BotusBuild

I'm a long way from this stage at the moment. I will need to make a decision as I get estimates for my ICF supply - whether to fit stone cladding slips direct to the outside of the ICF, or to build a stone wall with a cavity behind.

Another 2 questions 1. Where the MDPE pipe exits the insulated ducting, is there available some kind of "rubber seal" that minimizes excess water in the ground entering the ducting? 2. Is the ducting really only required as the pipe exits the ground? Buried at 750mm minimum should surely mean insulating from frost (in SW England) would be economically and ecologically unnecessary.

Coming down today with 2 pieces Heras fencing on the car. Meeting local groundworker at site and time permitting will make trip over to Tehidy

@PeterW - thanks for confirming the simple solution ?

Just got the chamber (in four pieces). Do you glue the insert in the picture into the top of the tube, or use a few long screws?

Kernow, As SteamyTea mentioned, ICF is a method I am considering seriously, although with plenty of thinking time over Christmas/New Year, I have been thinking of using this for the below ground part only. I have visited a number of the self build exhibitions and spoken to reps from Durisol, Velox, Nudura and BecoWallform (If you can get to the NSBRC at Swindon (just off J16, M4) you can see a range of ICF products on display. Key for me is ability to insert rebar for the below ground retaining wall parts of the build, ability to do most of the formwork myself, and I'm trying to build with as little transport impact as possible (i.e. source as locally as I can). Of course, your criteria will be different and that is the key - write a list of what yours are and keep referring to it. May go visit Tehidy myself as I plan a short trip down to site next weekend.

In this diagram from SWW's Site Manager Guide , what does "DT" just above the Double check valve stand for? What size duct should I be looking for? 63mm external? I'll be using 25mm MDPE pipe. What insulation should be used, and how easy is it to install? Would it be sufficient to put up a wood frame with the standpipe and tap attached to it? Or do I need to create a box with the standpipe inside?

I like the general idea. I wonder how long it will take for the many participating members of the alliance to reach agreement? Who will create something based on a draft, which then spawns a branch "standard" and it all ends in acrimony (did I mention I've seen this before? No? Oh, sorry about that ? ) And with a Chinese entity (Wulian) in the pack , I wonder how long it will be before some Western state nation screams foul?

I know, I know, just can't find a Round Tuit ?

The same happened to us when the cowboys came round and put in 300mm of rockwool insulation in our loft, effectively blocking the draft up the gap into the loft. As the rockwool has settled it has got a little better, but we still suffer a little.

I was in a slightly different situation in that I had no mortgage on the current house. We have ended up remortgaging current house to purchase out plot and have about £50K to get started on the build. Our new mortgage is with Metro Bank. Buildstore Mortgage Services brokered the deal

Mid/Late 70's - Some Genesis, Beatles, Dire Straits, and making mix tapes on a Sunday evening from the Top40 countdown

I was reminded recently when going through old family photos, of the time when I was 14 or 15 digging by hand the foundations for an extension. Had to go over 9ft deep to go underneath storm and foul drains, wrap them in EPS, install more rebar than I care to remember, and then mix and pour all by hand. The BCO said afterwards that we could have built a 5 story block of flats on what we (I) had done. And all I got was a new stereo !!

1mm should do - BUT - what do the instructions say? Dare I say RTFM ?

Only if the stove is in an alcove. If its out in the open, let convection do its thing

I like simple solutions ? How about leaving out one side piece of the insulation to let any water flow away naturally? Then put it back in place in when you are ready to perform the concrete pour.

My architect is submitting the garage as a separate application for similar reasons as yours has suggested

Riddler, @Jeremy Harris's comments notwithstanding (which I agree with), your proposed approach to installing the ground pipework first and then connecting when you are ready is a very common approach. Some comments:- Try to avoid putting them under anything that will end up as a solid surface like "the new concrete pad for the stable", just in case there is a problem in the future and you need to access it (unlikely, but it falls in the "you never know what might happen" category and you state you have plenty of other ground to work with anyway) Regarding the tank in the Bosch unit, I am assuming that is the hot water integrated tank? For your underfloor heating, you may need to consider a buffer tank as well. I recommend that you do not go by the rule of thumb for the coils in the ground - get someone with experience and the right design tools to determine what it is you will need. Fo this they will need a good set of plans and details of build to determine heat losses of the dwelling. Welcome to the site and good luck with your build

Thanks Peter

I have a quote from South West Water for a new connection that includes VAT for 3 items under the heading "Non-Construction" - an Application Fee, and Administration Fee and Contribution toward general cost of Water Regs Inspections. Can I ask them to zero-rate these items (total VAT amount is £29.80)? FYI - the other £1,356 of the quote total is zero rated.

Thanks - that confirms my worst fears - childhood trauma's of touring caravan holidays and being the eldest sibling (therefore apparently in charge of doing the emptying). And why was every holiday timed to coincide with the wettest weather the location had seen in the last 4 millenia?

What has anyone done when no mains sewer is available and the planned sewage plant/tank has not been installed? We are at the very beginning of our build.

Any Yorkshiremen want to extend a welcome ?

My approach FWIW - Try once on fleabay, gumtree or your favoured selling site. If they don't go, then fling them.

Yasir - your budget will not come from the lenders - it will come from knowing what you are going to build, which itself comes from your design. This can be a circular process until you settle on a design that you is acceptable both from a "needs" perspective and a "I can afford that" perspective. This is a balancing act. I like to keep in mind the builders triad (at least that's what I call it) of Quality - Cost - Time. For quality don't think just Good vs Bad, but think Need vs "Would really like". Also within that triad, think which two are moderately inflexible and which one can flex most. For me the big flex is Time with cost and quality being only partially so - you can't afford to be completely rigid on any of them IMHO.