scottishjohn

Ok --then buy a truck load of preservative .lol years ago we had a chalet park which had sweedish wood chalets and they needed treating every 4 years the cladding was vertical and every 10ft or so on each wall was an expansion joint when they needed doing you could put your fingers in the gap,or close to it treat it and the gaps dissappeared the makes was xyladecor -- very slightly tinted in colour --and was like piss,didn,t seem to have any sort of lacquer in it --but it went on easy and just disappeared into the wood it did work very well and smelled a bit like parafin--definately not water based was not cheap-- but would use it again --chalets were 30 years old when we had it and wood looked like new people we sold it --did not do it so, they have had to re-clad it some years on --and the cheap skates have used horizontal pine ship lap instead of vertical t+g--already looks crap

all the above or why i don,t have a smart phone and use my old one only when i,m away from home area for phone calls --nothing else no doubt mi5 will check up on people like me at some point because we don,t use them .so must be up to no good

https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/live-colourfully/warm-colours/

I would check to see if there is a man made type that gives you the look you want --then up keep is zero

I said that last year LOL will made in china and scotland facotry will be shut

thats video says GLASS wool --not earth wool --so earth wool is really glass wool -

certainly trv valves have been virtually std on all systems for years now ,so you can have rooms at different temps --so yes they should be fitted anyway and a good starting point.. I certainly do not like the idea of copper pipes buried in concrete --they could corrode with the lime in the concrete +you will be loosing lots of heat into the concrete sounds like a real FIY job all round . time to call in a REAL heating engineer and get some on site advice and i,m pretty sure what will say

from what my sparkie told me --real electrical conduit --not plumbing stuff -is not pvc but some sort of modifed plastic it will shatter if you jump on it --so more like an abs blend --pvc usually just squishs when you stand on it .# worth checking with an electrical parts supplier though . my guess is the cheap brand is pvc --and more expensive is the right stuff

the old brown envelope always works LOL.

I also believe there is a different spec of wiring --eg insulation is different material for inserting directly into the foam ,but fitting in electrical conduit would also work how about this for ducting to distribution board https://www.electricalworld.com/en/gb/Stadium-1M-4x2-White-Flat-Rectangular-Flat-Ducting/m-3526.aspx?PartnerID=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=UnitedKingdom&gclid=CjwKCAjwqLblBRBYEiwAV3pCJmmisvX-D83TcQelQ5wjEUPAkvRpImkJXXdDkQNa-d_oTb9bs-XMHxoC0pEQAvD_BwE

a good lesson for all sort all specs before going for planning and don,t change things

Is this a common requirement with a new house now ? that far exceeds even scottish build regs does it not?

If there was any dust on sheets when you did it that could be the reason why it came unstuck ,also temp could be a factor . was this aluminium tape or plastic type that is coloured silver. the real aluminium tape sticks very well if surface is dust free downside to alli tape is it will not like movement as it does not stretch ,it breaks so a good quality plastic type should be good if you have any movement in things I used both and found the plastic type was better for my under joist " supa foil blanket " as it tended to be flexible and moved alli great if things were solid non of them were good to seal joints in polystyrene boards --fine if foil backed but not direct on to foam go for 52mm minimum -not the 38mm wide --

pipes go into slab from boiler ? so you have underfloor heating as well as radiators? and there will be 2 pipes going to dhw tank ? does the oil boiler heat the hot water -or is that just from the willis heater ? If you cannot work out the plumbing or draw a diagram of it no one on here will be able to help so you will need to get a plumber in to sort it out how old is the boiler --is it self condensing type?

I was talking to an insulation spray contractor today as i may be having a change of plan and re instating a 200 year old building anyway my question to him was is it water proof? only closed cell is fully water proof he said they use it on barn conversions for exactly that purpose- I am considering spraying whole inside of the building walls --then basically building a TF house inside a 30mm layer is enough for that job -- so seems maybe a good way for old buildings to stop moisture penetration through old outer walls . will be running it by my architect if I get it-- open cell will not make a total water proof barrier

are there any GOOD paints these days bring paints we had 20 years ago --that covered and dried and had a good lasting finish and don,t leave brush marks all modern one are rubbish that i have seen or used not sure how eco friendly it is having to repaint 3 times as often as old style paints. my dad was a master painter and decorator when he came back from the war ,being an engineer before the war --and he showed me how to use a brush = not asking for lead based paints --but certainly new types are rubbish , maybe why very few full gloss finishs used these days on doors etc

to make it better you need a bit of a plumbing alteration so you can have hot water +heating under separate control from the boiler . make a drawing the system and post it up and I,m sure NICK --will tell you want you need to change

and? just a different way to do same job. + he can,t find a uk supplier for the polar and asked for compact alternatives --but still no mvhr like genex so thats why I posted what i did his choice --dont, think he wants to get into the tecchie bits -just looking for a compact system no need to make this into a big deal

correct and that is what the polar video showed video showed ufh +dhw --no mvhr he was confusing the polar system with the genvex system i watched it twice and nothing about mvhr

the polar system he linked with video does not do MVHR --only ufh +dhw which is why i suggested eco dan

I watched the video you linked looks like a mitsubishi eco dan with pre-plumbed hot water tank+controller --which does just the same as that system an only has 2 units as that does I have one and very happy with it

that's a real problem If I saw it and had not read this I would be thinking there was a damp problem and it was cladded with hard board .LOL --but you say its only when it gets hot .and there is venting behind I like the suggestion of a temp probe behind and maybe a moisture one as well ,just to rule it out . you or somebody going to be ripping it all off and starting again ,thats for sure could a TF shrink that much ? and if it did why is it expanding again when not hot ? is there a moisture problem which is drying out in hot weather ? and is it only on side which faces the sun? really weird problem you got there wish you good luck in solving it silly suggestion ,but is your tumble dryer vent leaking into cavity and steaming the back of it ?

https://econekt.co.uk/ in glasgow

I see no reason why not . different if you were hard plastering or having to fix to bricks used both and if good ones no probs and you don,t have to worry if sparkie has fitted all the grommets in the knock out holes knock outs leave very sharp edge ,and can cut cable insulation if it is pulled hard against it Yes its law to fit grommets ,but seen plenty that have got missed or fallen out and hanging on cable leaving cable touching sharp edge on box and you can even buy a box hole cutting tool to fit on your multicut - makes a nice square hole in plasterboard or brick

when in doubt fit a big lump of plywood dwanged to the studs in the approx area behind plaster board where i think things will be --plenty of room for mistakes then , or should I say people changing their mind on exact fittings-- got to hand to the rough arse builder who built my present timber frame in late 70,s --the studs inside+ out were all covered in osb,closed panel sysytem - you can fit anything anywhere -- pity he didn,t take as much care with filling them with insulation down side is its a bit of a bugger to fit drywall boxs in new places on exterior walls , cos its too thick , cos plasterboard is 15/16mm + thickness of osb