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Mr Punter

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  1. Mr Punter
    Copyright is far from straightforward but if you want to go to another timber frame firm or another build method you will probably need a fresh set of drawings in any case. It is very expensive to sue for breach of copyright and if your new drawing is in any way different you can claim that it is a new, original design.
  2. Mr Punter
    Best to stop the screed at doorways as it will perhaps crack. Leave a 10mm expansion gap exactly halfway under where the door will be. Do the same for tiles if you are having them.
  3. Mr Punter
    Also you would not get a structural warranty and therefore no mortgage and you could not resell.
  4. Mr Punter
    I was NHBC registered for a while as they were pretty much the only show in town at one stage. Sometimes you would get a decent inspector but mostly it was just the same checklist for the stage and they would look at stuff like door closers and window locks then shift to other irrelevant things. I would say the chances of a claim succeeding is close to zero, although I did have one where someone had weather ingress around a door - just needed re-sealing - after 7 years and NHBC "invited" me to fix it to keep my claims record clean. As I was liable for only 2 years I didn't play ball and in the end NHBC got someone to do the work without cost to the customer or me.
  5. Mr Punter
    You will need solid blocking at each end between the joists to stop them twisting. Get the floor designer to spec how these are fixed.
  6. Mr Punter
    I am not sure of all the rules with agricultural PD rights but you will often be obliged to retain a fair amount of structure so there is no guarantee that your proposal will gain consent. It can also take ages, so factor in an additional 6 months. If the current consent would work for you as a fallback you may be able to start work on some of the basics while you wait.
  7. Mr Punter
    Not sure what boards were used, what fixings were used and what they were fixed to? I would normally expect to see min 25mm x 50mm battens at 600mm max centres fixed vertically through the sheathing to the timber frame studs with min 60mm stainless screws at max 250mm centres. The boards then fixed to the battens with 30mm stainless screws at max 200mm centres.
  8. Mr Punter
    @Bitpipe Is there continuous ventilation at the base of the cladding system with a decent path up behind? Is it just this gable end or other walls too?
  9. Mr Punter
    Jesus!
  10. Mr Punter
    They do a 90mm ring nail for the im350 But just checked and not the case
  11. Mr Punter
    Not used Mayply but as discussed earlier I have been cautioned against use of Magnesium Oxide boards. I would go BBA certified.
  12. Mr Punter
    Most of the shrinkage movement in timber frame is at floor junctions, so horizontal joints are often specified at this location. I don't understand why you would need vertical movement joints in timber frame render onto board.
  13. Mr Punter
    Probably a bit more weather resilient too.
  14. Mr Punter
    @Triassic I am trying to picture your batten arrangement as it is often OK to just fix a vertical batten to the timber frame, then your render carrier board fixes to these.
  15. Mr Punter
    The smooth Paslode hot dip galv are good. They have a coloured coating on the tip that lubricates, then heats ups and acts as a glue. They are more difficult to pull out than the ring shank ones and will have shards of wood glued to the end if you extract them.
  16. Mr Punter
    Very easy to hit a nail or a knot and it is very tempting to take a firm hold of the thing you are nailing, but if your hand is within 4 inches of the nail it can still be vulnerable. I have seen nails bend right round and make their way out of the same side of the stud.
  17. Mr Punter
    If you put a @ in front of a name you can pick from a dropdown list and they will get a notification @Annemay I have attached a pdf of how the kitchen could be. Untitled-1.pdf
  18. Mr Punter
    In the bathroom can you have a fan with a delay start timer? Also, do they like to dry clothes on the radiators? If so, a continuous fan near the source would help. Duct out the cooker hood if pos.
  19. Mr Punter
    Have you got all the rooflights in, flashings done, parapet walls complete and copings on?
  20. Mr Punter
    He could more easily have fitted an extra noggin to the right, shifted everything over a bit and had the stud spacing out the backboxes by 38mm. Studs look plenty chunky enough to take it though.
  21. Mr Punter
    Paslode im350 for first fix. Compressor and air nailer for second fix as the holes are so much cleaner.
  22. Mr Punter
    15mm taper edged plasterboard, taped and filled x 3, rubbed down and painted will give a very good finish, is cheap and is DIYable. Are you doing a driveway or just using the grass?
  23. Mr Punter
    I often see 2.4m studwork with no noggins.
  24. Mr Punter
    What is the finish on the walls?
  25. Mr Punter
    I have just emailed the application and transferred the fee, taking a fair amount of time but saving £20 (well £16.66 actually as we are VAT registered and also with corporation tax maybe only a tenner, so a waste of time but I made my point!). I printed the pdf form via a pdf driver and used the Adobe text, checkbox and sign utilities to fill it in.
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