Mr Punter

That is a shame as it would give a really generous room and the corridor is wasted space. I did not see a bedroom on the first floor, so I thought there was no point in a bathroom. Pocket doors are not structural, so I think there may be some confusion here. They can be useful for saving space but restrict the opening width and are more difficult to operate. Your plans show them in all bathrooms and the kitchen on what appear to be non-structural walls.

They need to strip the slates and soakers around the roof windows and re-lay them properly.

I am with @Temp regarding the change of materials so this could be worth exploring. I know you did not ask for comments on the design but I am happy to make some unsolicited! 1. On the first floor you have moved the wall by the bedroom a little to make a wider corridor. If you remove it you can incorporate this into you living room. 2. The bathroom at first floor could be replaced with a WC and handbasin and the 600mm or so of space incorporated into the kitchen diner. You could make the landing a little wider as the WC would not need to be as deep as the bathroom. Also, 3 bathrooms are not needed for 2 bedrooms and losing the window means you cannot revert the middle room to a bedroom. If you want to put up occasional guests, get a quality sofa bed. 3. Not sure why you want the nibs of wall in the living room. 3. Pocket doors are a PITA. Difficult to open and close and the walls can be flimsy and poor at sound insulation. 1 and 2 will give an extra 2.5m2 in the living room, and 2.5m2 in the kitchen / dining. I think the room shapes and sizes will be much better too.

Just get on with building. They do not stick around in houses.

When you replace it could you move it along a bit so you can get to it from the window? Doh! I thought he had a light on the fascia board that needed replacing, not just a gutter clip.

What grounds did the council give for requiring the 200mm reduction?

I think it is worth having a site induction where you include site specific risks. Get each site worker to read it and sign to say they have. I also ask for evidence they have received H & S training, such as a photocopy of their CSCS card. If you have these you may be obliged to have them tested and certified. They are also difficult to dispose of. I have about 8 water extinguishers F.O.C to collector in Lewes if anyone wants them.

We had some Siberian Larch - a splinter fest to handle.

Try https://www.vastern.co.uk/prices/

I have had a Meile integrated bean to cup, which I would not recommend as it was rather demanding, the coffee was not great, and they cost a lot. I have had 3 freestanding bean to cup - a Jura, which looked good and performed OK, a Delongi. similar to the Jura but did not look so flashy and currently on a Melitta, which does the best milk frothing. Melitta is best IMO.

Render on block is probably cheapest. Cedral / Hardie plank type boards or render onto carrier boards is more expensive but you could diy the fitting.

I think @AnonymousBosch would agree with you there. Keep up the good work!

No I have never used it. https://www.sageglass.com/eu/case-studies/waves-beaulac-hotel-switzerland looks like they have it. If it needs mains electric I guess they have to build this into the track at the top or bottom, like a tram.

You could consider SageGlass. I think it is very expensive but very effective.

Must have been a pain lifting the blocks over the rebar. How are you getting the concrete up to fill them? Will you wait until the wall is full height?

What a great location! So it looks like you have gone for a mix of hollow and solid concrete blocks. Are you filling the hollows with concrete? Jumping ahead a bit, what fixings are you looking at for the timber support battens through the insulation?

I like the look of it. I would look at foam for the grey uholstered bit and perhaps the drawers would be more practical if they were in line with the top of the mattress. I am with @JSHarris on the sticking out bed frame! It made me wince just looking at as I imagined shinning myself in the middle of the pitch black night.

It is so annoying having poorly insulated pipework heating up areas that do not need heat. Go especially crazy with the recirculating run you are planning.

@JanetE how did you "split" the plots? Did you transfer part to someone else?

I doubt this would happen as fire will normally travel up, not down, so if a fire breaks out on an upper storey, the storeys below are normally OK. We have used Fermacell as sheathing to external walls close to other buildings and also on some party walls to compartmentalise. This is supposedly to reduce the fire risk during construction but I guess it would help after completion too. We have smoke detectors and sprinklers in every room and corridor. It is still the case that if a fire breaks out in a cavity they will not be much help. I am just intrigued why the Premier Inn did not seem to have sprinklers or passive fire protection that worked.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-49028337 This shows a Premier Inn ablaze and a large part of it collapsed. I suspect it is timber frame as lots of their newer builds are. Quite why the fire spread through the building and caused such destruction I do not know, but it does raise some concerns.

The windows will have max dimensions for the type and I would advise making sure you are well within them. Fit them yourself and you will be fine.

I had a look at some images of this and they all seemed to come with a short bit of pipe attached. Not so with yours @8ball?

As far as I know the only way to "split" the title is to transfer part of the land. This may be possible if, say, the land is currently in joint names and you transfer to sole name or vice versa. You could also transfer part to a ltd company owned by you. You can do the transfer for nil consideration, so no CGT, but check with lawyer and accountant first.

I would not want the straps on the edge or the outside face of the outer leaf and rendered over. Would be near impossible to change the windows without wrecking the render. Why not have them fix to the inner leaf with longer straps?