scottishjohn

LOL

you could try a hot air gun while pulling it flat --?

don,t see a problem to being damp mix -operators choice ? I doubt your sand and gravel will be bone dry

watched the videos --looks good system ,but guessing its expensive?

first thing use deep boxs not the thin ones if using metal -- sparkies hate those slim ones just work out depth of box and have top edge of box inside plaster board thickness --then you keep your plaster man happy as well and fix noggins well and square to wall- you know all this

Ok understand now why going for cement savings .because its below DPC anyway you might as well do it as a dry mix then and let ground moisture set it off-even easier to tumble in mixer then barrow in , but me,i would still go for 8-1 as used in bedding for paviors --

your main problem will be balancing the flow across the whole system if you have small bore and std size piping ,but that you can sort out when you are done with the flow valves on the rads the water will take easiest way to flow so you will need to cut flow to std piped rads to make it go round small piped ones I had same problem as builder had used 10mm upstairs and 15mm on ground floor + just left all flow valves fully open ,so a lot of messing about to get even temp on all rads . It had a 15mm to upstairs then split off to 10mm to go to bedrooms and of course sod all insulation on 10mm copper -so part of the heat was going into the building before it got to rads

Is this very stingy use of cement just to save money . just thinking back to a wall I had pointed by a local --who mixed it very weak ,and it always holds the dampness more than the next bit ,that i did my self , after seeing how he charged for a rough job , but i mixed good and strong and the water from rain does not stay on it or in it like the weak mixed section . so my point being if any dampness is about it could track through the weak mix and hold moisture ? where as strong it won,t go through it or hold it . comments please

I asked my sparky about these --he was in for a puncture repair "do not use --can cause condensation in certain circumstances and anyway there are plastic versions if you must,but he would go with dry wall boxs or wooden "dwangs to fix too ",as they call them in scotland

I,m just waiting for a drone to fly over me it will get both barrels with no4 + full choke

a set of plans would be a good starting point for people to look at to give sound advice

I used 3/4"ply on top of chipboard in the cupboard where 300 litre tank was fitted to spread the load better maybe a problem in new build --all beams seem very skinny

you do know integra spec are made in ireland and you can get quote from them direct --might be worth a comparison

so are you saying leave a small gap in corners +ceiling joint and fill with plaster before skim tape

sorry do not understand what you are saying a better description please

at that price you can chuck it away if it gets too blocked ,like you replace roller inserts. If under a tight time constraint i would definately buy 2

Ok guys whats the view on using combination of glue +minimum screws to speed up the job,as they do in other countries not dot+dab on solid wall --but when fixing to stud work

all i would say is the macerators I have used are not very reliable and will need changing every couple of years if you are as lucky with them as I have been . so avoid like the plaque if possible one of them was just for a wash hand basin ,which only really ever got water down it no smelly solids

so if you want these great big folding window walls then you gotta allow for air con in build then . having been in australia most just air con one or two rooms,definately the bedroom and mostly the lounge as well with a wall mounted blower unit --very quiet and simple to fit but normal people don,t go for full house system . they just have what looks like a car port in the yard" as they call it ,with the barbie under it in the " and live outside maybe that,s what you in the SE are going to be doing in the future , what we spend on heating they spend on air con .LOL my daughter is in sydney and after 5years out there she really complains when in their winter it drops to 20c - and always wants thermals brought out . lottery win and i,m out there --average 28-35 c --great

was hardly a normal summer last year

I have to say i think who ever specified the tank got it wrong -total litreage --not a problem but all in one tank --that limits you to when your sloar can work and will shorten the numberr of hours it can wok if it has to be above main tank temp 3 smaller tanks with different target temps and it would work much better

so what would you say your average air temp is form april to oct certainly up here there are not that many days in normal year where the air is 23-24c or more for that period kitchen is not a good example as you make heat in there when cooking . Is this a thing that is prevalent in open plan houses ?

that might work ,but you going to need a control circuit that makes your pV take primary role for DHW --or your boiler will heat it up and you won,t get full use of PV If i was doing this then I would have boiler primarly doing UFH and only when dhw tank is above 60c? would i divert it to UFH - maybe a separate loop in bottom half of tank for that and divertor valve and pump so you taking water at or below40c for ufh ? then maybe a coil for boiler to top up tank if top half way temp drops below a target temp - so 3 coils in tank ? DHW out uUFH out boiler in then your 2 pv heaters lot of control system needed could be complicated to get best out of PV- sure someone will have a solution

as its a conversion of a building maybe you could do something very novel for over heating like open a window !!. you say its on a budget so maybe you not going with mega floor to ceiling windows anyway --they are expensive and thats where you mega solar gain will come from getting house insulated and air tight should be primary concern i think concern on over heating would not be high on my list on a budget build fabric first-- It would help if you stated a rough budget + floor area of building --then people may direct you on best way to spend it

Hmmm. maybe an opening for making grp frames to fit velux windows to corrugated roofs I made something like this when i built my workshop as i wanted to fit a 30"extraction+ input ducts through the roof take a new sheet use it as a mould to make the base corrugated then you can build up a wood frame to fasten the velux too then use layers of grp to cover the wood frame to bond it to the base section and you have a purpose made cassette to fit to your roof profile . i suggest 3 or 4 layers and coated with grp roof gel cost --then its UV proof,you can get dyes to make it colour you want easy to fit to roof and seal you can offset the velux frame to corrugations as you want to make it look right might seem to be a long way for a short cut but will be perfect fit