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scottishjohn

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Everything posted by scottishjohn

  1. scottishjohn
    the polar system he linked with video does not do MVHR --only ufh +dhw which is why i suggested eco dan
  2. scottishjohn
    I watched the video you linked looks like a mitsubishi eco dan with pre-plumbed hot water tank+controller --which does just the same as that system an only has 2 units as that does I have one and very happy with it
  3. scottishjohn
    that's a real problem If I saw it and had not read this I would be thinking there was a damp problem and it was cladded with hard board .LOL --but you say its only when it gets hot .and there is venting behind I like the suggestion of a temp probe behind and maybe a moisture one as well ,just to rule it out . you or somebody going to be ripping it all off and starting again ,thats for sure could a TF shrink that much ? and if it did why is it expanding again when not hot ? is there a moisture problem which is drying out in hot weather ? and is it only on side which faces the sun? really weird problem you got there wish you good luck in solving it silly suggestion ,but is your tumble dryer vent leaking into cavity and steaming the back of it ?
  4. scottishjohn
    https://econekt.co.uk/ in glasgow
  5. scottishjohn
    I see no reason why not . different if you were hard plastering or having to fix to bricks used both and if good ones no probs and you don,t have to worry if sparkie has fitted all the grommets in the knock out holes knock outs leave very sharp edge ,and can cut cable insulation if it is pulled hard against it Yes its law to fit grommets ,but seen plenty that have got missed or fallen out and hanging on cable leaving cable touching sharp edge on box and you can even buy a box hole cutting tool to fit on your multicut - makes a nice square hole in plasterboard or brick
  6. scottishjohn
    when in doubt fit a big lump of plywood dwanged to the studs in the approx area behind plaster board where i think things will be --plenty of room for mistakes then , or should I say people changing their mind on exact fittings-- got to hand to the rough arse builder who built my present timber frame in late 70,s --the studs inside+ out were all covered in osb,closed panel sysytem - you can fit anything anywhere -- pity he didn,t take as much care with filling them with insulation down side is its a bit of a bugger to fit drywall boxs in new places on exterior walls , cos its too thick , cos plasterboard is 15/16mm + thickness of osb
  7. scottishjohn
    LOL
  8. scottishjohn
    you could try a hot air gun while pulling it flat --?
  9. scottishjohn
    don,t see a problem to being damp mix -operators choice ? I doubt your sand and gravel will be bone dry
  10. scottishjohn
    watched the videos --looks good system ,but guessing its expensive?
  11. scottishjohn
    first thing use deep boxs not the thin ones if using metal -- sparkies hate those slim ones just work out depth of box and have top edge of box inside plaster board thickness --then you keep your plaster man happy as well and fix noggins well and square to wall- you know all this
  12. scottishjohn
    Ok understand now why going for cement savings .because its below DPC anyway you might as well do it as a dry mix then and let ground moisture set it off-even easier to tumble in mixer then barrow in , but me,i would still go for 8-1 as used in bedding for paviors --
  13. scottishjohn
    your main problem will be balancing the flow across the whole system if you have small bore and std size piping ,but that you can sort out when you are done with the flow valves on the rads the water will take easiest way to flow so you will need to cut flow to std piped rads to make it go round small piped ones I had same problem as builder had used 10mm upstairs and 15mm on ground floor + just left all flow valves fully open ,so a lot of messing about to get even temp on all rads . It had a 15mm to upstairs then split off to 10mm to go to bedrooms and of course sod all insulation on 10mm copper -so part of the heat was going into the building before it got to rads
  14. scottishjohn
    Is this very stingy use of cement just to save money . just thinking back to a wall I had pointed by a local --who mixed it very weak ,and it always holds the dampness more than the next bit ,that i did my self , after seeing how he charged for a rough job , but i mixed good and strong and the water from rain does not stay on it or in it like the weak mixed section . so my point being if any dampness is about it could track through the weak mix and hold moisture ? where as strong it won,t go through it or hold it . comments please
  15. scottishjohn
    I asked my sparky about these --he was in for a puncture repair "do not use --can cause condensation in certain circumstances and anyway there are plastic versions if you must,but he would go with dry wall boxs or wooden "dwangs to fix too ",as they call them in scotland
  16. scottishjohn
    I,m just waiting for a drone to fly over me it will get both barrels with no4 + full choke
  17. scottishjohn
    a set of plans would be a good starting point for people to look at to give sound advice
  18. scottishjohn
    I used 3/4"ply on top of chipboard in the cupboard where 300 litre tank was fitted to spread the load better maybe a problem in new build --all beams seem very skinny
  19. scottishjohn
    you do know integra spec are made in ireland and you can get quote from them direct --might be worth a comparison
  20. scottishjohn
    so are you saying leave a small gap in corners +ceiling joint and fill with plaster before skim tape
  21. scottishjohn
    sorry do not understand what you are saying a better description please
  22. scottishjohn
    at that price you can chuck it away if it gets too blocked ,like you replace roller inserts. If under a tight time constraint i would definately buy 2
  23. scottishjohn
    Ok guys whats the view on using combination of glue +minimum screws to speed up the job,as they do in other countries not dot+dab on solid wall --but when fixing to stud work
  24. scottishjohn
    all i would say is the macerators I have used are not very reliable and will need changing every couple of years if you are as lucky with them as I have been . so avoid like the plaque if possible one of them was just for a wash hand basin ,which only really ever got water down it no smelly solids
  25. scottishjohn
    so if you want these great big folding window walls then you gotta allow for air con in build then . having been in australia most just air con one or two rooms,definately the bedroom and mostly the lounge as well with a wall mounted blower unit --very quiet and simple to fit but normal people don,t go for full house system . they just have what looks like a car port in the yard" as they call it ,with the barbie under it in the " and live outside maybe that,s what you in the SE are going to be doing in the future , what we spend on heating they spend on air con .LOL my daughter is in sydney and after 5years out there she really complains when in their winter it drops to 20c - and always wants thermals brought out . lottery win and i,m out there --average 28-35 c --great
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