scottishjohn

I used a different strategy when picking make of heat pump . after sales service and how close approved engineer not expecting problems ,but you need it fixed in good time and by a man who knows the product price was secondary "quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten "

not if you do it in sensible amounts at a time --it will bond to itself no problem --so mix it up run round the walls --make sure it does not hit the sides half way down ,or it could block it and leave a void ,put in in layers. I used to use it to strengthen moulds or as part of a mould if using a latex liner for easy removal of grp moulding you wanted --I usedit to make old mini battery boxs --they were always rotting off and to the back of moulds that you wanted not to distort -,like 3 piece wing moulds for old ford zodiac,. a bit that on the back of the grp mould before you remove from pattern -its then solid and i mean solid ,really gets a proper skin

2 pack foam www.cfsnet.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000002.pl?page=search&SS=2+part+expanding+foam+&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=.

I think you should ask sunamp for some PCM and make the unit you want JS show them how it should be done you seem to have all the required expertise

i would ask your supplier to explain this .lower the number the better it should be how ever both those numbers are good does not seem correct .

I would just glue the T+G when fitting them together as well

preplumbed mitsubishi clyinder and controller has all that covered -heats up water every now and then hotter than normal ,aslo has an immersion in as well it has all pumps on it etc --a good package -go look at it

I went for the ecodan +preplumbed cylinder from them --which does your hot water from the ASHP as well no doubt others will tell you can do it cheaper and i would n,t disagree ,if you are hands on and want to learn all about heat pumpps etc - -but i went for simplicity and only I man to call if a problem I was on lpg --changing to ASHP and changing nothing else on the old UFH system I saved over £1000 per year on running costs--my house is an older TF from the 80,s --not super insulated like a new one you will build so yes ASHP will be cheapest and simplest solution IMHO

One of the reasons I am contemplating a "wet wall" --type of construction ==so there is a walk in service access( for slim folk ) down north side of house where you want few windows . from one end connected to service room a waste of space you may say --but any alterations in future can be done without destroying and internal finishes. may not be possible --we will see

think its as simple as you suspect it is ,but are wanting someone to tell you it don,t matter .LOL bung up every gap you can see and wrap it all and seal or staple it all down with decent overlaps you will never get at these bits again

Iwas tempted --if they had longer rails to go with it

you could use "brick slips" on any type of construction --they are much thinner--as a outer finish -

not sure how many want to pay the price for a long track --£200 ?

yes i bought a straight edge thats a clamp as well --fine for 4ft cut --but not long enough for other way www.onbuy.com/gb/clamps-and-vices/silverline-guide-clamp-1270mm-675056-guide-clamp-silverline-675056-1270mm~c5692~p3373033/ but neither are normal track saw unless you buy more extensions hardly the end of the world to clamp a bit of studding to a sheet anyway

yes I know that -,but in practise they quite often don,t follow proper guidelines or are overuled by councillors if it gets that far -but that is why the planning want more time to look at it and make a decision at this time but you can then challenge them if they up hold his objection and pay to have some fancy planning man fight it for you - but thats later

distance is fine for legal --but its what your planning man says about the objection--that will decide it. are you higher up than neighbour ?

nope it will be fine done that before when buying seconds --works fine just different backing basically ,still PIR foam

what ever you do it needs to be binding agreement for all subsequent owners of that land --so it will cost you money If you don,t then if owner changes --he could decide he don,t like it so yes something you going to need legals on

just a thought --where is the temp sensor for the ashp --.could it be its just circulating water around your piping that feeds the actual UFH and its sensing drop in temp there which is then causing it to come back on for short time then going off again sounds like your polypipe controller is not linked correctly to ecodan . maybe a plumber who is ecodan trained?

my first question would be does this used a pre plumbed cylinder from mitsubishi as well or just the ASHP are these plumbers approved ecodan trained men ? I have an ecodan pump+preplumbed cylinder which is running faultless and i have 8 zones on my system ,none of problem s you are talking about

mimium pressure fro my ecodan to work is 0.5bar--but engineer says he likes 0.8

because of BIK --I dont, run through my biz -at all I bought a new car --and run it private all depends on your circumstances and if you are into "street cred" my 9year old c-crosser is going fine spent nothing on it but tyres +brakes +servicing so due to value it will run till either it dies or I do both will be consigned to landfill at that point . If a customer asks me the best +cheapest way to run a car i tell them this buy a new one or under year old -- buy not lease start a separate bank account --for car expense once you have paid it off then and this is the important bit -- keep putting 50% of car payments in each month and run the car from that account by the time it is getting seedy --7 + years old you will have enough money in that account to go buy a another new one don,t work if you into "street cred" car purchase is either head or heart ,always has been . by that time they may have really viable electric car ,that don,t cost a fortune

just remember if putting UFH in slab --you got to get it right --you can,t start moving internal walls or things that fix to slab after or pipes will be in wrong places I think this is why builders like to do it in screed when walls are up and roof on customers have a habit of changing their minds on things maybe

fur coat and no knickers as they used to say

cold WC my solution was to fit more UFH in the wc than the hall --then let hall thermostat sort it out my guess is most put less UFh to dodge round things - I closed the pipe runs up as much as I could did same in bathroom as well works fine -bog is nice and warm +probably the window in there is open more than any other due to noxious smells