Mr Punter

It is fairly risk free to do type C. You lose a small amount of floor space as you have to build a metal stud wall inside the membrane. If you line it first with OSB you will not have issues fixing things to it. You need to form a sump and install pumps in it. I would not spend the extra money on waterproof concrete and external tanking if you have internal as well. Some on here @Bitpipe? have gone without the internal membrane and had it fully guaranteed.

Yes, the CML cert is fine for most lenders. Get a price from the suggested builder and if it is OK see if you can meet with some of their customers before you decide.

Looking at the plots nearby you could get another 4 on there.

Second one looked a lot better.

A shame about the architect. You can sometimes do well looking at your local planning website for new house developments to see who is successful with PP and if you like the style. The plot looks very generous for a single house. I guess you have looked into splitting it, which could help with the cost of the project?

Maybe Uncle Nick tiled the showroom? If they don't work either way, take them back and get something else.

Yes they do. The correct order.

The tiles have double and single width stripes. They need to butt up to the same width stripes, then you know it is the correct way round.

OK the showroom has laid the tiles correctly. You have not. Your top tile need rotating 180 deg. So does the bottom one.

If it is asbestos it is usually fine if it not disturbed. If you need to work on it you can carefully remove a small sample and send it for testing. If you or anyone has already worked on it there is nothing to be done to mitigate this but unlikely to be harmful.

Yes you can fit 22mm P5 chipboard flooring to the ground floor joists. Make sure all joists are sound and there is good airflow beneath.

The one in the last picture is quite an achievement.

It did not improve the image of architects. They did not make the ugly bit any better and in fact spent almost no time or money on it. Just added an unpleasant extension at strange angles. Given the £200k + and three years, it was woeful.

The truss people sometimes offer treated timber as an option.

I would just use brown plugs and 5mm screws. You will need to pilot a smaller hole through the strap, then bend out the way and go with the 6.5. I would not go any higher than I can reach without a hop up. It can be easy to displace the top block if it has no load above. The wind uplift is a bigger deal with lightweight flat roofs than pitched and tiled.

What is your budget? Are you looking for a fully finished doorset, or just doors? I have had a place with lots of 926 doors and they will work well for wheelchair access. It is apparently best if there is a nib of wall at least 200mm on the handle side of the door.

They do all sorts of edge trims and drip profiles to finish this off at verges and eaves. You don't need loads of rubber overhang. I hope he is not claiming that it is finished.

Lots of pre-cut firrings are set to this. 1:40 eats into a lot of sky on a flat roof if it is large.

Your firrings should give you a 1 in 60 fall, so if the high point is in the middle of the 5.5m it will be about 100mm higher than the lowest points.

Is this a current photo? Why not just do a proper warm roof? You may need a lower door and higher upstands for the rooflights.

On a big roof you can get a lot of extra build up with the firrings.

Looking at the drawings I cannot see any firrings to create the required fall on the roof.

I would try to span the roof between your panels rather than on a beam. Could you then get rid of the goalposts and extra footings? Flitch beam is a good plan to span the top of the opening.

He is prime suspect. He touched it last.

These projected 300mm. Much more and you may need brackets or other support.