BotusBuild

Still trying to figure out what "cat iron" is to be honest 🙂 But, IMHO, take the guttering down, clean it all up removing loose paint and rust with a good steel brush (maybe use something in a drill?). Paint. Yes to a primer, then you top coat. If you can afford it Farrow & Ball do downpipe paint (but I guess its for the guttering as well). Other alternatives - Rustoleum, FLAG, Bedec and Centrecoat

Yeah, maybe "watering it" was the wrong terminology

I was prepping a strip foundation for a retaining wall yesterday. Lost count of the number of litres of water I drank. Finished it early this morning before it got more scorchio. No concrete until next week. Its just too effing hot and I can't be arsed watering it while it dries

Mine is/will be about 10% (or second hand Aston Martin sized) 🤣

As you know I got the GROHE frame and pan installed, but it seems the flush does not want to work. You have to keep the buttons pressed in for the water to flow. Basically the release valve (correct term?) was not engaging. First picture shows the top of the release valve on the left, and a part of the refill/float mechanism to the right. The second picture shows where the top of the release valve should get to when a flush button is pressed. But, it is catching as per the next photo I've tried "twisting" these two apart but hard plastic don't give. Question - cut the top of the release valve (enough to allow it to rise properly), or cut the alternative installation slot and that "flange"? Othe photos

Pause, sit back, breathe deeply. Now your relaxed, read the advice, research solutions e.g. the resting bend collar issue, and work out your plan of action. Write it all down, and cross it off as you go. This is satisfying as you can see progress. Regarding the brickie. From the picture it looks like what he's done is good work. Unless you have had a major falling out with angry words exchanged, it may be worth eating a little humble pie and asking them to return when needed.

Yes. You can put some polystyrene round to protect it a bit if you want. I remember digging a foundation by hand years ago, and coming across the storm water drain, then the foul drain below it. Both were encased in concrete. I had surround these with polystyrene, then reinforcing rods before the foundations for an extension were built. I was a teenager at the time, and my reward was a new stereo 😀 You'd think I would have learnt my lesson before building a whole house nearly 50 years later

I have to concrete part of my rainwater drainage as well. Been told it doesn't have to be a strong mix. Must be capable of holding the pipe in place and stopping surrounding ground movement (or wall movement ib your case I guess) I'd remove the pipe bedding you have and prop up with offcuts of blocks then pour concrete. No need to change the pipework.

Where the (bleep) did that come from? Obviously a brainfart on my part. It was Wren Kitchens 🙂

Thanks, but not clear who the manufacturer is. Can you provide contact details please?

Thank you to those who commented and voted. I have been recently persuaded by SWMBO to use ICF for its strength and DIYability. Now researching garage doors and the roof.

@Russdl, where did you get those steel joists from? Looks like an interesting solution for my soon to be built garage.

@saveasteading, how did you get on with your garage door search? Assume you bought one by now. (Whoever that supplier is who charges extra for Cornwall can go do one!)

Went to turn on the H & C outlets for the ensuite shower this morning, and I and the plant room got an unasked for shower from the hot outlet (had to be the potentially dangerous one didn't it!). The culprit was found to be a missing O ring (look carefully), compared to a known good one. But, planning ahead years ago allowed me to divert the pipe to the known good outlet, making a complete mess of my layout !!! Now wondering if I can get a replacement O ring for my OCD 😀

It was a left over side panel from the kitchen (Wickes)

It is wall hung 🙂 The photo doesn't show the gap between pan and floor 🙂

Wooden stud wall (you state you have carpentery skills). Insulated the gaps (a bit of noise absorption, but importantly limit room to room heat transfer) Double plaster board for noise absorption. Both sides if you want. Relatively quick, cheap, easy with help.

As suspected not all those parts are required for the supplied pan, only the threaded rod. To which we add these parts and these informative instructions (!), which don't match the provided pan and s/c seat! Which, when you work it out end up like this fitted to the pan. Threaded rod with metal bits on: (Muppet forget to take a photo) Pan fitted:

Got the walls repaired, a backer panel fitted and the flusher panel on. Just awaiting the toilet pan tomorrow

Fitted:

Two weeks! What have you been doing man?! 1st, getting the PB and plaster reinstated, and adding a backboard: 2nd, selling a house 😀 Right, next set of Grohe instructions: covers multiple flushers So, I only need a small subsection of the instructions, of which, the twiddling round of the button with the Grohe logo has been carried out Next step is to cut back the plastic white rectangle in the first picture flush to the wall.

If you're putting pea shingle in first, backfilled with the excavated spoil. No need to screen it

Can't see the there being space on the worktop to park the car 😀

Before you fix this, can you address the issue of the water running onto the path at the top, some kind of redirection. Maybe consider some Arco drain to redirect the wall to the far side of the path or a soakaway or drain. I would be looking to power clean the cracked area before applying anything. Whatever you apply will need a stable clean surface. There are various rubber or bitumen based sealants that may work. The ultimate fix is to relay the concrete path and introduce some diagonal grooves in the surface that direct the water away from the building and down the path. Bad text diagram following - connect the diagonal together for continuous grooves. |\ \ \ \ \| |\ \ \ \ \| |\ \ \ \ \| |\ \ \ \ \| |\ \ \ \ \| Or, more simply, have the path relaid with a slope away from building wall