Mr Punter

Also if you transfer the plot you may need to declare it at open market value and pay stamp duty on the value. If it is an issue you could do the transfer before you obtain planning - to keep the value low. I have only come up against this issue with a transfer between companies owned by me and the position between spouses may be different.

I have an architect who likes to work this way. I think the bonus was about 5% on top of the planning stage work.

I did an office to resi when it was first introduced. Although it was PD, the bank would not lend a penny until we had the prior approval consent from the LA. Even to get this, we had to commission some contaminated land reports and submit plans and an application form. We had another scheme elsewhere turned down as the LA were concerned that the building was near to the site of some redundant underground tanks, so we withdrew from the purchase as it tipped the viability balance. Like I said in my first post: There is no need for you to fall out with the seller over this as should the overage not be payable, the seller will have a claim against their solicitor (or their PI insurance) for negligence and so need not be out of pocket.

I suggest you take professional legal advice, perhaps from the solicitor who dealt with the purchase. You still need to make an application under part Q and gain written consent from the LPA. Does the seller hold a charge over the land?

Yes

You need to be pretty handy with the tin snips for cutting Lindab and fitting outlets. Saw or grinder is a no-no as the rough edges rust where a clean cut has less surface area and will heal with galv.

A risky request...

I thought this was just the frame underneath, not enamel applied to the glass. If enamel was applied to the top surface of the glass I agree that it should have been shown on the plan view.

I am not sure what you mean @craig. The sections look fairly clear and they show upstands, the metal frame, the single pane inside the upstands, an air gap, and the larger laminated glass pane that fits right up to the edge of the frame. The plan view shows the laminated glass shaded and I think that had it also showed the frame underneath it may have caused confusion. Perhaps an additional plan from the underside would have been sensible. I would have liked some annotation on the drawing and some titles and I am not clear on what "B.U" stands for. I am not clear if this drawing was the extent of the information sent out.

Reclaimed slate? If so do you have enough for the whole roof?

I must say that the woman doing the presentation in @scottishjohn's video was rather captivating!

I think this is a grey area and just gives an example of when this is standard rated, not when it MAY be zero rated. For me it makes no difference as we run this as a business and can reclaim the VAT in any case, but we have always been charged VAT for SIs. I have spoken to HMRC before re: zero or reduced rating and their take is that it is up to the supplier to apply the lowest applicable rate.

VAT charged 20% on ours.

Give him a chase - email then phone.

I have a friend who does a fair bit of student lets and rarely has issues. They are jointly and severally liable for damage and repairs and in some instances also for the rent. In any case, parents are obliged to act as guarantor. The sort of behaviour by @pocster's tenants would be more in line with an emergency housing / hostel setup.

With the Velfac system the outward opening ali sash is the same size as the fixed internal timber frame, so if you rendered up to the window you would not be able to open it and nor would it drain correctly. Their detail is to render the returns first, then the window size is the render-to-render size minus 12mm per side and top, and 20mm for the bottom. The window is then fitted with a 15mm cill packer at the bottom and fitted in the opening. The gap is sealed with foam on the inside and Compriband externally. Double check all the measurements as it is easy to mess up.

To be fair to her she did well. She has a better aim than me!

Make sure that in the event of a blocked outlet the water will flow down the stairs, not through the doors.

The rigid full fill boards are a bitch to install and the chances are the brickie will lash them in however they can - upside down, wider cavity, gaps or whatever.

A bit of a change in the weather from setting out to pouring the slab!

If that is the finished value you will need to be very careful that your total costs do not exceed this. There are lots of areas where savings could be made but I think you may need a bit of a redesign. There is currently a lot of wall, window, roof (and scaffold etc) in relation to floor area.

How does the render work with the ICF? You could do the top bit in timber frame with an aluminium coping.

First fix one day for 2 chippies. Would take me 2 weeks. Would take @Onoff 6 months.

Done correctly it will have a door either at the top or the bottom of the new staircase and will have an escape window Velux or dormer. If it is not intended as a habitable room and is only classed as storage or hobby space, building regs are not required. If it is a bedroom they will need to have a completion certificate and failing that they must not advertise it as a bedroom.

And I assume there are bifolds running the length? If so, there is not much you can do. Put lots wherever else and make sure there is lots of ventilation through any cross walls. Oh and I don't know what system you are using but @Russell griffiths had some real issues on an ICF with the concrete squashing the telescopic vents.