Mr Punter

You mentioned animal buildings. If these were stables the class q approach is dead. I think the current application is game over as well. A 4 acre site with road access is still worth good money. Can you get some industrial units on there? Also just saw this https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/86615171#/?channel=COM_BUY Near you and outline consent was won on appeal. It may not be of use but you could read up on it if you have not already.

Our DNO (UKPN) no longer accept the enclosure on timber legs, they want a kiosk concrete base. They also like a hockey stick up to the kiosk, not a gap like you have. We put in a switch fuse from the meter tails so we can isolate the consumer unit easily.

The desktop study will identify previous land use and know nearby contamination sources. I am not sure why your site attracted a full contamination condition unless it is previously developed land.

I think tile backer would work fine. Once you get it to a nice line it will be plain sailing (possibly). You could use a string line. You may want some more random stone to fill the bigger gaps or there will be too much mortar. I guess it is quite tricky to marry the factory produced copings with the rustic artisanal charm of the rubble wall but I have every faith in you.

Sealants are due a price rise of about 50%!

No it was fairly straightforward. Here is how it looks now with a couple of the grease filters removed:

If you want this to look uniform you could spend a while and cut cement board to the width of the wall, pack it to your desired line and fix it down, then some DPC slightly overhanging on a thin bed of mortar then your coping stones. As per @markc point up the gaps between. Not a quick job but you are starting with a sow's ear, so to speak.

With the detail you have you will probably need to bed the Marmox in mortar and that would be the best time to ensure it is level. Treated CLS softwood - either 38 x 89 or 38 x 140 is pretty standard for sole plates and considerably less costly than your ply.

I have a canopy extractor and have removed the motor but left the lights and the grease filters. I have a 200mm TD Silent inline fan mounted in a service room above the kitchen connected up with 150mm round ducting and spigots. Operated by a switch on the wall. It is very nice and quiet and very good at extracting.

In my experience the utility firms don't strictly enforce the separation distances where it is not practical. Water like to be 750mm deep, even though they have some of theirs at 400mm. Otherwise you can mostly do your own thing.

Are you doing two plots on this? I am currently doing 3 flats on a plot that is 140m2 new build so not even room for a skip or a portaloo.

I have found it is handy to select the timber in person so you can weed out the twisted and banana shaped ones. Some batches can be dreadful. The drawing needs twice as many studs.

Wait till the bricklayers get going! It is nice to have a bit of space though.

There is nothing particularly unusual about requesting plans, sections and method statements. Without these the potential impact of the works on the neighbours properties cannot be assessed. I agree with @ProDave that this looks a right pain to do. If the owners of C kick up a fuss about lack of access / egress during works, especially in emergency, it could really mess things up for you. If topography allows there should be no problem in the new property sharing the drainage.

I am not sure why it needs covering?

The outline applications often consist of a just site and location plan, marked up with the indicative location of the proposed dwellings. Have a look online at your LPA outline applications that have been approved and take your lead from these. I have done a couple of successful full applications in the past and I have no formal training in this.

You may find it easier to go with a big energy supplier to get any 3 phase meter fitted, then shop around to get the smart meter you are after.

That is good news. You really don't want to be messing around with stuff that has already been fitted.

I have heard of BC accepting an application of Silane/Siloxane masonry cream to the masonry above.

I am too jealous to offer any advice.

That is not acceptable. You cannot have the timber below ground. Why not raise it up on blockwork? You can still achieve a level threshold at the entrance(s).

I don't know why this should have any impact on mortgage, solicitors etc. You could revert to 2 x 1 and use a plinth stretcher on your brick courses to manage the transition. Check the cost, though. Could be expensive depending on the brick.

They have given their consent subject to the survey being undertaken at your expense. Perhaps they want your side surveyed as any structural issues may manifest there first. I imagine it would be sensible to survey both sides. I think if you start work without a schedule of condition you will be at risk of legal action.

A decent groundworker / machine operator will do this 4 times faster than you with no major cockups. It won't cost that much. Don't do it yourself. It will cost you a lot in machine hire, extra concrete, sleepless nights etc. I like the house. Are you actually wanting to use white mortar in the brickwork? It could work if you have a local supplier of white sand but otherwise very hard to achieve.