Mr Punter

Why does it need all this? If it is to let the place out, just get the bare minimum done. Get another couple of quotes.

I don't think the concrete will help unless it has a void under. May be less good than MOT, which at least will not crack.

Could you just have the plasterboard stop at the junction?

The outside pool was in the grounds of a Georgian villa. The indoor one was in the bottom floor of a 4 storey house in Brighton. Each worth around £2M.

I know a couple of people who have bought houses with pools. One had an outside one and filled it in as it was a hazard and would have put off future buyers. The other had an indoor pool in the basement and he meticulously refurbished it while refurbing the rest of the house. The finish and quality of the pool was excellent but when it came to selling the house it stuck on the market for ages.

You may find that the seller has already had one carried out. Really handy for setting out, ridge heights, context elevations etc. and will be supplied in CAD format. They don't just focus on topography but will include trees, boundary features, inspection chambers and neighbouring structures.

Yes, definitely have a structural engineer design the solution for this.

Sounds like filling in. Maybe would be OK if you set it back a bit from the front wall?

I have used CT1 instead of silicone for a worktop. It is a pain to finish nicely. It also discolours if you use clear or white.

Yes, @Dan F is doing this:

Cobra duct rod?

I had a garage with condensation on the inside of the roof. I removed the roof sheets and replaced with insulated metal sandwich panels. I also drilled out several vent holes in the rear wall to encourage air flow. No more dripping condensation.

Plus another for commercial epcs.

Can you screed it in sections of it with a bit 4 x 2?

I assume you just mean no mains gas? It is not thick enough if you have UFH and don't want to heat up the ground underneath.

A development opposite us had a lot of frameless glass balustrades to balconies. One of them shattered and it was clear it was not laminated. The contractor came back and replaced all of them with laminated / toughened.

Just build it without the chimneys as @SimonD has done.

+1 to @Iceverge's suggestion.

From the drawing, the pad looks about 1200 x 1200. The goal post design will do a lot of the work. The gate type, size, weight, soil type etc will all impact what is needed. Can you get the supplier to give you more of a steer?

I don't think you will easily chop down a PVC door without hitting metal reinforcement but I guess you could ask the manufacturer? If the workshop is outside building regs you can do what you like. Could you lose the lintel at the top and put in some metal angle to support the rafter?

And I bet his wife is loading out the floor beams 2 at a time!

You only own one property so this does not apply.

My brother had an orangery added to his house. Original house built on deep plies. Orangery on a raft. Clay soil. After a fairly short time the orangery doors seized. It has now been demolished as it risked causing structural damage to the house.

I would show the redline of the current plot and a further outline for the proposed new plot. You will need a location plan showing the plot in relation to nearby roads etc, as well as a site / block plan. a 1:2500 and a 1:500 should be OK.

Is this a painted finish? Some of the cement boards are very resilient and rot proof.