BotusBuild

Spent a few days on site last week to do some site prep while waiting for the next version of plans to be completed (yawn - another story!). We do know however that there is one diseased tree (a horse chestnut) and another tree that sits where the front door/porch will ultimately exist that needed to come out. The other tree (supposedly a walnut) had a branch that had started to encroach on the power line to next door. Being an intrepid climber, and armed with a long lopper and a hand rasp saw, and a couple of long lengths of rope I was able to give them both a short back and sides, although the chestnut remains with a small mohican to be dealt with. In a couple of weekends time I shall be back on site with a chainsaw (and the rope) to finish things off. We do have plans to replant once the major construction phase has been completed.

The one thing I am looking forward to once our build is done. I remember lying on my back in the middle of the desert and staring at the wonder that is the galaxy we are part of

If the camera has a DC In feature, can it be used in combination with re-chargeable batteries so you don't lose power?

Can't see a drawing of the proposed extension ?

True, that pic is from June 2018, but last time I passed by, it was still there, and it had been repainted ?

@pocster Got any details? - might invest in one of these before I start digging big holes

Ricco, I am assuming that the flow temperatures in the UFH are somewhere in the 35-45C range, and that the heat source is able to provide input to the system 24/7. If you have individual room thermostats then set each one according to the temp you want, but keep in mind that if set to different temps at different times of the day, that UFH can take longer to increase the apparent temp of the room than a traditional radiator system, if the difference is more than two/three degrees. For example, if you were to go away on a 2 week holiday leaving the temp at say 12-16C, then you would want to increase the temp to your preference 18/21/24C a day before you return to give it time to recover. My personal preference is to only have your normal day-to-day setup with small temperature differences at different times of the day. HTH

It is indeed -

Could get some interesting house names by using What 3 Words. This maps the entire world using 40,000 words - a combination of 3 of the 40,000 represents a 3x3m square. Some emergency services (to pick up on an earlier point made) are already using this when locating emergencies I figure this is actually going to be useful for delivery drivers to our plot when we start work as the post code covers such a huge area.

Is that supply and fit? Or just supply? Need to compare apples with apples ? What components are being quoted for? Manifolds? Pipe?

Adding a buffer tank will help you as it sounds like there is a small volume of liquid in the UFH pipework (assuming here that the pipe runs are probably between 75-150m for what you describe). Depending on the space available, a 100 litre buffer tank should be OK. Make sure that the boiler then has a thermostatic feedback from the buffer to tell it when to switch off ?

Not sure the title of the article is quite right, but that's another matter. I do like the idea though https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/technology-49414835/how-gothic-cathedrals-can-inspire-modern-architecture

Will be doing something similar so interested in the responses. Personally, I would be seeking to have the stone face and window fitting meet up. Probably need a flexible seal between the two, so just need to make the stone edge as straight as possible I guess. It's what you use for that flexible seal that I guess is the key.

... and handy shelving as well ?

Dave, Noise level sensitivity is a very personal thing and positioning becomes a critical factor as in your case. I am just sharing some facts on which other reader can base their views - I spent a few years designing and having heat pumps (air and ground source) installed in various domestic situations, and the first set of questions I asked any new owner was about how they viewed fridge/freezer/washing machine/dishwasher noise. If the design/planning/build timing was appropriate, I would recommend a sound insulated plant room for the more sensitive customers.

A ground source heat pump is no more noisy than a traditional gas boiler. In fact they are relatively quieter. 40-50dB at 1-2m distance from the unit is not uncommon, so just above a quiet library or just below a dishwasher. Personally, I would happily have one in a utility room if it is indeed separated from the rest of the house by a wall/door. Another common location is plantroom in side the house (same thing/different name) or in an attached garage.

I have already done that. The question is posted here so I get as much input as possible ?

We are now in the position of having an Architectural Engineer who my wife thinks I'll get on with ? and so we have asked them to provide their services. They are different from the Architects who worked with our land vendor to get the FPP that exists. We are seeking to get hold of the editable drawings from the original Architects for which they want a large sum of money. So, I want to make sure that we get every last thing from them that will help the Architectural Engineer to make the changes to the plans that we would like to get through the planners. What information - drawings, surveys etc. should I be asking for the original Architect to supply in exchange for the large sum of money? The AE is going to provide a list as well, before anyone asks. Thanks Stuart

Still waiting for architects to respond - anyone would think there was a house building boom taking place. ?

If it is a new and self build, you can apply for an exemption. The timing of all this is critical - read all the guidance on the appropriate council website (Mid Devon). Now, because you have a Class Q, but now want to demolish (?) and build something in its place, it may not count as "new". Again, check the website, the guidance and it may even help to call them and speak with someone.

When you remove the stop plate, replace it with a washer (or something similar) that is of equal thickness to the stop plate. It'll stop the handle "slopping about" (technical term ? ) BTW: Can you actually continue to use that handle as it appears to have an end date in the past? ?

Statutory mains pressure should be around 1 Bar (enough to raise water to a height of 10m). "As a guide, if you have a suitable single service pipe, the first tap in the home (this is usually the kitchen tap) should be able to fill a 4.5 litre (one gallon) bucket in 30 seconds, with all other taps and appliances turned off." - from Watersage.org.uk Mains pressure in a closed system will reveal leaks. For higher pressure, yes, either a compressor or I have seen an adapter created by a plumber that allowed an air pressure test with a car foot pump. Note: another recommendation is to fill the pipes with water before you pour the concrete to stop them being compressed by the concrete.

Q: Why do you think you that conduit? Is space tight? You think it will look neater? My experience is that the actual UFH pipe is reasonably flexible and if where it comes out of the floor and is connected to the manifold (direct connections are highly recommended) it is hidden away or boxed in then the "look" is not so important. Q: To protect the UFH pipe? I would recommend having different loops of UFH in different section of solid floor I strongly recommend pressure testing the pipes before you pour. If there is a problem once the concrete is set off, then you are in a whole load of misery to find and fix the leak. Connect the loops to the manifold, open all the valves, fill with water and leave for an hour or two. Fix any leaks, try again. Rinse and repeat (pun intended) Yes. Just be careful See answer regarding expansion joints.

Fitted a new kitchen just over 11 years ago. Borrowed a router and worktop jig - tested on some offcut to learn the process, then cut what I have been told are two very fine joints. So yes, you can DIY. Just be confident in your abilities, but do practice before. Oh, and use the correct tools.

How much time have you got on your hands? How much is your time worth? In other words, can you earn more doing your job than it will cost to get someone else to do it for you? If you are a control freak, or have OCD, then doing it yourself may outweigh the earn vs. cost equation of course ? Personally, I love a good new power tool and would just not consider the equation at all ?