Mr Punter

I have not seen these used in a single dwelling - just in stairwells for flats. I guess because of this it needs to be anti tamper. £20 for a key seems a bit cheeky. Maybe explain to Velux that you were not issued with a key and see what they say.

Wait until spring. If you fill any cracks in the render, then insulate the lintel void you should be OK.

And you can scrap any plans to set up the Scalextric in the new loft.

The water could be getting in anywhere on the wall. The bigger the wall and the more exposed the worse it will be. It may be worth doing a close inspection next spring, when the weather is better. Check for cracks and hollow areas.

I may have this wrong but could it be lack of any cavity tray and weep holes above the lintel? This would normally be a DPC sloping down from the inner leaf and built into the brickwork above the lintel.

Red but scrap the kitchen IC. Use the bathroom near to utils in the main run inlet, with a bend just before the IC. Use the 2 inlets on the left of the IC for utils and kitchen, the R/H 45 inlet for the other bathroom and blank off the final inlet.

They look OK but I would be concerned if they needed replacing - flaking paint, rust etc. Also I like recessed fittings fire rated and OK in insulation without needing to add hoods.

Maybe worth CCTV or rod to check the rest of the drains on site.

You may be able to see the Environmental Health comments online. If they suggest a contamination condition it will almost certainly be added to your consent. If no contamination you will still need some soil information for soil type, bearing capacity and groundwater presence. Basement is easier if you have plenty of space around so you have room to work when you build the walls.

Would Aco type drains around the perimeter of your property work instead? You can feed downpipes into these and they will also catch the surface water from the yard. Not sure about your neighbours though.

Indeed, but that one seemed to have a huge amount of insulation and the walls were not built off the slab.

I would want to see a vertical DPC where the frame abuts the existing wall.

We have a house with flood resilient construction. The ground floor walls have full fill Celotex and the floors are beam and block with EPS under and around the beams. I am slightly concerned that the house may lift up in the event of a flood...

If you are able to do an insulated reinforced raft, there is a saving on the slab and insulation. With piles and ringbeam or deep trenchfill you will probably need to have a beam and block floor. Make a load of calls for muckaway quotes. There may be a landfill site needing capping or a farmer with a field depression he wants to raise.

Since you are outside a conservation area and no TPOs you can (and should) remove any unwanted tress without any consents. Do this BEFORE you apply for consent for the housing. Don't concern yourself with whether the planners will "like" this or not. You have done nothing wrong. If you apply for consent BEFORE removing the unwanted trees they may include a planning condition or TPOs, which could interfere with your scheme.

@Dan Feist other topc:

Leave it til summer when the warm will make the gutter more pliable, then send a teenager up to do it.

Can I hear wedding bells? Or will it be a ménage à trois with @zoothorn, @Onoff and @pocster?

In the 90s in Brighton they did a budget self build community scheme. https://www.selfbuild-central.co.uk/first-ideas/examples/hedgehog-co-op/ Perhaps there is a Community Land Trust near you where you can get together with like minded others.

The wall could take lots more. The cantilever is not very big, and neither are the loads. It would be good to see some more fixings on the bracket lugs, especially at the top.

I would do as @Russell griffiths suggests. If the frames are dark with the ali flashing to match it won't stand out. Btw you may want to lose the tiny triangular window in the corner of bed 3.

I have had wind posts specified quite often. Used to support and strengthen masonry. The ones I have had just bolt down to the foundation with expansion bolts, so not really a £250 each job! I have fitted 13 of these on my own in less than a day.

You often get a locating plate or sole plate at the bottom of the panels and a head binder plate around the top.

Is it stuck down with mastic or Gripfil? If you are not going to use it again I suggest smack with a lump hammer. Wear goggles.

I have a similar roof buildup. I joists installed flat, chipboard decking, firrings, OSB, VCL (polythene), insulation, OSB, waterproofing, tiles on adjustable pedestals. Tapered insulation is expensive. Unvented voids are not an issue. That is what you have in joist zones of upper floors.