Rich

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  1. Open source trv system? Do you have a link? ive just had a quick google and i can only find the big brand systems which seem a little limited for how expensive they are. I would appreciate the simplicity of installing the heating in the "standard" way. But ideally would like to zone each room independently. Maybe wired actuators at each rad and a stat in each room all wired back to a central wiring centre? Or would that be a bit old fashioned in the wireless world 😂
  2. I used a roll of 15mm hep as a bit of a trial earlier today and wow! What a difference. Thanks for the advice it really is so much easier to use. now I'm thinking 15mm from the manifold, then a 15mm st with a 10x15mm spigot elbow under the rad, bringing the last 1m up in 10mm for neatness (10mm out of the wall behind the rad to keep pipework out of the way) is this an acceptable solution? All individual feeds/returns fed from a ufh manifold with 15mm Eurocones allowing each room to be zoned.
  3. If I'm honest, purely because it's easy to work with/no joins from the manifold to rad. The last time I tried a coil of 15mm plastic it was a nightmare or am I missing a trick?
  4. I was told This on 2 separate occasions however it was some time ago. Just to clarify it is 10mm plastic I was planning to use not copper, not sure if that makes any difference, hopefully I have been missinformed as it would make life much easier. Im using a underfloor heating manifold to distribute so I'm hoping to use the flow valves on that to balance.
  5. As the title suggests I'm trying to find out the max run of 10mm pipe to supply a radiator from a manifold. As a rule of thumb Im sure I remember being told 7m, however would that be 7m flow + 7m return or 3.5m for each? would appreciate any input from the collective? Thanks.
  6. I've been back over the plan and have come up with the manifold plan as attached (1 single manifold in the cupboard as @Nickfromwales suggested), the UVC/Sunamp will stay in the garage and the decision on which of the 2 can be made later as first fix pipework in the house is the priority at the moment. I've planned the basins sinks and showers as return circuits for comfort (although part of me thinks the showers being return circuits maybe a little overboard they cost so little to add?) as @PeterWthe manifold and 22mm feed leg should be kept warm by activating the HRC for a couple of mins a hour for any outlets omitted from the return circuits (bath + shower 1) in the same cupboard will be a manifold to feed 1st floor and attic radiators (currently trying to find a pushfit 10mm manifold) they all seem to be 15mm, this should allow me to control actuators via loxone to zone the heating. 10mm feed and return from rads? Then the ground floor ufh manifold in the garage (insulated enclosure). anything obvious missing from the above plan? anything any of you would do differently? am I still going way over the top? (so easy to do when its your own build 😂) Thanks in advance. drg 1.pdf drg 2.pdf
  7. will be a gas boiler, size/brand I'm open to suggestions, however most of the gas safe fitters around here have their fave to fit for what ever reasons. There's only 3 of us so no real heavy use but thus may not always be the case. what I mean is since it's directly above the garage it would seem a little daft to run this from the single proposed manifold in the upstairs cupboard? Would this just be run from the cylinder/sunamp position straight up? 😂 I'm trying not to dwell on it to much, however I'm fairly sure its going to end up as the biggest mistake of the build! Oh well at least I won't have to wait for hot water to wash my hands after a jimmy riddle 😂
  8. I could be convinced at that money, however after a small amount of research around 6 months ago it was looking like I would require 2 units due to the size of house, would this not be the case with the "12"? I think I understand where your going with this, run the last circuit on the mainifold to a point of use and then return from the points use back to the uvc. Therefore the hrc will heat the manifold and manifold feed pipework along with the kitchen circuit? Clever and something I wouldn't of come up with! does anyone make a purpose made manifold for this? or would you just make 2 up from the usual 2/3/4port offerings from jg/hep I think from the comments here this seems like the most efficient route, would you also run the shower room above the cylinder back from the manifold for ease of isolation etc? A very neat solution! It's something I could add a version of as I'm putting loxone automation in (another learning curve for me). This could be used for a similar level of control. Sadly not, I did have a quote I was happy with (circa 4.5k for 4kw in roof) however I had a little last minute doubt in the "investment"due to not having a Epc lowering the kickbacks. kicking myself a little now as the roofs on so too late and it would have only cost 3.6k once I had them take the vat off! So would have been a fairly fast payback! 😡 I think I managed to digest most of what you wrote 😂 Thanks for the help.
  9. 300L so I'll stick with 22mm. I considered a sunamp after reading a thread on here regarding them. However I then read the pricelist, I think it was along the lines of 3-4K for the units our house would require. Assuming not much has changed in the last 6 months.
  10. The cupboard on the landing was my first choice, in fact it's the reason it was on the plans to begin with 😂 However SWMBO has long since dreamt up many uses for the space, if I was in a pinch I could over rule her but life would be far easier if I make the garage placement work. Doing away with the recirc altogether Does sound appealing however. Thanks @PeterWI was planning on using pir's to activate the pump but on second thoughts your method would be far more efficient given the way we live. Would a 22mm feed suffice to manifold 2 given the number of showers etc? I have a 32mm main due to living in Wales and requiring domestic fire sprinklers, so I could support a 28mm feed to the manifold if required. The garage is insulated to the the same level as the house with the exception of the door being a week point (45mm insulated sectional planned) so I was hoping it would be ok in there. Although what your saying could add more wieght to what @ProDave has suggested.
  11. Hi all, over the last few days I have been reading up on the best route to go whilst planning my own plumbing. I was originally set on hot water recirculation due to a mixture of the overall size of our build and not being a fan of waiting for the shower to warm up. After reading all the relevant threads on here I like the idea of manifold distribution (easy isolation, pressure loss, and less joints). Which has led me to where I am now, considering a mixture of manifolds fed via a secondary return loop to keep the home runs as short as possible. I have done plenty of plumbing on my rentals however these are obviously far more traditional systems and want something more for our own house. I will be carrying out the work my self so again I like the idea of single lengths of plastic pipe from the manifolds to point of use. I have attached a plan of our build overlaid with manifold, Boiler + UVC positions and would be happy for any thought / critique. My initial first thoughts are to lower the number of manifold from 4 down to 2 (dropping manifolds 3/4), also possibly moving the UVC to the position of manifold 2 which may negate the need for secondary circulation all together? (SWMBO doesn't like the idea of my robbing her cupboard however) 😂 Has anyone gone down this route? or used an alternative after discounting this route? DHW 1.pdf DHW 2.pdf
  12. Thanks nick, very helpful. I can see your point of view, however is this the only benefit the dedicated membranes have over this cheaper option? If so surely this can be mitigated depending on the wall buildup.
  13. Was this on a full build? If so was it successful when the air test was carried out? The pics help a lot thanks 👍🏻
  14. has anyone used a normal VCL such as https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-vapour-barrier-green-300ga-2-5-x-20m/12869?_requestid=575880 and taped the joins to form a airtight membrane? Im trying to sense check this idea as it would seem to me these plastic membranes would be airtight if applied correctly. Would anyone have any advice to the contrary? thanks in advance.