to be) to discuss the plans that had been approved and a re-mortgage later, and we became the proud owners of about 1/2 acre of Cornwall just on the edge of an AONB. Just a word of warning - this "plot" did not have its own title deed, and it has taken nearly 18 months for the Land Registry to finalise the new title for us. This in itself has probably given me more grey hair so far than any other aspect of the build so far.

Thank you all - you have confirmed I am not going mad. In this case, I will have to go 'by the bag" due to current space limitations (also only need equivalent of 5 bags)

Please tell me I'm not going mad. My groundworker wants me to order 6mm rounded pea shingle/gravel to bed the 110mm foul drainage pipes!! I've alway felt that 10mm gravel like one of these options is what you use:- https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/bulk-bags-sand-and-aggregates/travis-perkins-gravel-and-shingle-bulk-bag-10mm/p/938182 or https://www.diy.com/departments/10mm-gravel-bulk-bag/35699_BQ.prd which I am inclined to order and tell the groundworker to use. Yes or No?

Really interested to see no mention of waterproofing on the outside of the EPS wall. Are people not doing this? Is this not being specified by your architects or required by building control? FYI - my building regs drawings (just approved) show backfill over RIW protective membrane over RIW double drain (or similar) over self adhesive waterproof membrane, with a land drain below the concrete slab

I spent a couple of years in the micro-renewable energy business (think solar PV, solar thermal, heat pumps, UFH for domestic and small commercial premises). I agree with what @PeterW has said above. It was super important to get the heat loss calculations correct first, then move on to what would provide the heat input to the system, and what heat emitters you required (low temperature radiators or UFH, or (avoid whenever possible) oversized traditional radiators). I have lost access to the heat loss calculator I used to use (it would likely be out of date now), so it would be great if some recommendations could be made for good current versions ?

I'm just trying to get hold of some drainage items (comes to about £700 total before delivery costs), and I'm asking for a small discount, but there seems to be no willingness to budge. Have you been successful with any haggling (not just drainage)? If so, what tips can you share with the forum?

Welcome. Tip 1. Create something outside the door to the static van where the muddy stuff (wellies etc) will stay ? Tip 2. Be ready for decisions Tip 3. Be ready for changes to your plans (they are just that, plans, and plans change) Tip 4. Get your deep breathing and counting to 10 perfected. Patience is a real virtue ? Other tips will appear as you continue to engage with the other forum members. Good luck with the build

Getting ready to do insulated slab for our "upside down" house. The plan is to put the UFH pipes in the slab so the top of the slab is effectively the FFL for the ground floor. The two bathrooms will be on the ground floor. If we want to have same level throughout the ground floor, how do address the problem of the trap and waste pipe for the shower having to be in the poured slab? Anyone done this and got some picture to share?

@Oxbow16 - the slotted 3m stuff

I think my research has confused me. What type of pipes can I use in a STP leach field? Stiff or flexible pipe (see examples below), or will either do? Slotted 3m single socket stuff like this? - https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/underground-drainage/Underground-Drainage-110mm?product_id=1795 or Perforated Twinwall Drainage like this? https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/perforated-land-drain-coil-pipe-100mm-x-100m.html

Soapstar, that is a very common setup - some have two meter boxes, one as above plus the meter in it and the other with the CU and feeds off to other locations.

I am "the workers" ? and for me "the chestnut tree" is adequate When I need major works (pouring cement) I will "hire-a-loo" for the short time the hired help are on site.

I did ? ... and Cornwall Council told me categorically that a time limit condition cannot be discharged, so I'm satisfying myself with the fact that I have evidence (dated photographs) approved (by Stroma) that I can put under people noses should they poke them in ?

I've read quote a few of the threads on STP and aerators. Does anyone know of a solar powered alternative that I can purchase to run the aerator temporarily? Our next task on site it to fit an STP but we will not have power run to drive the aerator pump to begin with. We have a caravan onsite and want to empty the "porta potty" into the STP to save trips in the car to get rid of the contents (and the possible leakages that may occur on the way ? ). I know this will mean using particular additives to stop bacterial homicide in the STP.

... and the planning for us was granted before this date, so it doesn't apply @DevilDamo @Omnibuswoman - see previous commentary: I spoke to my architectural engineer who lives and works in Cornwall and so is very familiar with the processes down there. He had just had the same situation with another client who had used a planning adviser, and it turns out the key is that building control (not planning) has a record that work has begun. As I am using Stroma for building control, this replaces Cornwall building control department, and so I have no need to tell the council I have started. I have the confirmation from Stroma that I have started before the end of the 3 year condition on the planning permission, and so can provide proof the condition was met if anyone asks. The attached photo of some drainage pipe in a trench approx 600mm deep with an inspection chamber attached was sufficient for Stroma. There were some other photos showing pea shingle around the pipe and chamber as well.

Belated follow up and to clarify a few things - we have Full Planning Permission granted 31 Oct 2017. Therefore, @Temp CIL does not apply. I thought that I had to tell the planning department at the council that I had started. Turns out I don't need to. I contacted Cornwall Council - the lack of knowledge of what I needed to do (or not do in this case) was astounding. I got three different pieces of advice as to what I needed to do. The last message I got started "If you'd like ..." !!!! I spoke to my architectural engineer who lives and works in Cornwall and so is very familiar with the processes down there. He had just had the same situation with another client who had used a planning adviser, and it turns out the key is that building control (not planning) has a record that work has begun. As I am using Stroma for building control, this replaces Cornwall building control department, and so I have no need to tell the council I have started. I have the confirmation from Stroma that I have started before the end of the 3 year condition on the planning permission, and so can provide proof the condition was met if anyone asks. @DevilDamo, the extra 6 months was in the back of mind, but I felt it was better to get in before the original 3 year limit. @Ferdinand, glad you celebrated my start in a good way.

Does anyone know if we have to discharge the "begin the development within 3 years" condition with the planning department as soon as work has started, or are we OK to have in place from Stroma (who are doing our building control work) a letter saying they are satisfied that work has started, which we have? FYI - our 3 years ends in October this year From what I am reading on the Cornwall website, it seems this can all take place after we have completed building (which could be 2-3 years after October this year).

The ground is slate and soil mix called shillet (sp?) which does seem to drain well. We are onsite this week suffering the rainstorms, the surface seems to remain firm, and two pits about 1m deep are always "dry" (no pooling of water) after each heavy downpour. The plot is near the top of a hill. Overall I don't think I'm going to have a problem. So, do I need the percolation test (in particular to support a building warranty if i get one)?

(Thinking the answers to these 2 questions maybe linked ? ) 1. Percolation test: is one necessary and can you provide a DIY result? FYI - We plan to get a warranty at the end of the build, "just in case". 2. How do you calculate how much soak away pipe in your herring bone field is required? Is there a useful website? Thanks