BotusBuild

I wonder whether you're allowed to use that method in the UK? Can you combine two of the three defined types (A, B and C in NHBC design document) on the same side of the wall? I'm guessing so as I can't see anything in the NHBC guide to say you can't

Russell, If you put the inverter and a CU in the garage, then you can run just the one cable back to the CU in the house. Stuff you want power to in the garage can run off the CU in the garage

@Conor - re: the ground temp thing, this is exactly my understanding as well. thanks for clarifying that my thinking was not the self-build madness virus taking hold ? Yes, shall be avoiding waterproof concrete. Seems that unless the concrete manufacturer pours and guarantees the stuff themselves, and it's not left encapsulated in something (like it is in ICF), any warranties are relatively pointless.

OK I think that's got the vermin/oil issue addressed ? Thanks for all the feedback. What about the use of insulated raft in basement situations? Anyone care to comment?

My build method choice is ICF walls on an insulated raft foundation (ground conditions permitting). Talking with a supplier of a well known ICF product I have been warned that insulated rafts are susceptible to damage from vermin and oil. This particular supplier is the only one who has mentioned this. This curve-ball has managed to (i) make me question the competence of this supplier as I have never come across this problem in the two year period I have been researching (ii) make me question whether this particular ICF system, by association, is any good (iii) query whether I should just go with strip foundations? Anyone else heard of the "vermin/oil" problem? Anyone seen evidence of this? The other comment from the same supplier was "for a basement there is no point in using insulated foundation because the ground below 1m is a constant temperature". I know that last part of that is factually correct, but I see others on BH using insulated raft for basements, so what are others opinions?

I'm a long way from this stage at the moment. I will need to make a decision as I get estimates for my ICF supply - whether to fit stone cladding slips direct to the outside of the ICF, or to build a stone wall with a cavity behind.

Another 2 questions 1. Where the MDPE pipe exits the insulated ducting, is there available some kind of "rubber seal" that minimizes excess water in the ground entering the ducting? 2. Is the ducting really only required as the pipe exits the ground? Buried at 750mm minimum should surely mean insulating from frost (in SW England) would be economically and ecologically unnecessary.

Coming down today with 2 pieces Heras fencing on the car. Meeting local groundworker at site and time permitting will make trip over to Tehidy

@PeterW - thanks for confirming the simple solution ?

Just got the chamber (in four pieces). Do you glue the insert in the picture into the top of the tube, or use a few long screws?

Kernow, As SteamyTea mentioned, ICF is a method I am considering seriously, although with plenty of thinking time over Christmas/New Year, I have been thinking of using this for the below ground part only. I have visited a number of the self build exhibitions and spoken to reps from Durisol, Velox, Nudura and BecoWallform (If you can get to the NSBRC at Swindon (just off J16, M4) you can see a range of ICF products on display. Key for me is ability to insert rebar for the below ground retaining wall parts of the build, ability to do most of the formwork myself, and I'm trying to build with as little transport impact as possible (i.e. source as locally as I can). Of course, your criteria will be different and that is the key - write a list of what yours are and keep referring to it. May go visit Tehidy myself as I plan a short trip down to site next weekend.

In this diagram from SWW's Site Manager Guide , what does "DT" just above the Double check valve stand for? What size duct should I be looking for? 63mm external? I'll be using 25mm MDPE pipe. What insulation should be used, and how easy is it to install? Would it be sufficient to put up a wood frame with the standpipe and tap attached to it? Or do I need to create a box with the standpipe inside?

I like the general idea. I wonder how long it will take for the many participating members of the alliance to reach agreement? Who will create something based on a draft, which then spawns a branch "standard" and it all ends in acrimony (did I mention I've seen this before? No? Oh, sorry about that ? ) And with a Chinese entity (Wulian) in the pack , I wonder how long it will be before some Western state nation screams foul?

I know, I know, just can't find a Round Tuit ?

The same happened to us when the cowboys came round and put in 300mm of rockwool insulation in our loft, effectively blocking the draft up the gap into the loft. As the rockwool has settled it has got a little better, but we still suffer a little.

I was in a slightly different situation in that I had no mortgage on the current house. We have ended up remortgaging current house to purchase out plot and have about £50K to get started on the build. Our new mortgage is with Metro Bank. Buildstore Mortgage Services brokered the deal

Mid/Late 70's - Some Genesis, Beatles, Dire Straits, and making mix tapes on a Sunday evening from the Top40 countdown

I was reminded recently when going through old family photos, of the time when I was 14 or 15 digging by hand the foundations for an extension. Had to go over 9ft deep to go underneath storm and foul drains, wrap them in EPS, install more rebar than I care to remember, and then mix and pour all by hand. The BCO said afterwards that we could have built a 5 story block of flats on what we (I) had done. And all I got was a new stereo !!

1mm should do - BUT - what do the instructions say? Dare I say RTFM ?

Only if the stove is in an alcove. If its out in the open, let convection do its thing

I like simple solutions ? How about leaving out one side piece of the insulation to let any water flow away naturally? Then put it back in place in when you are ready to perform the concrete pour.

My architect is submitting the garage as a separate application for similar reasons as yours has suggested

Riddler, @Jeremy Harris's comments notwithstanding (which I agree with), your proposed approach to installing the ground pipework first and then connecting when you are ready is a very common approach. Some comments:- Try to avoid putting them under anything that will end up as a solid surface like "the new concrete pad for the stable", just in case there is a problem in the future and you need to access it (unlikely, but it falls in the "you never know what might happen" category and you state you have plenty of other ground to work with anyway) Regarding the tank in the Bosch unit, I am assuming that is the hot water integrated tank? For your underfloor heating, you may need to consider a buffer tank as well. I recommend that you do not go by the rule of thumb for the coils in the ground - get someone with experience and the right design tools to determine what it is you will need. Fo this they will need a good set of plans and details of build to determine heat losses of the dwelling. Welcome to the site and good luck with your build

Thanks Peter

I have a quote from South West Water for a new connection that includes VAT for 3 items under the heading "Non-Construction" - an Application Fee, and Administration Fee and Contribution toward general cost of Water Regs Inspections. Can I ask them to zero-rate these items (total VAT amount is £29.80)? FYI - the other £1,356 of the quote total is zero rated.