Mr Punter

A building near me has used this. They have perforated fence panels with metal posts. A guy I know did some of the house cladding. No fun to work with. It is very heavy , the rust gets everywhere and it may pollute your garden. Can you not render the concrete wall or build a brick facing and finish the top with some alu or stone copings?

Light colour Corian is a real pain to clean and marks very easily. Scratches quite easily but does not break. Seamless joins. Granite is good if you find a colour you like. Can be broken on impact. Glass can scratch. Marble - a bit softer and stains and can be broken on impact. Quartz - decent stuff in light colours is expensive. Does not scratch stain or break. Timber - a good deal of work to maintain. The least sustainable species are the most durable. Polished concrete. Expensive and looks are personal taste. Specialist install. Make sure you really like it.

No electric so I have LED strip powered from a Makita 18v battery and a buck converter.

With bedrooms, unless for single occupancy it is good to allow 750mm either side of the bed for bedside table and to walk around, so for a proper double room, put the bed on a wall that is at least 3000mm. Also, make allowance for wardrobe / clothes storage of at least 1500mm per person, 600mm deep. Work out where curtains and blinds are going and how you will operate them. Is it worth spending a few quid with an architect for some quick sketches? Get a quote first.

No it will not crush. As long as the block are dry you will be fine. If not, run DPC over them.

Well maybe Gustave Eiffel had a Total Station and just kept it quiet. Shared it with the Forth Bridge chaps. And Brunel. They bought it from Abraham Darby.

The trouble is everyone wants the job to be safe but few want to pay for it. Smaller windows can be handled really easily. If you have things over 100kg you need to pay to safely get them to where they need to be. It costs.

Some very sorry tales of Ecohouse. For those in Scotland, Internorm by Scotia seem to have a good reputation. It goes to show how important the agent / dealer / installer is. https://www.internormbyscotia.co.uk/

I agree with @ProDave. The Aico stuff seems really good and decent value. They have the same base for all the different sensor types, so, for example, it is easy to swap out a smoke alarm giving false alarms in a dusty area to a heat alarm. Mine has a separate control panel so you can easily test, locate and silence from one place.

It would be handy if you have a survey of the existing structure and the foundations as well as the proposed location for the steels in the existing building. The architect and engineer should be able to prepare accurate drawings and confirm sizes and just make them subject to site checks by main contractor - to cover arses. I assume the steel fabricator is supply and install? He should also produce some fabrication drawings.

I know they like to do this but I prefer the brickwork first because there is loads more mortar to clean up from the inside face.

Yes, go with the DPC. I would prefer to see the edge of the slab protected or coated. I assume this is not insulated?

I though proper slow grown Siberian larch was classed as durable.

Iroko, Ipe, Teak. Quite a lot of stuff that gets used in marine applications.

A really great flavour and texture pairing there.

Resistant Board is fairly inexpensive. Fill the joins and paint with masonry paint.

I would go back to the planners and say that you believe that the proposal meets the LA standards and that to alter it would compromise the internal space. Even if you did a flat roof extension at 3m high their connie would still be affected, because they built it too close to the boundary. They don't have sole rights on rear extensions.

The outward opening Futura is almost identical to Velfac. The inward opening has the same 50mm sight lines but is alu inner and outer with pur core. I found it best to avoid opening sizes at the limit of available sizes.

As per the other comments. Building regs is only to do with the safety of the wall. It makes no odds whose land it is on.

I really like lift and slide doors so go with Viking for them. No problem mixing but sometimes if you have, say, sliding doors with fixed panes above a single system can work better. Did you look at IdealCombi? V. similar to Velfac but with an insulated core and may be a bit cheaper. Delivery charges may mean it does not work out to spread the order too thin.

The main eave looks to be under 3.0m. If you have to, could you do a dotted line section with the neighbour's connie in the background comparing your proposal to a 6m deep extension 3m high flat roof, which I understand is the max allowable under PD? I can understand why you have applied for this. I agree it will be much nicer to have the vaulted part over the whole kitchen / dining area.

If you have an air test and score more than 10 you will fail. If you score between 6 and 10 you will have to have made significant improvements elsewhere with insulation and glazing. Less than 3 and you will need your MVHR and your house is very well built. Most new houses probably achieve between 4 and 6.

Hi Martin If you post the plans and elevations someone may be able to help. Block out your personal details. Is this being done as Permitted Development or a full planning application?

The brickwork on the right looks OK though, so you could rebuild in brick.

Can you have the same colour and material as the windows? PVC is probably cheapest. I have used powder coated aluminium on timber clad buildings but they are made to order and more expensive than PVC.