Mr Punter

Cover the concrete with plastic as soon as you are able, so that it cures properly and you do not get surface dusting.

Get someone to help. It is hard work for 1 person.

@SarahW can you post some pics during and after installation?

It is a very odd configuration. I assume there is some compelling aesthetic reason not to have all the rear rafters at 16.2 deg? As is, there are some horrible junctions and we are only looking at 4 rafters. Bear in mind that the timber may shrink by 15%, so if you have 50mm one side and 150 the other, the shallow pitch may end up 15mm lower. Can you modify the steel?

With brick and block you may get 0.12 - 0.13 with rigid insulation, insulated plasterboard and lightweight block inner leaf.

Fairly simple to DIY. Quick too if the units are assembled. As you have worked out, if the worktop is to be joined with a masons mitre and bolted underneath it is best done with a jig. Cutting down and fitting end fillets and corner fillets takes a while but if they are well done make the job look professional.

If there is a sawmill anywhere near you could ask them for a price to do this as it is a fair bit of material. I am not sure that larch is particularly durable. Is it treated?

7.3 newton concrete block is best for impact resistance. Bet you sympathise with full time brickies now you have tried it!

You may be able to request a bigger meter but they often charge a higher standing charge because they are not so good at recording low flow rates apparently. We have a 50mm meter for fire sprinklers, just to establish there are no leaks and we are not nicking water. No standing charge for fire only supplies. We had a fitting go and the volume of water was epic!

The steps are a fair bit of work and also a security issue. It would be simpler without.

On blockwork, yes. On carrier boards we used Weber LAC and mesh. About 4mm total, sponge finish and painted. Very sticky but finishes OK. Don't get it on your car seats!

Make sure you have really good access to the unit. I loft mounted a Vent Axia Kinetic Sentinel Plus and the only way to get at the filters is to disconnect some of the hoses and commando crawl to the far end of the unit. I doubt the new owners have ever cleaned the filters. It was a struggle for me to do.

To make it work, either have a concrete blockwork background or use render carrier board such as Bluclad, plus a mesh and render system. I have done both and NO cracking at all. I am no fan of through coloured renders as they often seem to discolour.

Floor scraper or a Big Mutt

In the 80s it was not unusual for itinerant skilled workers to get paid on Friday, go into town Saturday and buy a new suit, get pissed up, have a fight in a nightclub and wear the same suit to the building site on the Monday.

With surface water, as long as you can rod / jet, the ICs are not considered important.

We got between B85 and B88 over seven terraced houses. No renewables or MVHR.

If the blockwork is the final finish it will need to be as good as facework. Is this a commercial building?

You would see a massive improvement with PV.

How about a sheet of mesh fabric? A142 and A252 seem to get spec'd frequently.

Blimey you have not had much luck with this, have you?

It is often good to have your own space and some 'adult' space where the kids / teenagers are not TOO close. Same for wrinklies, guests etc.

Can you not have piles, concrete ring beam, beam and block ground floor with brick and block ground floor walls and timber frame above? No issues with corrosion, fire protection or flood resilience. You could externally clad the timber frame walls in slate, hanging tile or cement weatherboard.

Rub with a dry bar of soap and polish off with a soft cloth.

They used shipping containers to house homeless in Brighton. Not cheap to do and not that popular. https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/gq8jyq/i-spent-the-night-in-brightons-homeless-shipping-container-housing-project