Mr Punter

Empty rooms are really hard to film and photograph. Just a load of blank walls, floors and doors. You can see why show homes are popular.

You have 20m2. if you allow £50/m materials and £80/m labour, plus £250 muckaway it would cost £2,850. You could do it yourself for half that. It is not like the contractor would think you live somewhere posh. If you are doing this to park in the front garden it needs to be done properly. You will need consent from the council and to install a soakaway or permeable paving, plus a dropped kerb to council spec which would need a streetworks licence plus a lot of public liability insurance.

The product looks like the silane / siloxane stuff also branded as Stormguard. The only way it adds to insulatiion is by potentially reducing the moisture content in the brickwork. I doubt the product would cost more than £1,000 for your house.

https://www.pavingexpert.com/

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.persimmonhomes.com https://www.reviews.io/company-reviews/store/persimmonhomes https://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews141166.html

They look good. Can you let us know the window sizes and price, also when you bought them?

I can't see how you could tile it without the mitres, especially with a large format tile. It sounds like you will get paid.

You could hire a rough terrain pallet truck. Bear in mind it will be like pushing or pulling a small car.

Be aware that any outstanding enforcement action will be discoverable when you come to sell or even mortgage. If nobody complains you will not need to do anything.

Did she refuse to your face? What does she claim not to like?

As @Thorfun commented, a result of less than 4 and you should be asked to fit MVHR. Of course, BC won't bother even looking, as long as the as built SAP complies.

The end bearings onto the padstones look very generous but the bolted connection does not look very meaty. Get this looked at by the SE now.

MgO boards have really suffered in the last few years. For a while they seemed like a really cost effective alternative to fibre cement boards like Bluclad. While some may be OK, many were too good to be true and have now been discredited.

In England you can move in whenever you like unless there is a planning condition requiring certain works to be be done before occupation.

Make sure you have enough compound and buckets. Have one person mix and carry in the buckets of gear and another lay and smooth out. Trying to do both yourself is a mare.

One advantage of MVHR is that the ventilation in an airtight house is controlled. With trickle vents on a cold windy day there is lots of cold air entering and on a still day there may not sufficient air changes and the internal air may become stale.

I used Fermacell in a conversion of commercial to 6 flats. I would not use again. It is v. difficult and dusty to cut, sparky will hate you, not mould resistant, expensive, difficult to fix. For areas where you need extra strength, line with some OSB, then plasterboard and skim.

Funny that the staircase person did not pick it up. It looks doable to rectify, but a bit messy as it looks like you can remove no. 10 and trim back no. 11. Take your medicine now though.

There is quite a lot of controversy about claimed u values for multi foil type products but my main concern for this would be flammability. Even though flame should not penetrate your plasterboard I would not want to deal with an outbreak of fire in a concealed void. Get a sample and hold a match under it.

No mention of insulation in the link.

What on earth is that all about? The only time I have had any issues with PIR is inhaling the dust when cutting and installing. I find Rockwool even worse. The Intello does have a reassuring aesthetic though...

Why did you use the intello plus? You have foil faced PIR underneath. I thought Intello was mostly for vapour permeable and / or blown in insulation. Polythene would surely have been fine, or ali taped joins?

Will be OK. Make sure to plasterboard the shorter side first.

You can only use rainwater for limited non-potable applications, such as loo flush and washing machine. You will then have a third water system in the house. If it runs dry you will need to top it up. The water must not be left to stagnate. You will need to store it, treat it and pump it. I have looked into this and you are wasting your time and money.

My son is a building services engineer. He just does the electrical design and other engineers in the firm do mechanical stuff and thermal modelling. They do deal with housing but it would be for multi units, blocks and high rise, where there is more to consider. For a one-off house you are probably better off discussing with the plumber and electrician where you want sockets, rads, boiler etc. Your architect ought to be able to give some indicative locations. You can mark up a plan by hand. Get your MVHR firm to do the design for this. They will charge but it is worth doing. SAP calcs are very cheap and you can shop around for a quote. You need them for Building regs and warranty.