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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. A lot of the systems I have seen have a drainage channel between the insulation and the timber frame sheathing, which I would have thought would not be great thermally. If you choose to do this make sure the system has a BBA cert and that BC and your warranty provider are on board.
  2. If it just sounds hollow, it may be fully adhered over much of the tile, so I would either leave it (preferred option) or break it into pieces with a sharp blow in the centre. What adhesive did you use and do you have UFH?
  3. We used pink mesh cloth. You apply a thin coat of LAC and bed the mesh in while it is still wet. You can get very thin corner beads as well. On one plinth we did the LAC / mesh cloth, then tiled with slate strips fixed with tile adhesive, which looked quite good.
  4. I have used Weber LAC. First thin coat with mesh bedded, then second thin coat floated / sponged to a sanded finish. It sticks to anything. Paint with masonry paint.
  5. It is a bit annoying they didn't use 1:60 firrings but it won't make any difference to you. The roof will leak if the membrane fails, whether the fall is correct or not. Correct membrane install and upstand detailing is what is important here, not fall.
  6. No. They are more expensive.
  7. Brickwork often works out a much cheaper option for external skin.
  8. If you have space and one of the TF crew can drive a telehandler this may prove more useful and cheaper.
  9. You may want to consider demolition of the existing building. This will free up some potential design restraints, make the construction simpler and you will be able to reclaim the VAT.
  10. Tilt turn are good on upper floors as they can be cleaned from the inside. Downside is they will clash with curtains or blinds. To clean outward opening windows from the inside you need either top hung reversible or side guided, where the hinge slides towards the middle of the window to allow cleaning.
  11. The people we use do outline and elevations of the nearby buildings as well which is helpful in setting out and if you need context elevations. The survey information forms the basis of all other drawing information. Later we get them back to set out on the foundation concrete the corners of the walls, the centres of soil pipes and steelwork, wind posts and baseplates, all marked with a Hilti pin. They are very accurate.
  12. This is something that makes sense but I never see it happen on site.
  13. No problem at all. Most garages are just single skin and while they can get a bit damp in extreme conditions they are OK. If you plan to use the garage as a workshop you may want to insulate the cavity.
  14. OK get the ply screwed down, then tile the walls, then grout and polish, then fit shower screen and complete plumbing and wiring, then paint ceiling, then fit LVT, then mastic.
  15. We have grown Eleagnus (x Ebbingi?) in the past as a screen. Evergreen, grew tall and has fragrant flowers in winter. Quite tough too.
  16. I suggest that you do not go shopping for a sofa if you are tired and have be traipsing round for hours, as everything you sit on will feel comfortable in relation to the hell that is shopping. You will be tempted into anything so as not to prolong the retail pain.
  17. You could take this approach...
  18. What a great looking project - amazingly ambitious - especially for a 1st build! Just the excavation looks like it would have been quite daunting.
  19. I like Egger Protect 22mm chipboard. The coating is permanent and on both sides so if you have subsequent leaks it should not turn to Weetabix too quickly.
  20. We have fitted limestone in some bathrooms. It needs to be sealed regularly and kept clean. Not very practical but it looks good. We now use LVT (luxury vinyl tile) for floors and porcelain for walls.
  21. Not sure what the issue is. Does the cable offend? If so, do as @joe90 suggests.
  22. You should have a chamber near the boundary of your property. Make the drains up to that point as shallow as possible as they will be cheaper and safer to lay and easier to access and rod if ever needed (which they probably won't be). Lay the bit from your chamber to the sewer connection as steep as is needed.
  23. No, as long as it is over 1:60 there is no maximum. You should, however, provide access / inspection points at the change in gradient.
  24. Depending on the main sewer size you may be able to connect via a saddle connection.
  25. Put air bricks on opposite sides and if possible all sides. They rely on a flow of natural air. If the garage is enclosed there may be an issue with poor air entering under the building.
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