Mr Punter

Some spots are an absolute bastard to drop down and reinsert. If I were the decorator that task would be by "others".

The 110mm pipe should be in a trench bedded in shingle. Can you post up some plans as @PeterW suggests?

That is a lot of full height glazing in the kitchen. Looks nice on plan but can cause overheating, echo (especially if you have hard floors) and glare. The room may not feel comfortable or easy to live with. Lose the chimneys. They are poor for thermal bridging and airtightness and often problematic for water ingress. Also if you are burning stuff it can really affect indoor and outdoor air quality.

You could have galv steel but it needs to be connected at the base and at the top it will need to pick up all the rafter feet that need support, so you will need something fabricated. Tube section / CHS looks good. Is it going where it won't be accidentally walked into?

I am not sure what you had in mind for the tops of the rafters either. Maybe leadwork or have an aluminium coping fabricated that you can install in sections. It looks a tad like a James Bond baddie lair.

Very nice! Did you have to soak the top battens in water to persuade them round the roof?

Is this for the round house? I was trying to work out where this roof is going. Unless you don't have the room you are better to put all the insulation on the top.

Don't start at 1m deep if you can avoid it. Run the drains as shallow as possible allowing for the type of traffic above. 1:60 is acceptable for 110mm pipe. This make inspection and rodding much simpler, as well as easier installation. You can have the gradients steeper if you want to but if you change gradient you should have an access point. The 40m from your last IC to the treatment plant is near the maximum but should be fine as you have plenty of fall.

Unless the handrail is supported independently you will need the glass to be toughened and laminated. I saw on some balconies near me they only had toughened. A panel failed and that prompted the developer to get the whole lot changed.

No. Are you concerned it won't turn up?

Yes I have one for my hood over the cooker. The fan is mounted in the space above the kitchen. I removed the original fan motor from the canopy and connected a TD Silent 500 150 with 150mm rigid ducting, with flexi where it links to the fan. I used a REB 1-N speed controller to operate it but it was rubbish and the fan would stall on low speed. I swapped this out for a wall mount switch. I think the new fans have 3 speeds. I use the lights on the original canopy. The fan is really quiet and brilliant at extracting. You need big ducting.

If the timber balconies make them unsafe they will all need replacing. It is quite a job to get 200 leaseholders to each stump up £4-5k and it may hang over this for years. Walk away.

Duplicate post

You can get a No mar rubber tip for them.

It is down to how porous your soil is. For depth go with the minimum the crate people recommend for whatever the heaviest vehicle will be. Needs to be at least 5m from buildings.

You would normally run some ply up the pitched section and continue the flat roof waterproofing up under the tiles. In your case it will be quite a long up the slope way because you need insulation and build up for the green roof. Not sure is you need a fall with the system you are using? You could do with a detail drawing of this because you have quite a lot going on and need to make sure everyone understands how to make it work.

It can be difficult to get people to sign in and out. If you have CCTV you could not bother. Do a site induction and get each to sign for this and copy their insurance and CSCS cards.

No the glue is snot coloured but your skin goes black after contact.

A lot of his toys are wifi and rechargeable.

It looks like sand cement. I know people who really like the distressed shabby chic look and would love this in their house just stripped a bit and then waxed or something wanky.

Lap the DPM up 100mm past the DPC. As long as the DPC is installed so it is sticking out a small amount from the blockwork you will be fine, provided you are above ground.

You should have a DPM so no issue with it drying.

A downside of the D4 glue is you get black hands for 2 days. The PVA is much less messy. As with all adhesives, the surfaces need to be clean and free of dust, which does not always happen on site. Typically you will be using a circular saw on an area of already laid floor to cut some boards, with the new stack of boards close to hand and and everything with a nice film of sawdust.

It was not so long ago that they did not use the PU foaming glue, just a PVA one on the t&g between the boards. Nothing on top of the joists and the boards were fixed down with Paslode nails. Most of these worked fine. I have had some floors recently done with PU glue on joists plus screws and have had some squeaks. Neither system is 100% but both are mostly good and squeaks can normally be solved by chucking in a box of screws. Just check it before you put down the floor finish.

Party Wall stuff is sometimes a fee fest. Ultimately it is of no benefit to you unless, for example, you need to underpin their property or erect scaffold on it or demolish part of it in order to carry out your works. Even with an Award in place, if anything goes wrong it will be you who pays. The Award does not mean the works will be safe and it gives you no protection. If you are happy that your foundations do not contravene the 3m rule, just crack on. They could apply for an injunction but they would lose and risk your legal and delay costs as well as their own.