BotusBuild

OK, so I don't have to get over concerned about the meter being in place before the DNO complete their work. Thanks

ProDave, Did the meter have to be in place before the connection actually took place?

Hi, I have got a date for our electric connection from Western Power Distribution (WPD) to be completed, and need to arrange for an electric meter from an electricity supplier. Hoorah. This is to a build site with no registered address either with the council or the post office. First question is, does this need to be installed before the electric supply? Looking at pictures of meter boxes in other threads it would seem it is. Next question, based on the couple of phone calls I've made, I need an MPAN number which can't exist without a registered address (or so I am being told), so I appear to be in a catch 22 situation. Should Western Power be able to provide me with an MPAN number? Last questions - How quick should the electricity supplier (not WPD) be able to install the meter? Who's best? Cheers Stuart

A post heater fits inline after the MVHR unit in the "air into the house" ducting (supply ducting). So "post" as in "after" as opposed to "pre" as in "before". The post heater adds a little extra heat if required to the incoming air. So the air flow would be from the outside:- OUTSIDE AIR -> DUCT -> MVHR -> POST HEATER -> DUCTING INTO HOUSE

They obviously have so much business they don't want yours, or the flooring you are asking for is rarer than hen's teeth. Make a counter offer of £2,000 below what you are willing to pay i.e. start bartering. If they don't/won't play ball, move on.

Anyone know if Self Build Zone and Buildstore are one and the same organisation - just filled out the online quotation and they were EXACTLY the same questions/website layout as each other ?

Not wanting that either Russell ?

Haven't asked them. It came up in a discussion with the SE this morning. The question is more of a poll to see what other buildhubbers would choose given the choice.

Hi, Hopefully a simple poll .... I need to choose whether to use stone slips on the outside of an ICF build (likely Nudura) or have a cavity and then a full stone wall. I will be doing this work myself. So which to choose - stone slips or full stone?

Please video it ?

My garage design requirement has a four post lift included - I own a classic and do a lot of the work myself (much to the annoyance, but praise and admiration, of the local specialist garage) so it will be used for working on the car and also storing it raised with drip trays installed and the daily drive will be parked underneath.

Break out the rope and tackle or a chain hoist. Boards underneath. Drag it up. Done!

That's some journey. I wish you speedier travels on the remainder of your build ?

Got any lumps of discarded concrete onsite that need breaking up? ?

In? Out? Shake it all about! Do the hokey cokey, and turn it round? That's what this building lark is all about In for me - somewhere to put the shampoo ?

My water connection scheduled for today was postponed as SWW/Kier (who do their work) are now on "emergency works only". I also got my Travelodge booking cancelled as well so it would have meant a day trip (200+ miles each way) for me to do the "customer side" pipework which was doable. Although I would have been isolated from everyone on the journeys and in doing the work on the site, this was not a necessary journey. July is the new scheduled date

It's cheap enough at the moment (£1.02 at my local Asda)

That's what I was doing ? Regarding all those other products I shall investigate and make a bold choice ?

I will try Jet Blue Plus next time ? Just used PTFE tape round the olives and on the threads. It's mainly sealed, just some minor weeping (a drip every 3-4 minutes that I know will calcify over the next few weeks), which now everything is heated up dries out quick enough in the airing cupboard. I'm not draining that system again to try to get rid of something I know from experience will "self seal" in good time.

Woohoo - Got the parts, new DHW cylinder fitted yesterday, some small seeping leaks but I know these will seal with calcification by the hard water. "Something for the weekend" !!! Who was I kidding?

Guys, Thank you, I have managed to fix the old one by cannibalising a new drain tap. But the saga continues. It turns out there was also a leak on the hot water cylinder in the area where this was connected. New cylinder picked up yesterday but different to spec on the website as it has an extra female 1.25" hole. Of course, now I have to wait for the hardware stores to re-open after the PM's announcement last night ? [In the meantime, the family booked a local TravelLodge for the night to get a shower!! Don't think that can happen again, so the pressure is back on] ?? Still smiling

Thanks, just popping into B&Q to see if I can find a BS2879 compliant drain tap to cannibalize (they are controlling numbers in the store)

Yes, looking again it could start BS...

Might be 2873

@Onoff, think it ends 2879